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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Milk Dreams (5.10a)
By: Dave Holliday When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: My partner and I climbed this right before Luke and Lenny did. We didn't have two ropes and left a couple of pieces of cord around a horn at the top of the first pitch. We noted the "death block", but we were able to rappel with the rope to the left and underneath it. If I climb this again in the near future, I'll bring two ropes for the rappel and clean the bail cord we placed.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Rhadamanthus (5.10a)
By: Dave Holliday When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: This is well worth doing if other routes in the area are occupied. The right wall of the dihedral has amazing friction. This might be a good one for those looking to break into Eldo 10s.
There is no rappel setup on the big tree that Tony mentioned. We walked off climber's left up and over some loose blocks and then casually strolled down to the base of Xanadu.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - top to Xanadu : Chock Suey (5.10c)
By: Dave Holliday When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is this a picture of Chock Suey? We climbed it recently and although it fits the description in the new guidebook and here, it didn't feel close to 10c. We estimated 5.9 or so. Maybe we were just having a low gravity day.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Wall of Confusion : Desert Pickle (5.11c) : Photo
By: Dave Holliday When: Nov 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Daniel Trugman wrote: Is he grabbing the draw in the last photo? No send for him!
Does this answer your question, Chuckles?
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Location: AZ : Grand Canyon National Park : Zoroaster - NE Arete (5.9)
By: Dave Holliday When: Oct 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is this considered a grade IV round-trip from Phantom Ranch?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Emergency Brake (5.9+)
By: Dave Holliday When: Oct 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolts appear to have been upgraded to modern hardware. I was looking at them from the ground today and they appear relatively new. If I get a chance to climb the route and verify the new hardware (or if someone else happens to go up there) then I'll update the route description above.
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Location: CO : Eldorado Canyon Guide Books...
By: Dave Holliday When: Oct 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yay!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Superguide (5.9)
By: Dave Holliday When: Oct 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's a great kneebar at the crux overhang.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : The Horse (5.11a)
By: Dave Holliday When: Sep 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Comparing this to other trad routes in the canyon, I'd call this on the easier side of 10. I used gear up to a 0.5 Camalot after the bolt. Worth doing if you're in the area.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Green Mountain Pinnacle : Death and Disfiguration (5.10)
By: Dave Holliday When: Sep 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One might consider bringing a hex and placing it at the lip; not necessarily for protection but rather to keep the rope from running over the cams after you turn the lip of the roof. Bringing an extra #2 Camalot or two wouldn't hurt.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: Dave Holliday When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: An application can be made directly to the park (without having to go through the Fixed Hardware Review Committee procedures) to upgrade rappel anchors and bolts with modern hardware.
I don't own a drill or have the expertise to do the job right, but I'd be glad to help someone who does.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Final Exam (5.11a)
By: Dave Holliday When: Jul 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does this have solid gear at the crux? I've looked at it several times from the ground and it appears to be fun.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Cathedral Wall : Tourist Tragedy (5.9)
By: Dave Holliday When: Jul 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: My partner and I climbed this yesterday and we used the descent suggested by A.C. (scramble up to the notch and go skier's left to the Andrews Glacier/Creek trail). This descent is quite civilized and only took us an hour to get back to our packs. We stashed them at the Andrews Creek trail turnoff on the hike in so we wouldn't have to retrace steps back to the base of the route.
The first pitch is a bit sporty but the rest of the route is good. If you're solid on 5.9, this would be a good intro... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : The Other One (5.11a)
By: Dave Holliday When: Jul 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone know the name and rating of the bolted route directly to the left of this one? It starts out by climbing some rather questionable and licheny rock to a ledge. The difficulties start soon thereafter and don't let up.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : West Face (5.9)
By: Dave Holliday When: Jun 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Am I the only one who finds this noticeably harder than Cosmosis?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Sunstar (5.9 R)
By: Dave Holliday When: Jun 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this with a friend recently and we did two variations that might interest people. First, it was unclear from the Rossiter guide where to cut left after the bulges in the dihedral. We finally chose to go left at the bulge with the wide crack (I believe that's the second bulge). That led to a finger crack that was well-protected but slightly harder than the crux on the second pitch (mid to hard 9). We wandered up some chossy rock towards the big tree and then cut back to the right for a bela... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : Momentus Fist Trainer (5.11-)
By: Dave Holliday When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This felt considerably easier than Momentum Operator so I think calling it 11- is a bit generous; mid 10 might be more like it. I used exactly one fist jam on this route; I could see this being harder if your hands are on the smaller side.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : Sister Morphine (5.9)
By: Dave Holliday When: Mar 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route now has its own bolted rappel anchor. (Edit: it was placed there with park approval to replace a tree rappel.)
There's a really good blue Alien that can be placed while standing on the pillar. It's a little to the right of the obvious, small stopper placement, but it's not hard to find.
The small tree at the base of the pillar is gone. I talked to a guy in the area today who said it was there last week. It appears to have been cut down.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Verschneidung ... : Wishbone (5.11b/c PG13)
By: Dave Holliday When: Jan 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just out of curiosity, how far is it from the last bolt to the anchor?
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Wall : Main Wall : City Park (5.13d)
By: Dave Holliday When: Dec 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice writeup but I believe Hugh Herr is a double amputee and not a paraplegic.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Stayin' Alive (5.10a)
By: Dave Holliday When: Jun 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Trad climbers can skip some of the bolts and place gear on the route if they so desire."
Yup. The second pitch is pretty safe as a gear route. The only bolt I clipped was (I think) the fourth. It was just to the right of a hollow sounding flake (not the "tooth"). There's a lot of solid gear on the pitch.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty
By: Dave Holliday When: May 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If your idea of a great way to start the day is to get completely soaked with fast-running, freezing-cold water, then by all means use the tyrolean to get to Sleeping Beauty right now. The line isn't so tight (I discovered this to my chagrin on my way over) and of course the water is running really high. For some reason, I got even more soaked (like completely) on the way back over to the road side. We climbed at Animal World instead.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Solar Flare (5.10-)
By: Dave Holliday When: Mar 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you want to get a lot more vertical after doing this route, you can link this to Sunspot Ridge: continue up about 100 feet to a large flat ledge and then traverse left to another corner system. I think we did seven more pitches after that to merge in with the top of Solar Slab. Most of the climbing is easy but there's a very fun low-angle pitch with varnished plates and a runout 5.7 corner right after that. There's a saddle/shoulder sort of thing along the way where great views can be had of ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Reggae (5.8)
By: Dave Holliday When: Aug 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are bats living behind the flake at the crux. They seemed a little perturbed when I got up there.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head
By: Dave Holliday When: May 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: FYI, Rampart Range Road is closed as of May 8 so getting to Devil's Head might be problematic. It looks like there was a ton of recent snow up there.
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