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Member Since: Oct 2, 2002
Last Visit: Jan 17, 2005
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has David Danforth been climbing?










Contributions


All 40 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 38 | Posts | Stars 1 | Ratings
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Face Value

5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c (43)

Sport, 1 pitch, 80'

CO : South Platte : ... : Elevenmile Dome

Aug 14, 2004

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Meat Wall : Le Specimen (5.12d)
By: David Danforth When: Jan 17, 2005

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Comments: I just want to applaud you guys (Matt, Dave, Lee) or anyone else who was involved in the rebolting. Communication. It's nice to see people communicating with the FA party about rebolting routes. It seems so often people go in and rebolt someone's work with little care of the effort the FA party put in to begin with. That's all. -cheers-


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Turret Dome : Schooldaze (5.5)
By: David Danforth When: Nov 24, 2004

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Comments: As mentioned above-exiting the crack left before the arch this is really fun-a good alternative if you dont have large pieces of gear. i also liked the 5.7 variation. tough, intimidating because of the exposure, but sweet. be careful with communication-it can be windy. -cheers-


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Twin Spires : Red Twin : Potholes (5.7)
By: David Danforth When: Aug 12, 2004

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Comments: Pat- Replacing pins on these routes came up as an issue when the Park and Rec wanted some routes to be made safer. At this point, it's more along the lines of placing bolts where there are runouts. E.g. bolts were placed between runouts on Finger Ramp, Potholes, and Son of Tedricks. Then, the anchors on top of West Point were replaced, because everybody was so sketched about rappelling off of those 2 pins. I think you're right. E.g. all the pins on Potholes look sandy, they're sticking out ... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Twin Spires : Red Twin : Potholes (5.7)
By: David Danforth When: Jul 30, 2004

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Comments: Pat- I agree. Didn't mean to seem confrontational. Guess it floats both ways.

Dan- I was up there this morning, and I don't think there was any chipping of the top moves, at least not that I noticed.

Also, Stewart Green and I put another link up on the chains up top to supplement the current worn link. So, the wearing of the links on TR's should be down to a minimum.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Twin Spires : Red Twin : Potholes (5.7)
By: David Danforth When: Jul 28, 2004

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Comments: Though, I am not a seasoned expert, I think I have a answers to those questions. First, Potholes used to have a pin there. Way back when, like many other Garden routes (e.g. Finger Ramp), the original pro fell out. Pins are also a little outdated. All new equipment is either expansion or glue in, pins degrade so much faster than any expansion bolt ever would. Glue-ins are harder to come by and more expensive than expansion bolts. And expansion bolts are much easier to place. I know in bot... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Southwest Face / Finger Fac... : Finger Ramp (5.7)
By: David Danforth When: Jul 16, 2004

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Comments: Everyone knows about the runout to that bolt, but there ain't one anymore. There is now a nice 5/8" glue in just above that pin scar in the middle of the runout, no longer anything to worry about with hitting the deck at the bottom. Enjoy. -cheers


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Southwest Face / Finger Fac... : Son of Tidricks (5.8)
By: David Danforth When: Jun 3, 2004

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Comments: I don't remember son of tedricks being very sandy....might have gotten some sand on it since i did it, but regardless...I agree with Brian. the route sketched me and my partner out and it is tougher than a 5.8 I liked it though. Zig zag your way across the rock and your're set. All the moves were fun and the 3 bolts were in pretty good shape. well worth it.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : North Face / North End : Triple Exposure (5.12c/d C1)
By: David Danforth When: May 29, 2004

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Comments: Hey. Just kidding! Drove by the other day and it looks like the nest is gone. If someone spoke up to the Garden people, thanks! Good luck!


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : North Face / North End : Triple Exposure (5.12c/d C1)
By: David Danforth When: May 9, 2004

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Comments: Don't get your hopes up if you got your sights set on tripple exposure this summer. My partner and i walked over yesterday afternoon to check it out. About 15 feet up there is a HUGE bee hive about 2 ft across right in the middle of the route. We looked at it and there is like no way you can get around this thing. I had disturbing images of a leader draggint the rope right through the middle of it while their belayer stands at the bottom shaking in fear....


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : West Side : West Point Crack (5.8 R)
By: David Danforth When: Apr 18, 2004

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Comments: About all these loose pitons around the beginning of P2. It's obvious, now, that these 2 pitons are getting too mank and are way too dangerous. I've been having a bunch of discussions with climber I know that think those 2 should be replaced with some 3/8" bolts that would make that section safer. It's up to the local climbers to decide if it's right and if it should be done. What do people think?


