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Member Since: Aug 12, 2008
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact David Baltz

Point Rank: # 1,603
Total Points: 417
Last Year: 11
Last 30 Days: 10
10 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has David Baltz been climbing?










Contributions


All 113 | Routes 21 | Areas 3 | Photos 25 | Page Improvements | Comments 37 | Posts | Stars 20 | Ratings 7
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : East Slabs : Misty (5.8 R)
By: David Baltz When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: This used to be my favorite route at the East Slabs. I think it deserves at least 3 stars!

Bear Walk is an unlisted route a few yards to the right of Misty and is also a worthy route (5.8 PG-13 if I remember).

Also, The Drift was a very bold 5.10R slab around the corner to the left of Misty. Karl will have to add some description.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Fat City, Indian School : Upper Fat City Drainage : Free Cap'n (V5-6)
By: David Baltz When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: Paul Horak and I also did the face to the left via the flake and some palmy/slopers for the left hand. Probably V4.

The classic offwidth crack further left is V0/1 depending on whether it is done as a LB or OW. It has a real ankle-buster fall!


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Juan Tabo PG : Rock House Mantle Boulder : Rock House Corner (V4)
By: David Baltz When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: I believe this is a Gary Hicks FA, circa 1982.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound : Backside of Upper Mound/ Wo... : Wounded Knee arete (V3-4)
By: David Baltz When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: The FA on this one was Paul Horak if I remember, circa 1979.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound : Lower Mound (western cluste... : Africa (V2)
By: David Baltz When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: A layback with a verrrry high-step with the left foot! I'll claim the FA on this one, circa 1979.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound : Upper Mound (main upper clu... : The Murray Highball (V4)
By: David Baltz When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: I'll claim credit for the FA on this one. Circa 1984.
I would call it closer to V2.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound : Upper Mound (main upper clu... : The Manatee (V4-5)
By: David Baltz When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: "... and I sure hope Mike Head did it on-site - as opposed to, say, in his basement! "

Good catch Mark.
On-sight, not on-site.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound : Upper Mound (main upper clu... : Knob Problem (V3)
By: David Baltz When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: The boulder behind is off limits. Just use the knob.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound : Upper Mound (main upper clu... : Unknown (V5)
By: David Baltz When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: Paul Horak and I did this and another harder problem 4 feet to the right in the early '80s. I recall one more problem squeezed in between these and the V1 mantle problem on the face to the right.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Fat City, Indian School : Upper Fat City Drainage
By: David Baltz When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: This area has traditionally been called simply Embudo Canyon. It starts at the Rappel Wall entrance where the stream dries up, and ends at the Brachiation Rock. There are literally a couple hundred problems on both sides of the canyon, from the stream bed to high up the canyon sides.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Right Section : Thin Slice aka A Thin Slice... (5.10+)
By: David Baltz When: Jun 25, 2015

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Comments: The route used to be a very nice 5.9(R) back in 1980 before a crucial flake broke off on the starting move off the ground. I would concur with the 10+ rating now.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : Questa Dome : Jonny Questa (5.10 PG13)
By: David Baltz When: Mar 29, 2010

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Comments: After reviewing Paul Horak's topo and notes, I realized the spelling of the name was incorrect and have changed it (removing the 'h' from Johnny). The route was named after a 1960's cartoon character, Jonny Quest.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound : Lower Mound (western cluste... : Photo
By: David Baltz When: Mar 28, 2010

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Comments: Back in the late 70's, the left route was commonly referred to as the "tennis shoe problem" There is a V3-ish problem just to the right which goes up to a prominent quartz crystal pocket just over the lip on some very thin edging. I recall another problem just to the just to the right of the crystal problem but before you come to the crack (shown V2 in the photo).


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Middle Rock : Cowboy Bob's Chickenhead De... (5.10)
By: David Baltz When: Dec 13, 2009

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Comments: A classic route I do every time I'm at TP.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : Mountain Momma (5.10c)
By: David Baltz When: Dec 12, 2009

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Comments: Historical note: On the FA, Udall thought he was doing Mexican Breakfast Crack and he and VanWinckle started up the line around noon. Dirk followed the unprotected travers on P4 in the dark and the remainder of the climb was done by headlamp.

