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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Party Time! (5.9)
By: Dave Pilot When: Mar 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climb. Started up it thinking it was a sport climb and had to lower the rope to get gear for the top. It's weird as a mixed climb. None of the bolts are really necessary as there is adequate gear the whole way up. Should either be all bolts or no bolts (IMO).
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Tampon (5.7 R)
By: Dave Pilot When: Oct 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The pro is small but it seemed adequate. One needs a good rack of micro stoppers. There seemed to be a good placement at every good stance and I never felt run out. However, that said, if you're not very confident and capable at the grade, TR it.
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Location: International : Thailand : Photo
By: Dave Pilot When: Oct 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ahhh, this brings back memories. Must go back!
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : Zorro Area : Huggys Pull-up (5.8)
By: Dave Pilot When: Sep 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA was Rick Thompson ca. 2003 or 2004
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Water Slabs : Mes Amis (5.9)
By: Dave Pilot When: Jul 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed, somewhat of a sandbag. Plenty of bolts, however, makes this one a very safe lead.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Huston Crack (5.8+)
By: Dave Pilot When: Jul 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the quintessential wide crack primer. You can even get a couple of chicken wings in towards the top. Resist the urge to use facial features. I left the #4 Camalot in the car since I was just planning to do Empor. Luckily I had #3.5, #3, and #2 Camalots and a Trango MaxCam about the same size as the #3.5. The #2 worked well in a horizontal crack toward the top of the wide section and protected the weird mantel move getting out of the wide crack. E... more >>
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Energy Before Ecstasy (5.10a/b)
By: Dave Pilot When: May 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't care what you all think, this is a fun moderate roof with a little weird traversing back and forth above. I liked it. The route to the left is not 11c, that's around the corner on the obvious blade of rock.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : jasonbecker.com (5.10-)
By: Dave Pilot When: May 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really fun with wonderful pockets, a really cool finish, and miles from the crowds at Cactus Cliff!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Sands of Iwo Jima (5.11c/d)
By: Dave Pilot When: May 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beautiful! Exposed! Sequential. Hard. Wish it was twice as long. Do it!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Vestibule : Psychatomic (5.12d)
By: Dave Pilot When: Jan 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bullet the Blue Sky is an awesome climb, but it's welded tuff rather than granite. So that means Psychatomic IS the best granite sport climb in the universe.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : New Beginnings (5.11c)
By: Dave Pilot When: Oct 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Funny that nobody mentions that the first bolt is a bit high off the ground and the climbing to it is nontrivial. If you don't want to blow it and tumble another 50' down to the base of Global Gorilla, I recommend (much to my dismay) that one consider stick clipping the first bolt. The route is a good alternative to Global Gorilla if somebody is on it. Be careful if you blow it clipping the anchors; potential ankle sprain geometry. What were those guys thinking? This is Boulder Ca... more >>
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Greg's Cliff : Baba Fats (5.11a)
By: Dave Pilot When: Aug 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Undoubtedly one of the coolest routes anywhere! Do it! BTW, I couldn't help noticing a couple of old pitons on this route. Anyone know the true FA history?
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Rock Garden : Buffalo Chips (5.9)
By: Dave Pilot When: Jun 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not a lot of fun. One star is generous. But one must warm up on something.
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Rock Garden : Delusions of Grandeur (5.12c)
By: Dave Pilot When: Jun 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Richard's description is right on. My son was lured onto this one due to the early promises of overhanging thuggery. After the third bolt, he was shut down as the climbing got harder and thinner before it transitioned onto the slab. I had to finish the climb to retrieve my draws and found it to be a bit runout and fairly thin and technical in spots above the "crux". Still, it's a worthy endeavor.
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Rock Garden : Fine Young Cannibals (5.11b)
By: Dave Pilot When: Jun 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of the best routes in Penitente at the grade! Long route with sustained climbing with a wide variety of moves. It's worth the walk to the Rock Garden. Do it!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Culp-Bossier (5.8+)
By: Dave Pilot When: Sep 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I love this route! I agree that it's the best moderate in the Park, better than the Petit Grepon. The route's still in for the brave of heart. Sideways snow doesn't stick. Thunder and lightning in the fall rarely strike the ground. The black rock is still sticky when it's wet; the white rock is not. The numbness in your feet will go away with time.
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