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Location: NH : Hounds Hump Ridge (Eaglet e... : The Flatiron : Little Porky (5.9)
By: David Ford When: Jul 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sykes calls this "Little Porky," not sure if it goes by any other names. A great route in a spectacular setting, in any case.
EDIT! I just re-read this section of the guidebook and realized that "Little Porky" is actually an entirely different 5.9 on the right side of this formation... apparently a short pitch on the buttress that forms the start that this route and Salt Packed share. Sorry for causing confusion. I guess we're back to not knowing what this climb is called, but it's still great.
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Location: WA : North Cascades : Boston Basin : Forbidden Peak : West Ridge (5.6 Mod. Snow)
By: David Ford When: Apr 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: +1 for using a 60m rope. We had a 50m rope and found that we had to do some significant shenanigans/downclimbing (on rock) on the descent of the couloir. That said, there are a lot of rap anchors in there and it's possible that one set of anchors is set for a 50m rope... but we didn't find it!
For reference, this was in the second week of September, 2011.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Beginner's Delight (5.4)
By: David Ford When: Jul 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I tried linking the first pitch with the last pitches of Friends and Lovers as Williams recommends, but found the climbing to be dirty, loose and not particularly well-protected. Better to stick with the normal route!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Classic (5.7)
By: David Ford When: Jul 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The second pitch is great climbing on wonderful rock. Definitely worth it to top out and walk off.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Bloody Mary (5.6)
By: David Ford When: May 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun to link the first pitch with the second pitch of Morning After (5.7) to the GT ledge.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Three Pines (5.3)
By: David Ford When: Aug 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route. Recommend doing at least one of the 5.6 variations on the third pitch to limit the otherwise mind-boggling rope drag. Alternatively, make another belay once you complete the traverse to the ledge. Communication with your second from the top of p3 may be difficult.
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