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Member Since: Aug 12, 2008
Last Visit: Oct 26, 2010
Contact David Baltz


Point Rank: # 1,507
Total Points: 406
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
10 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 98 | Routes 21 | Areas 3 | Photos 25 | Page Improvements | Comments 26 | Posts | Stars 20 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : Questa Dome : Jonny Questa (5.10 PG13)
By: David Baltz When: Mar 29, 2010

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Comments: After reviewing Paul Horak's topo and notes, I realized the spelling of the name was incorrect and have changed it (removing the 'h' from Johnny). The route was named after a 1960's cartoon character, Jonny Quest.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound : Lower Mound (western cluste... : Photo
By: David Baltz When: Mar 28, 2010

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Comments: Back in the late 70's, the left route was commonly referred to as the "tennis shoe problem" There is a V3-ish problem just to the right which goes up to a prominent quartz crystal pocket just over the lip on some very thin edging. I recall another problem just to the just to the right of the crystal problem but before you come to the crack (shown V2 in the photo).


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Middle Rock : Cowboy Bob's Chickenhead De... (5.10)
By: David Baltz When: Dec 13, 2009

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Comments: A classic route I do every time I'm at TP.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : Mountain Momma (5.10c)
By: David Baltz When: Dec 12, 2009

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Comments: Historical note: On the FA, Udall thought he was doing Mexican Breakfast Crack and he and VanWinckle started up the line around noon. Dirk followed the unprotected travers on P4 in the dark and the remainder of the climb was done by headlamp.

I much prefer to traverse left just above the crux overhang. Much cleaner and aesthetic.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Rainbow Dancer (5.11a R)
By: David Baltz When: Dec 12, 2009

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Comments: Hey Lee. I've done the approach from the bottom twice, and from the top twice. Either way, it takes close to two hours--which, admittedly shouldn't be part of the grade--but still something to consider. Descending the Knife Edge in the dark can take four hours. I could see it called either a IV or a V, depending on the strength of the team but choose to err on the side of caution. The bivi at the top of P5 is really a nice one for those that want to take a couple of days on something close t... more >>


Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : Questa Dome : Tostadas Comquesta (5.10 PG13)
By: David Baltz When: Dec 6, 2009

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Comments: If anyone wants to retro the original 1/4" bolts, feel free.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : Questa Dome : Another Pretty Face (5.11 PG13)
By: David Baltz When: Dec 6, 2009

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Comments: This one was definately ground up but I hear that the original mankey 1/4" bolts have been replaced. The only rap-bolted route on Questa Dome that I know of is Aero Questa, and on that, only the anchors were placed on rappel.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound : Upper Mound (main upper clu... : The Manatee (V4-5)
By: David Baltz When: Dec 5, 2009

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Comments: I may have been the first one to do this one--circa 1979. P. Horak and Mark Leonard also worked on it about the same time. As I recall, Mike Head did it on-site.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Rainbow Dancer (5.11a R)
By: David Baltz When: Dec 1, 2009

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Comments: I've done Rainbow Dancer four times over the years, usually starting up the trail at 4 am and getting home at 10 pm. Bridgers and Prandoni took 2 days on the FA, which I am sure is where the Grade V originally came from. I would call it a Grade V due to the length *and* the approach. There are two ways to do the crux: face climb, or layback. The layback is probably 11a, while the alternative is 11c. I find the traverse on P5 to be harder, but I'm tall. On P7, make sure to traverse *across... more >>


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Northern ... : Rio Arriba County (Brazos, ... : Brazos Cliffs
By: David Baltz When: Dec 1, 2009

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Comments: I climbed in the Brazos quite a bit during the early '80s and never had any access issues. We always approached by parking at the Brazos Lodge (not Corkins) and walking up the road past condos till you could see the rock slides--staying high up on the slides to avoid Corkin's property. My understanding was that they were much more concerned with climbers bothering the fishermen who were their main clientel. Mark Leonard (another '80s) climbers) owned property on a road above the Brazos Lodge ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : Bastion Towers
By: David Baltz When: Nov 30, 2009

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Comments: We climbed an undocumented bolted route on the south side of Bastion Towers. There are actualy two bolted routes a few feet apart. We did the left route which went at about 10a and ended on a nice ledge with rap anchors (a single rope rap will barely reach). An offwidth crack led up from there. The route to the right looked very nice also but is probably a bit harder. Both routes are clip-ups.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Stronghold Dome : Rheen's Arete (5.7 R)
By: David Baltz When: Nov 30, 2009

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Comments: Rheen's 'Rete is very nice. I didn't find the 'R' rating and found good pro at least every 20 ft. From the bottom of the arete you can reach the short dihedral and get a couple of good pieces in. If you know how to cinch a runner on a chickenhead, the upper section protects also.

