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David Benson


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Jan 17, 2005
Contact David Benson


Point Rank: # 4,588
Total Points: 89
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has David Benson been climbing?










Contributions


All 31 | Routes 6 | Areas | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 14 | Posts | Stars 7 | Ratings 1

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Hands of Destiny (5.13a)
By: David Benson When: Nov 16, 2003

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Comments: Great line, but I'm amazed that three different guidebook authors grade it so dramatically different. Hate to say it, but this is much closer to 12c than 13a.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Chiefshead Northwest Face : Birds of Fire (5.11a R)
By: David Benson When: Jul 14, 2003

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Comments: Just repeated this route this past weekend, cementing the vivid memories of why this is my all-time favorite alpine route and a contender for my overall favorite route.

Crossing the snow field in running shoes definitely puts you in the right frame of mind for the rest of the route! Run out and not looking forward to a fall. Unlike Crusher, I really like the first pitch, the face climbing being more interesting than the crack climbing on this pitch.

Pitch 4 - When I first lead this, I went sli... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Spear Me the Details (5.11d)
By: David Benson When: Jul 14, 2003

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Comments: Don't place too much faith in Rossiter's topo (or Gillette's either) for this excellent route. On the fourth pitch (crossing the hole) Rossiter doesn't show a bolt, but the bolt is where it says 10a on the topo (There's also two fixed pins). I ended up too far left and had to traverse to the belay (now just a single pin w/ slings). Fifth pitch (labeled 10c hand traverse) is really a mantle move. Seems everyone but the guidebook authors agrees that the crux of the sixth pitch (11d) is getting fro... more >>


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : North Face & Northwest Corn... : McCarthy's North Face (5.11a)
By: David Benson When: May 27, 2003

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Comments: Truely an excellent route.

P2 is about 125' to an arbitrary hanging belay, with well aged anchors. If anyone ever replaces the anchors, please, please move the anchors! This pitch ends in the middle of the crack, no features what so ever to stand on. There appears to be a natural small ledge about 15-20' higher (on easier ground).

Gear: The largest piece of gear that I placed on the 2nd pitch was a .5 camalot. Lots of stoppers (#1 - #7 rock, double or triples), 1 green alien, thr... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Little Mecca (5.12a/b)
By: David Benson When: May 5, 2003

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Comments: Actually there's a pretty good rest between the fourth and fifth bold (or is it 3rd & 4th?) before the crux sequence. Seems like there are multiple versions of the start. I started just below the first bolt (aka on the left), grabbed the mail slot below the bolt, then moved right. Double clutch off the left hand gaston to a good small hold above, then its pretty reasonable. Crux moves are thin -- think feet, and there's still a sting in the tail at the end. Enjoyable!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : The Apple Bites Back (5.11c)
By: David Benson When: May 5, 2003

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Comments: While "The Apple Bites Back" is a nice route, I wouldn't give it three stars. I think its a one star route, that's very long (by Shelf standards, especially the Contest Wall) so perhaps two stars. The route is fairly continuous, but no single moves feels like 11c (more like 11a to me).

The second bolt is poorly placed (typical of Shelf old-school). If you fell clipping the second bolt it could be ugly, but the moves are pretty easy.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Full House (5.12b/c)
By: David Benson When: Jan 31, 2003

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Comments: To me the obvious way to do this route is more like 11c/d, no where near the given 12b/c which seems contrived.

Don't read if you don't want the beta: From the horn on the right below the roof, reach up high and left w/ the left hand to the crips above the corner on your left. Match right heel to right hand, heel hook until both hands are higher. This avoids the open hand moves above the first overhang. Seemed very obvious to not utilize this hold. Could I be off route? Hard to argue since you'... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : The Slimy Spoon (5.8)
By: David Benson When: Oct 2, 2001

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Comments: I did something similar thinking I was on Slimy Spoon, regardless I don't think it deserves a star. Either hike/scramble up the lower ramp or if you're feeling frisky lead Super Arete.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : River Wall : River Dance (5.12b/c)
By: David Benson When: Sep 25, 2001

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Comments: To continue the controversy, I have to agree with Chris Archer. Yesterday my partner and I both lead ADK and RD. I thought RD was considerably easier (inspite of climbing ADK first), and would agree with the 12a move. Perhaps I was just having a really good day, but I thought the lower vertical section(12b indicated on topo) was pretty straight forward, 11d/12a.

My partner thought they were more similar in difficulty with the edge going to RD.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Super Slab (5.10+)
By: David Benson When: Sep 10, 2001

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Comments: Actually there are two protection possibilities. The first is as described (blue Alien) the second is about four feet higher, left on the arete about the height of the flake on the face. This finger pocket will take a well placed (but slightly tight) yellow Alien. With both pieces in place I felt this climb was reasonably well protected.

When Steve refers to the Doubious-Grafitti variation, I believe he is referring to the traditional third pitch. Although it is possible to link the second and ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : March of Dimes (5.10)
By: David Benson When: Jun 20, 2001

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Comments: The 11a alternate start is highly recommended. Start about six feet to the left of the 5.9 start at a thin crack which starts about 5 feet off the ground and runs for about 8 feet.

Step up and place small nuts as high as possible. Clipping directly to the nuts is recommended. Move left and up diagonally to the right to regain the top of the thin crack. From here move slightly right and continue with the remainder of the first pitch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Outer Space (5.10c R)
By: David Benson When: May 30, 2001

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Comments: The final pitch is most definitely NOT S. I place three good nuts before clipping the pin in the undercling. And thinking the S section might be coming later I sewed up the rest of the route.

I also believe the first pitch (10b) to be more technical than the last pitch (rated 10c). The last pitch is long and somewhat pumpy, but probably more like 10a/b than 10c.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Touch 'N' Go (5.8+)
By: David Benson When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: This route is great for perfecting your stopper placements. I place a 2.5 friend in the traverse and then nuts for the rest of the route. At the top I felt bad about the first cam!

[Definitely] solid (and then some) for the grade. Harder than quite a few Eldo 9s.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Break on Through (5.10b)
By: David Benson When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I agree that a larger piece (#3.5 or #4 Friend) make the first pitch much easier.

From the belay tree the second pitch is the large right facing dihedral to your left. Straight above you is the second pitch of Chianti.

After topping out, if you look to your right and down about 30-40 you should see the rappel anchors. Climb around the backside to the anchors. Rappel down to another set of anchors, then youll end up on a ledge by the start of the Unsaid. Traverse back towards the st... more >>