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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : George's Tree (5.9)
By: Dave Chenault When: Dec 2, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do the whole route! The best part of the first pitch is past the bolts, as mentioned, and will spank you if you can't jam well. The second pitch leads up more cracks, and another pitch up good cracks leads to the ledge 2/3s up the wall. From there, follow the most obvious cracks to the top. Route finding on the upper pitches isn't as bad as it might appear, the cracks are continuous and the easy way is generally obvious. The whole route protects very well. I used the doubles of 6-10 stoppe... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock : The Staircase (5.5)
By: Dave Chenault When: Dec 2, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: The "5.8 offwidth" variation isn't much of either, and is highly recommended. One of the best beginner routes in the state. It makes trad leading as mindless as it gets. Remove large nut, throw in crack, repeat.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Elevenmile Dome : Happy Trails (5.6)
By: Dave Chenault When: Dec 2, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: Disclaimer: unless you are a honed South Platte slabmaster this will feel a bit harder than 5.6. You can bring gear, but the only places it goes are the really easy sections where you won't be thinking about it anyway. A good climb.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Finger Ramp (5.7)
By: Dave Chenault When: Nov 28, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is variation (or a separate route?) to this which begins about 20 feet to the right. It climbs the 'inside' of the ramp using all natural gear, roughly paralleling the bolted line, and meeting just before the third bolt. There is some loose rock, but nothing bad, and the gear is quite good.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : New Era (5.7)
By: Dave Chenault When: Nov 28, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: I give this rap beta because the decent mentioned above is quite tricky. There may be an easier way, but the way I have done it requires some easy 5th downclimbing which could well scare an inexperienced climber. Since this is a great moderate, it is good to know that an alternate descent exists.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : New Era (5.7)
By: Dave Chenault When: Nov 28, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: The two drilled pins mentioned as the anchor mid-pitch 1 are good for drilled angles, but very old ring angle pitons. There is okay gear on the last pitch, but it is very tricky to find.If one leaves slings around the fridge-sized knob on the summit, a rap can be made to the anchors at the top of the secodn pitch of Diesel and Dust, and then another to the first anchors and to the ground. One 60 metre will get you down this.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Onion Creek : The Hindu : Maverick (5.9 C2)
By: Dave Chenault When: Nov 28, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: Way cool. The first pitch was a good first aid lead for me, fith perfect rock in the upper seam. The difficult bit of p3 is very short, two brief bulges that could probably be aided. The first is a bit of bridging to a mantel, and the second a high=step to a mantel. Good gear for both. Weirdly, the rock on this route get worse the higher you go. "The desert is very phallic." -my friend Mona J., and this is the most phallic of all desert rocks when viewed from the parking lot.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: Dave Chenault When: Nov 28, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing route, justifiably popular. The only real loose rock is on the 5.easy start of the first pitch and at places in the chimney (which is amazing, best chimney I've done, and more like 5.7-). I am pretty sure the chimney is longer than 90 feet, and it is definitely a double-rope rap to the top of the first pitch. Make sure to squeeze through the hole under the chockstone at the end of the chimney, it will remind your partner of all the beer he drank the night before.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Incredible Hand Crack (5.10c)
By: Dave Chenault When: Nov 28, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Ben, for the average-sized (w/r/t hands!) the jams through the overhang are ridiculously bomber. 9/10, and really freakin cool.
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