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Relaxing on the summit of the Petit Grepon on a sp...


Member Since: Feb 22, 2005
Last Visit: Sep 6, 2014
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Point Rank: # 9,357
Total Points: 26
Last Year: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 34 | Routes | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvements | Comments 16 | Posts 13 | Stars 2 | Ratings 1

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Diving Board (5.11a)
By: David Champion When: Jul 9, 2014

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Comments: CAUTION: On 6/14/14, while leading p3 (the 10c dihedral) of the Diving Board, I dislodged a substantial chockstone while using it for a hand hold. I estimate the chockstone moved from 6" to 12", but it did not come out. However, it is likely to come out if it is pulled on again. Trundling it would have been too dangerous, so it is likely still in there. Said chockstone is (or was, if it has fallen out since 6/14) near the base of the wide-ish crack at the top of the dihedral, just before exit... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Fiddler on the Roof (5.10+)
By: David Champion When: Jun 14, 2013

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Comments: All this blather about how pitch 3, 4 and 5 are [insert hyperbolic adjective here], and not a word—not a freaking word!—about pitch 6? Even the route description couldn't be more anti-climactic about pitch 6: “More face climbing, more bolts.” Ho-f*cking-hum. As if! Did the route submitter even climb pitch 6? Did everyone else rap after 4, or 5? Holy $hit!


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : Journey Home (5.10-)
By: David Champion When: May 9, 2012

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Comments: There's very little to say that hasn't already been said about this route here, so I will try to confine my comments to new, and hopefully useful, information.

There is a bomb-proof placement above the overlap (not the POS right at the start, the good one up higher) on p1 that will keep you out of the river if you fall before you reach the pegmatite dihedral. It's not at all obvious, because to find it, you have to do exactly what I did, which is to false-start the left-hand variation of p1 (d... more >>


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Mr. Clean (5.11a)
By: David Champion When: Sep 6, 2011

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Comments: Unless you lead comfortably a grade or two harder than this climb, you'd be best advised to not try to link Ps 1 and 2. After climbing it we watched two strong leaders try this, and just fail to reach the anchors. Rope weight/drag was undoubtedly a factor. The P1 belay is not uncomfortable--though not visible from the base there's an adequate ledge there.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Blackwalk (5.10b/c R)
By: David Champion When: Apr 29, 2009

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Comments: Blackwalk is, bar none, the scariest pitch I have ever led. I totally agree with Bill Wright's and Joe Collins' comments, both here and on Backtalk: Blackwalk has a harder crux, and harbors the potential for a 70+ footer if you fall before reaching the anchors. Backtalk is more sustained, yes, and it is run-out, but it is what I would call "normal" scary. Blackwalk is "weird" scary. It's got a weird, greasy, awkward crux, followed by 50 feet of greasy slopers without pro. It took all I had ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Jack The Ripper (5.9+ X)
By: David Champion When: May 21, 2008

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Comments: I agree with Leo. If this route doesn't get an X rating then I don't know what does. Last I checked the definition of an X-rated climb is one on which a fall risks severe injury or death. The first 40' of JTR clearly meets that definition.

I carefully downclimbed this thing from the lower crux after having placed two VERY marginal RPs (because I was too afraid to body-weight the RP for a lower). I can't imagine where previous posters were getting in cams--I certainly don't have any that sma... more >>


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Pepe y Lupe (Craig Luebben ... (5.10c)
By: David Champion When: Feb 21, 2008

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Comments: As of 2/19/2008 the condition of the rappel anchor at the top of P3 is as follows: There are two 3/8" bolts, only one of which is equipped with a hanger and quick link. Its twin appears to have been pulled out from the rock about 1", is bent downward, and has no hangar.

Rappel from the two-bolt anchor (chains with a snap link) atop P2 to avoid this dangerous anchor. You can reach the ground from here with a 70m rope. The last pitch--about 30' of 5.9--are not worth it. By the top of P2 you'... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Jackpot (5.11d)
By: David Champion When: Dec 27, 2007

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Comments: I'm confused by the description and comments here re: the grade. I onsighted this thing last October, and my send limit is middle 11. I pulled the little roof--right where the less than vertical section becomes overhanging--perhaps a little right of the first bolt above this transition. Then I traversed somewhat left on reachy, hard, but fairly positive, holds. I finished the climb entirely to the left of the bolt line, reaching right to clip each of the remaining bolts.

