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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 5 days ago
Contact david goldstein


Point Rank: # 183
Total Points: 2,686
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has david goldstein been climbing?










Contributions


All 932 | Routes 160 | Areas 29 | Photos 87 | Page Improvments | Comments 216 | Posts 30 | Stars 381 | Ratings 29
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Lost World Butte Area : Lost World Butte : Pearly Gates (5.5 C1)
By: david goldstein When: Apr 3, 2014

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Comments: Very worth doing, consider making it a two pack with Tombstone.

That said, OP's rack recommendation is loony.
A #4 Camalot would protect the first crux, otherwise there is no pro
A medium nut can be placed after the first crux, at the start of the traverse, to protect the 2nd
A #6 Camalot might protect the second crux, otherwise there is no pro.
A .5 Camalot provides a decent anchor piece at the 2nd belay to supplement the detached block that people seem to sling as the primary/only... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park
By: david goldstein When: Jan 16, 2013

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Comments: Staunton State Park is not open to the public yet and prominently signed to that effect. It would be hard to sneak in as there are work crews and no neighborhood parking.

The current estimate for when the park will open is "May or June".


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Happy Submarine : The Undiscovered Country (5.11)
By: david goldstein When: Oct 4, 2012

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Comments: An excellent adventure climb to a rarely climbed ranked summit. Ours was probably the 2nd ascent of the formation.

Firming up the description:

The wall faces west.

P1: Start with a 30' low angle, shallow, right facing corner which takes small gear. Continue up chimney/slot and easy ground to a bolted anchor. ~50 5.9.

P2: The "short wide" section is actually about 100' of vertical #4 Camalots in a a somewhat sandy corner. The "long, low-angle crack" is about 50' long. Where the corne... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Curiosity (5.11) : Photo
By: david goldstein When: Jan 5, 2012

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Comments: Wonder how the no shirt program worked out for him when he hit the chimney.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : The Castle : Southeast Gully (5.4) : Photo
By: david goldstein When: Mar 2, 2011

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Comments: The SE gully may be clearly visible in this photo, but that doesn't make it obvious, nor does the fact that it's on the west side of the south face. In this photo, the SE gully is not the obvious, long, tree-studded weakness on the right but the foreshortened line of trees heading to a pronounced notch on the left side of the visible formation.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : The Bends (5.11c)
By: david goldstein When: Oct 11, 2010

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Comments: What Dougald said: great climb.

I'm not too dialed into the rating system these days, but pitch 1 seemed very soft for 11c. The crux entailed crystally tips jamming of the sort sometimes found at Lumpy Ridge. There are some similarities between the crux of P1 and Lumpy's Dead Boys Direct which is rated 11+ and is vastly harder than The Bends.


Location: International : Australia : Mount Arapiles : The Watchtower Faces : Watchtower Crack (5.8+)
By: david goldstein When: May 21, 2009

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Comments: While I disagree with RK's assertion about WC's rating, SS's comment is complete nonsense. I've never heard anyone else call WC less than Australian 16 (~YDS 5.8+), nor have I ever heard anyone say it was easy at that grade. Furthermore, if memory serves, I've done it in two pitches with a single 50M rope and anyone for whom the grade is a remote challenge would feel grossly underprotected relying on only fixed gear -- I don't think the first pitch has any while the crux remainder has perhaps... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : Left Wing (5.10c)
By: david goldstein When: Sep 22, 2008

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Comments: I'm pretty sure the bolt has been there for at least 20 years.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : The Spider's Web : Dacker Cracker (5.10c)
By: david goldstein When: Sep 16, 2008

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Comments: This route whose crux is close to the ground and strenuous to protect, is significantly harder than TR which is a better introduction to the crag.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : Upper East Face
By: david goldstein When: Aug 11, 2008

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Comments: This is a great place to while away half a day doing pitches in the 11+ range: Conan, Extreme and Erki Nool are all excellent and of comparable difficulty.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book
By: david goldstein When: Aug 9, 2008

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Comments: Brian, the route you're asking about sounds like Shinbuster.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Digital Divide (5.10d)
By: david goldstein When: Jul 16, 2008

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Comments: More like 1.5 stars. TB acurately describes the pitch's strengths and weaknesses.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Aquarium Wall : The Future of Life (5.11d)
By: david goldstein When: Jul 16, 2008

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Comments: This is a pretty darn good pitch, as are Nowhere Man and Huck Finn. Once again Bob D impresses with his ability to unearth gems from the unlikeliest of mines.