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Twin Spires : Red Twin : Potholes (5.7)
By: David Danforth When: Aug 18, 2003

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Comments: So I figure I'll actually talk about the route this time, although the tourists around the Spires are always abundant. Potholes cruises up the NE side of the red spire, passing by 4 bolts. They're old, but they aren't too bad. As said before, runout to the first bolt is kinda far, but the climbing ain't too bad. The last move at the top makes you think. Everyone does it differently. The rest of the climb is consistent. And that is what I like about the route. It isn't one of those that h... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : West Side : West Point Crack (5.8 R)
By: David Danforth When: Jul 13, 2003

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Comments: Good call, Stewart. I, like most people, love this route. Always interesting. Always fun. But every time I set on top of that damn pillar and look down at those bolts I flip out. 'Cause those things are flippin' old. They aren't anything that should deter anyone from sending up the route. But, one of these days they need to be replaced. -Cheers-


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Twin Spires : White Twin : South Ridge (5.6)
By: David Danforth When: Jul 13, 2003

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Comments: The last time I climbed the South Ridge I got up just above the second bolt where you have to step around to the left and kinda make that balance move where ya slide your right foot up very high and stand up on that little table top ledge just below the summit. For me, that was the "challenging" move of the route, thus exciting. However, the last time I climbed it, I noticed the move being substantially easier and that somebody had chopped a little foothold into the side of the rock taking aw... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Southwest Face / Finger Fac... : Lower Finger Traverse (5.7)
By: David Danforth When: Jun 23, 2003

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Comments: Very good climb. It's odd it doesn't get much more traffic 'cause the line is really nice. Starts up at the first huge eye bolt in the gully. 3 bolts. New compared to say the bolts on Tidricks or A Place in the Sun. They're very solid. The only thing about Fingers Traverse is that it doesn't go at a .7 anymore. Some flakes have broken off in the past yr or so. Adds to the fun. There is a flake just after the third bolt that is coming loose too, so watch out for that so you don't pull it... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : East Face : New Era (5.7)
By: David Danforth When: Jun 9, 2003

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Comments: Nice, nice climb. One of the better ones in the area I've done. I've only done the first 2 pitches 'cause of the walkoff and prefer rappelling the route which was convenient and a fun rap. The first pitch was pretty fun cruising up the extremely solid rock. Nice set of old anchors. What else is new? They're solid though. The route is kinda funky just above that, though. There aren't too many good places for pro. I don't know what there is deep in the crack to the climber's right, but th... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Mural Wall : Block Party (5.10b)
By: David Danforth When: May 21, 2003

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Comments: What do you mean by slippery?


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Montezuma Tower : North Ridge (5.7)
By: David Danforth When: May 8, 2003

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Comments: Yeah. last comment....i agree that the middle section is kinda like a ladder of rock and easy climbing. MOntezuma has been one of my favorite mod. routes in the Garden; ive done the route many times for a long time now, and as long as ive been climbing there, it has always been the same thing. So, my question for you, Chris, (or anyone) is if this section of the ridge was at anypoint of .7 or .8 rating to begin with?


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : East Side : Silver Spoon (5.5)
By: David Danforth When: Apr 30, 2003

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Comments: Good Point. You Win.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : East Side : Silver Spoon (5.5)
By: David Danforth When: Apr 29, 2003

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Comments: Moving the anchors is a good idea. However, I think it might be better to tuck them away in the corner of the slab as opposed to the other side of the gully (given that I understood the comment right). Being around the corner, they would be kind of hard to access and off the route, some. If they were on the slab that the route is actually on, I think it would make it easier. Then, you wouldn't have to worry about rap scars in the rock because you could just rap down the face. My 2 cents.-ch... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Montezuma Tower
By: David Danforth When: Feb 5, 2003

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Comments: Yeah, so the ridge can be done as a single pitch if you use a 60m. I did it with my partner like that, and it is doable. However, the drag gets really bad as you climb the last 20' or so. So, it is probably beter to do it in 2. Also, a cam/big tricam can be placed at the last move; it is worth taking it up to the top for that extra psyche help. Finally, the boulder at the bottom is getting pretty loose. If you stand at the base of the north end looking south, down the tower, the ... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Southwest Face / Finger Fac... : Finger Ramp (5.7)
By: David Danforth When: Jan 13, 2003

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Comments: There's something about that move under the finger thing that makes everyone freak out. You get up there and get upset with yourself 'cause you can't gather the balls to get over it. That's how I felt, and I feel better knowing I'm not the only one. I guess, the best thing to do is bust a "shut up and just do it!" Other than that, the rest of the route is a blast. The bottom is kinda runout-like to the first bolt. You can go right and put a small cam in the corner over there. Or, you can ... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Twin Spires : White Twin : South Ridge (5.6)
By: David Danforth When: Jan 13, 2003

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Comments: Agreed about bringing TRAD gear for the route. It's one of those things that if you think about it, you will probably want some gear, but if you just climb it, you'll be fine. I've done it many times, and I've placed gear a few times. The two difficult moves, like Sean said, are both near protection, so there's not much to worry about. The only worry is the dozens of tourists who will probably be watching you from below, so try and give them a good show. Cheers.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : East Face : Big Sky (5.7)
By: David Danforth When: Jan 13, 2003

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Comments: The first thing I said when I got to the route was "I wonder what the route to the left is." It looks pretty fun and I'm excited to see what it's like. As for big sky, it was a nice route. It was a little uneventful, but i think it would be good for a first lead or something. The route to the side is defenetely something to look into, though. Meanwhile, Big Sky is something worth tearing up. Cheers.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : West Face : Cowboy Boot Crack (5.6)
By: David Danforth When: Dec 30, 2002

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Comments: You can climb the leftern part of the tourist gully to get to the anchors. It's a good way to get up and set up a nice TR. When you get ot the base of the route, just right, there is a small gully next to the tourist gully. Head up the one next to Cowboy. its not too tough but a little exposed. Then, when you get to the top, its just an easy move over a horn and you are right above the anchors.


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