I see no explicit d... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall
By: David Champion When: Oct 5, 2007

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Comments: ALTERNATE DESCENT BETA FOR ROUTES FINISHING ON THE TOP OF THE SOUTH BUTTRESS

There are at least two classic routes--Anthill Direct and Redguard--that finish at the top of the south buttress of Redgarden Wall. The current guidebooks, and the beta on this site, all suggest that the east slabs are the ONLY viable descent from these, and other, routes that top out on the south buttress. This fact alone caused me to resolve some time ago never to climb Anthill Direct again, even though I consider ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress
By: David Champion When: Oct 5, 2007

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Comments: ALTERNATE DESCENT BETA FOR ROUTES FINISHING ON THE TOP OF THE SOUTH BUTTRESS...

There are at least two classic routes--Anthill Direct and Redguard--that finish at the top of the south buttress of Redgarden Wall. The current guidebooks, and the beta on this site, all suggest that the east slabs are the ONLY viable descent from these, and other, routes that top out on the south buttress. This fact alone caused me to resolve some time ago never to climb Anthill Direct again, even though I consid... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: David Champion When: Sep 13, 2007

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Comments: I finally led the first two pitches (as a single pitch) of Rosy today, and got them clean. I had been wanting to come back and lead these pitches since having followed both (as a single pitch) clean in June, 2006. The lead felt harder than the follow even though I have climbed, and improved, a good bit since 6/6. The initial moves before you clip the first bolt are 5.10a I've concluded since, when I followed them I could judge them objectively, and they felt like 5.10a. When I led them today... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Grandmother's Challenge (5.10c)
By: David Champion When: Aug 28, 2007

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Comments: Casey, thank you for validating my sanity! Ironically, we climbed DtD right after rapping from the GC tree (but no voices this time, presumably since no one was on GC at the time). Thinking about the orientation of the cracks on both climbs your explanation seems logical. The DtD crack that splits the left-facing side of the dihedral meets the GC crack on the other side of the arete. I wonder if you were to shine a bright light into one side you could see it from the other? This explanation... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Grandmother's Challenge (5.10c)
By: David Champion When: Aug 27, 2007

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Comments: Let me start with this: I do not believe in supernatural phenomena, nor am I particularly superstitious (the latter no more so than most climbers).

On Sunday I’m belaying my partner on the crux pitch of GC from just below the slings at the top of P1. After my partner clears the roof and disappears I begin to hear faint sounds coming from the wide crack at about chest level. My initial conclusion: pigeons, maybe bats (no surprise there). Then I start to hear metallic sounds, like those of g... more >>


Location: Dyneema sling failure under...
By: David Champion When: Oct 30, 2006

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Comments: Certainly it appears from the photo that the breakage, clean as it is, occurred under load (as previously noted here). One possibility apparently not yet considered: A falling object striking the loaded sling may have cut it, e.g. a falling rock. Under load, the cutting edge of this object would not have to have been particularly sharp, either. This possibility gains more weight, IMO, if a chemical analysis of the sling reveals no damaging chemical exposure, as with the recent gym rope incid... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wh... (5.8)
By: David Champion When: Jun 25, 2006

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Comments: Info on the east gully descent from Melvin's Wheel: If you rap the north anchors from the top of the third pitch (into the slot from which the east gully descent begins), scramble east down to the next rap anchor (slung rock), rap this anchor to the base of a tall free standing pinnacle (can't miss it), you will--as of June 24th, 2006--find a long section of orange webbing with two rap rings slung around a stout rock. WARNING: IF YOU RAP FROM THIS ANCHOR ON A 60M ROPE BE VERY CAREFUL--YOU WILL *... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Long John Wall (5.8)
By: David Champion When: Feb 22, 2005

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Comments: This is my first post to climbingboulder, though I have consulted it many times. Had to chuckle when I read the guidelines for posting a comment ("don't be a jerk").

Anyway, climbed this route on Sunday. I led the first pitch of Ignominity, heading left after the mid-point tree instead of right--as indicated by the white dotted line in the route photo on this site. My partner led P2. Thought something was most amiss until I found the JUG on the P2 roof. I led the last three in one fell swo... more >>