We also did the bolted line to the right of Rheen's Arete. Don't know what it's called, but it's a fine route (probably 10b) and quite steep in the crack start. The first pitch is mostly trad pro is 100 ft and end... more >>


Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : El Malpais : Photo
By: David Baltz When: Nov 11, 2009

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Comments: An expanse of typical Malpais sandstone with only one route. The route '1096' gains the ledge with the tree from the left (5.11c), continues up the flared chimney (5.9), then finishes up through the orange caprock to top out. 3 pitches.


Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : El Malpais : Photo
By: David Baltz When: Nov 10, 2009

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Comments: Mount Cosmic Debris. In spite of the name, it has three good routes.


Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : El Malpais : Photo
By: David Baltz When: Nov 10, 2009

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Comments: The Stensuous Curve (5.11- R) was led by Mark Dalen in 1977 and is still unrepeated.


Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : El Malpais : Crack of Heraclitus (5.12- R)
By: David Baltz When: Nov 10, 2009

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Comments: Yes, the crux of Heraclitus is a boulder problem off the ground. I'd call it V4/5 and spent months working it before finally figuring it out. The moves above the lip of the big roof are probably 10+ and poorly protected for about 15 ft. Embick aided them--Horak freed it.

I hope to add a lot of additional routes and photos over the next few months.


Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : El Malpais : Surfin' the Turf (5.7) : Photo
By: David Baltz When: Nov 9, 2009

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Comments: Surfin' the Turf ascends the parallel chimney system left of the dead pine.


Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : El Malpais : Rotten Peach (5.8 R) : Photo
By: David Baltz When: Nov 9, 2009

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Comments: The route ascends the prominent right-facing dihedral.


Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : El Malpais : Photo
By: David Baltz When: Nov 9, 2009

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Comments: Looking south on Hwy 117. The mega-classic Crack of Heraclitus (5.12c) is in the distance.


Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : El Malpais : Photo
By: David Baltz When: Nov 9, 2009

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Comments: This view illustrates the locations of major climbs and areas along Hwy 117. Hopefully it will get you close enough that you can spot the route.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Forest Lawn (5.9+)
By: David Baltz When: Sep 20, 2008

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Comments: Pair-o-Grins is the much-preferred finish and is highly recommended, but should have an "R" rating (5.9 easing to 5.6) and requires mental preparedness. I found one bolt in the 100 ft above first few protecting the crux section. A 60m rope would be real nice as I had to stretch my 50m a lot to tie off some chickenheads. We did two raps of the east face in fading light--dropping 10 feet off the end of our 50m ropes into the gully at the bottom. Again, 60m ropes would be real nice.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Cochise Dome (What's My Lin... : Let's Make a Deal (5.11)
By: David Baltz When: Sep 20, 2008

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Comments: A devious 5.9 pitch leads up to the actual start on a ledge near the first bolts. This is an excellent thin face start to WML. The "R" section is well above the hard stuff, but still a deck-out potential.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : Questa Dome : Jonny Questa (5.10 PG13)
By: David Baltz When: Aug 14, 2008

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Comments: The original first pitch belayed at the tree sticking out of the handcrack in the right face of the dihedral. The second pitch continued up the handcrack to turn the arete and get onto an nice slab. It does not go up the dihedral and out left under the roof. Once on the slab, continue upward to a low roof and step over it onto a polished vertical quartz dike which is one of the more exciting sections.

An alternate (and preferable) start was done about a year after the FA by Mike Head and mys... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Cochiti Mesa : South Cliffband : The Prow (5.11b/c)
By: David Baltz When: Aug 14, 2008

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Comments: This route was retro-bolted. Paul Horak originally led it on natural pro with one out pin on the prow itself. I was a little ticked that bolts were placed on the lower slab as it protects well with natural pro. Still, it is a stellar route!


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Cochiti Mesa : North Cliffband : Open Mouth Syndrome (OMS) (5.11b/c)
By: David Baltz When: Aug 14, 2008

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Comments: It's definitely a four-star route! Matthew mentions that the holds were "manufactured," which I don't believe is completely accurate. There is a difference between 'cleaning' and 'chipping.' My understanding is that the pockets were already there, and Jean just cleaned some soft ash out of them (perhaps a little too aggressively in the opinion of some).


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