I much prefer to traverse left just above the crux overhang. Much cleaner and aesthetic.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Rainbow Dancer (5.11a R)
By: David Baltz When: Dec 12, 2009

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Comments: Hey Lee. I've done the approach from the bottom twice, and from the top twice. Either way, it takes close to two hours--which, admittedly shouldn't be part of the grade--but still something to consider. Descending the Knife Edge in the dark can take four hours. I could see it called either a IV or a V, depending on the strength of the team but choose to err on the side of caution. The bivi at the top of P5 is really a nice one for those that want to take a couple of days on something close t... more >>


Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : Questa Dome : Tostadas Comquesta (5.10 PG13)
By: David Baltz When: Dec 6, 2009

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Comments: If anyone wants to retro the original 1/4" bolts, feel free.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : Questa Dome : Another Pretty Face (5.11 PG13)
By: David Baltz When: Dec 6, 2009

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Comments: This one was definately ground up but I hear that the original mankey 1/4" bolts have been replaced. The only rap-bolted route on Questa Dome that I know of is Aero Questa, and on that, only the anchors were placed on rappel.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound : Upper Mound (main upper clu... : The Manatee (V4-5)
By: David Baltz When: Dec 5, 2009

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Comments: I may have been the first one to do this one--circa 1979. P. Horak and Mark Leonard also worked on it about the same time. As I recall, Mike Head did it on-sight.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Rainbow Dancer (5.11a R)
By: David Baltz When: Dec 1, 2009

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Comments: I've done Rainbow Dancer four times over the years, usually starting up the trail at 4 am and getting home at 10 pm. Bridgers and Prandoni took 2 days on the FA, which I am sure is where the Grade V originally came from. I would call it a Grade V due to the length *and* the approach. There are two ways to do the crux: face climb, or layback. The layback is probably 11a, while the alternative is 11c. I find the traverse on P5 to be harder, but I'm tall. On P7, make sure to traverse *across... more >>


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Northern ... : Rio Arriba County (Brazos, ... : Brazos Cliffs
By: David Baltz When: Dec 1, 2009

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Comments: I climbed in the Brazos quite a bit during the early '80s and never had any access issues. We always approached by parking at the Brazos Lodge (not Corkins) and walking up the road past condos till you could see the rock slides--staying high up on the slides to avoid Corkin's property. My understanding was that they were much more concerned with climbers bothering the fishermen who were their main clientel. Mark Leonard (another '80s) climbers) owned property on a road above the Brazos Lodge ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : Bastion Towers
By: David Baltz When: Nov 30, 2009

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Comments: We climbed an undocumented bolted route on the south side of Bastion Towers. There are actualy two bolted routes a few feet apart. We did the left route which went at about 10a and ended on a nice ledge with rap anchors (a single rope rap will barely reach). An offwidth crack led up from there. The route to the right looked very nice also but is probably a bit harder. Both routes are clip-ups.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Stronghold Dome : Rheen's Arete (5.7 R)
By: David Baltz When: Nov 30, 2009

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Comments: Rheen's 'Rete is very nice. I didn't find the 'R' rating and found good pro at least every 20 ft. From the bottom of the arete you can reach the short dihedral and get a couple of good pieces in. If you know how to cinch a runner on a chickenhead, the upper section protects also.

We also did the bolted line to the right of Rheen's Arete. Don't know what it's called, but it's a fine route (probably 10b) and quite steep in the crack start. The first pitch is mostly trad pro is 100 ft and end... more >>


Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : El Malpais : Photo
By: David Baltz When: Nov 11, 2009

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Comments: An expanse of typical Malpais sandstone with only one route. The route '1096' gains the ledge with the tree from the left (5.11c), continues up the flared chimney (5.9), then finishes up through the orange caprock to top out. 3 pitches.


Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : El Malpais : Photo
By: David Baltz When: Nov 10, 2009

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Comments: Mount Cosmic Debris. In spite of the name, it has three good routes.


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