Location: CO : Carbondale Area : The Narrows : Narrows Proper : Snap, Crackle, Pop (5.10)
By: david goldstein When: Jul 8, 2008

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Comments: Move for move, the best thing I did in this area. Continuous, contemplative and steep climbing on solid rock.


Location: CO : Carbondale Area : The Narrows : Narrows Proper : The Village Idiot (5.11)
By: david goldstein When: Jul 8, 2008

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Comments: Doesn't quite justify the rave it receives in the 2008 Rifle guide, primarily due to a loose jug near the start of the lower crux. The upper half is pretty good and will improve with traffic and buffing.

I recommend puting a full length runner on the bolt to the right of the arete in order to keep the rope from running over the fairly sharp edge.


Location: CO : Carbondale Area : The Narrows : Narrows Proper : Chiroptophobia (5.10+)
By: david goldstein When: Jul 8, 2008

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Comments: If in addition to dealing with copious lichen and choss, you want to harass wildlife, this is the route for you. The first 30', through the roof are ok (though even there I stemmed off right to some very dubious wedged flakes), but then it goes downhill. The middle section of pure grunge and then you hit the promising looking upper cracks, only to hear piteous bleating coming from the best looking one so you'll probably end up detouring around this part.


Location: CO : Carbondale Area : The Narrows : The Watchtower
By: david goldstein When: Jul 8, 2008

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Comments: The locals have done a nice job of terracing the steep slopes at the base of this crag.


Location: CO : Carbondale Area : The Narrows : The Front Porch
By: david goldstein When: Jun 30, 2008

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Comments: The routes on the left left side offer some engaging climbing with thoughtful, intricate sequences, but they are quite squeezed -- on every pitch there are points where you wonder if you've drifted onto an adjacent climb.


Location: CO : Carbondale Area : The Narrows : Narrows Proper : Screwheads (5.12+)
By: david goldstein When: Jun 30, 2008

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Comments: Great route name -- some of us old timers get the allusion without the footnote.


Location: CO : Carbondale Area : The Narrows : Narrows Proper
By: david goldstein When: Jun 30, 2008

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Comments: The 2008 edition of the Rifle guidebook, which includes the Narrows, indicates a 70 meter rope is required to lower off some of the prouder lines in this area, including Village Idiot.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Threshold Of A Dream (5.11d)
By: david goldstein When: Jun 18, 2008

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Comments: Much more enjoyable now that the flake has been secured.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Pork Chop (5.9+ PG13)
By: david goldstein When: Jun 15, 2008

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Comments: My take: if you bring enough gear, this pitch does not merit the R rating. Crux #1, right at the start, can be protected with a decent grey TCU (#00?) though without a piece in this range, you'll be bouldering these slippery moves. The runout ground mentioned by Wayne Crill is so much easier than the cruxy sections of the route that an R is not warranted here. The rest of the climb has decent pro. That said, without a double set of #2, #3 and #4 Camalots, the pi... more >>


Location: International : Australia : Mount Arapiles
By: david goldstein When: Jun 10, 2008

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Comments: The late January / early February period is likely to be quite hot with highs consistently above 100. There is a good chance the flies would be out in force then too. You could get lucky and catch a cool spell, but the odds are against this.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The For Real Canyon : Is This For Real? (5.10)
By: david goldstein When: May 27, 2008

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Comments: There are two starts to this:

1. Start just about where you would for The Real Thing, boulder up a move to a roof/undercling, then traverse left until you can reach back right to a #3 Camalot crack which leads directly into the line.

2. Start about 4m left of the line, then boulder up onto a ramp which leads easily right to the corner. It is possible to place an RP and/or yellow Alien to protect the non-trivial move getting onto the ramp.

We did #2. I found it to be the crux of ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Animal Magnetism (5.11c)
By: david goldstein When: May 19, 2008

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Comments: This is one of my favorite pitches, trad or sport, in the whole canyon. The section from after the second crux to the anchors is as good as it gets. The fact that I can speak so highly of this pitch despite the fact that it has historically given me trouble is a testament to its quality.

Note on the rating: anyone below a certain height (185 cm??) will find AM's rating quite solid as the second crux will not involve a long reach to a great jug, but instead popping to the jug from a nubbin w... more >>


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