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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Keyhole Rock : Breeze Crack (5.6) By: Dave G When: May 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Led starting at ledge 20' up. The first 20' above the ground looked fairly easy but difficult to protect w/o first setting a piece above the ledge (easy to do). I ran it out a bit up to the narrow flake which appears to be held in place by mud. I actually stradled the top of the narrow flake (no style points). Pretty easy but sandy and muddy above and left of the flake. Anchored on two small trees to belay Rich up who climbed from the ground. Used just 3 medium cams. Walked off to the sou... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : Lance (5.6) By: Dave G When: May 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Led today with Rich. A fun climb that doesn't look like it gets much traffic. An early move around an overhanging flake is the crux, followed by a fun chimney mid section and easy scramble at the top. Protects well with a standard rack. I should have used a sling below the crux and belayed Rich up just above the crux as our rope got jammed. Watch out for lots of loose crap, especially in the chimney. I pulled off a hand hold. Used most of my new 70m rope for the fun near-vertical rappel o... more >>
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Black Slabbeth (5.10a) By: Dave G When: Nov 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I totally screwed up this route on lead, bypassing one bolt on the right midway up and then missing the chains and climbing onto the ledge about 8 feet above the chains. Not a good idea as there is lots of loose crap on top. I sent a couple of rocks down toward my belayer and must have missed the 5.10 section.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Gobble Up (5.8) By: Dave G When: Nov 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I top roped Gobble Up after leading Left Handed, following on Ragger Bager, and an aborted attempt to lead Gobble Up. I found this to be a tough sustained 5.8/5.8+ definitely harder than Ragger Bagger, and much harder than Left Handed. A great crack climb!
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Montezuma Tower : North Ridge (5.7) By: Dave G When: Jul 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: We rapped off MT 3 weeks ago with no issues. I either put my rope through two eyebolts or two bolted hangers and had no problems pulling the rope. I'm pretty sure I didn't use the chains although I have elsewhere in the Garden.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Elevenmile Dome : The Overleaf (5.8) By: Dave G When: Jun 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: My partner Tom led over the roof with no problems, however I couldn't get my sorry butt up it even with Tom pulling on the rope. Pulling myself up with nothing for my legs definitely seemed harder than 5.8 to me. Tom didn't find any anchors near the roof and climbed to the anchors at the top of the route. With communication issues and a cam not far above the roof, going around to the right was not an option for me. I anchored about 15 feet below the roof while Tom rappeled down to me from th... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Elevenmile Dome : Moby Grape (5.7) By: Dave G When: Jun 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found the first pitch to be a nice climb on the easy side of 5.7. The second pitch wasn't all that interesting and I wish we had just rappelled down and using the time on another route.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : Silver Cascade Slab aka Hes... : Reality Check (5.8) By: Dave G When: Jun 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rich and I had a great time on Reality Check today. We each led and followed once, finding the route to be near the limit of our current abilities, especially when it comes to foot work. This is definitely a trust your feet route as there isn't much for your hands. I hung on a few QDs on my lead. On my follow I slid down onto the rope twice near bolt #3 but didn't hang on anything else. The route is very well protected with 9 bolts and I appreciated every one of them (I'm a beached wh... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Three Graces : The Window (5.2) By: Dave G When: Jun 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A funky and fun little climb that we did today after finishing Montezuma's Tower. I thought the most difficult move was climbing up the first hump before the window. We were not able to protect the traverse after the window, but it was easy with good holds. There were two very solid large bolts on top with a chain between them for rappeling.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : West Face (The Pinnacle Wes... : Crack Parallel (5.7) By: Dave G When: May 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great 2-pitch route! I followed on both pitches today, but would have been reasonably comfortable (as an intermediate climber) leading this one. The protection is good up to the top with two solid bolts and chains at the belay station. I started right of the initial bulge at the beginning of the first pitch while our leader climbed around the left side of the bulge. The right seemed pretty straightforward with good holds, the opportunity to use the wall above me, and less exposure ... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Pinnacle : The Army Route (5.5) By: Dave G When: May 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Had a great time climbing The Army Route today. As relatively new trad climbers, my partner and I climbed it in 3 pitches with a standard rack and had no problems. I think our start on the 2nd pitch, straight up from the large eye-bolt, was wrong as this was the only section we climbed that was clearly tougher than 5.5. There were good bolts at our two belay stations, but we used plenty of cams to protect. The end of the last pitch is a blast on great rock with some bomber holds.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Honky Jam Ass Crack (5.7) By: Dave G When: May 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had a great time on Honky Jam and Left Hand today. Honky Jam was my first 5.7 lead climb and first primarily crack climb. The crack made for excellent cam placements so I felt pretty secure on lead. I was stuck for a while at the crux near the top, but finally trusted my hand jams and made it up a good fist jam. On top we set up a top rope (using 2 20-foot slings around some boulders) above Left Hand and then climbed that twice. Left Hand is a great crack climb. It may have been because ... more >>
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