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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : ... : Photo
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Sep 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did your belayer forget to tie in?
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Blacktail Butte : Lower Blacktail Butte
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can't say for sure about Gill but I would assume so, since he spent quite a bit of time in the area.
I heard of Blacktail Butte back at Devils Lake,WI and spent a couple of day's TR'g there in the summer of '73.
A couple of weeks later, we ran into "The Master" himself, John Gill while we were bouldering at the Big Sandy trailhead in the Wind's and spent an afternoon with him.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : Country Western Swing aka M... (5.11d)
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Jun 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hopefully somebody has tightened all the ancient bolts since my last time up it in '95. At that point, they were all spinners, and I knew I was probably at the crux when I clipped the lousiest bolt of them all.
You might want to have 1 or 2 pieces of 3/4 to 1" gear to protect the crack after the pumpy overhanging bolted start to get to the anchors.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Photo
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Mar 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is a great shot !
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Ypsilon Mountain : Blitzen Ridge (5.4)
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Jan 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I know one of my old partners, Pat McGrane did a mid-winter ascent with his brother ~'77-79.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Currey's Diagonal (5.10b)
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Jan 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Who was Currey ? I'm sure in my vast collection of moth eaten guidebooks dating back to '72 when I first started climbing at the 'Woo, if they're still readable, buried in my crawlspace, there is the info.
Meanwhile, who got the FFA? I'm sure Layne's book had the info, but I can't find it in my bookcase.
I vividly recall my onsight lead of it back in '76, just after leading "Finally" when our "crew" from CSU spent a weekend prior to the start of my last fall semester there.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : ... : Photo
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Dec 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Note the old school harness"
Not to mention the nice Lycra and "high top" shoes. The harness looks like my old Robertson.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Brinton's Buttress : Chicago (5.9 R)
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Nov 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just thinking back, but in '69 as we were rappelling down this route we passed a very old man with no rope, climbing up beside us. He told me "Why don't you try climbing up instead of rapping down" and out of this, resulted my lifelong passion. The old man was Dave Slinger, my "mentor" and probably one of the greatest climbers of the "Golden Age". He kind of adopted us as his grand kids and took us around showing his favorites and in the process teaching me how to climb. I can still remember how... more >>
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Black Rib (5.11a)
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Nov 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Quote: Jay Knower, "As for Black Rib, it's a 5.11 with a 12a move on it, in classic Devil's Lake tradition. "
So now I was climbing 5.12 in '71 ??
My first 5.10, and one of my favorite 5.10's, next to Flatus that is.
My question, were we actually climbing that hard, back in '69-'73 during my stint at "The Lake", were I ticked essentially every F10 in the old "Red Book of Westmarch", in my way too big RD's, plus freeing a bunch of aid routes, and a few of our own ?
Or are Devil's Lake standa... more >>
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Black Slabbeth (5.10a)
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Nov 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb has a pretty contentious history from the past.
I was involved with many long series of posts that were deleted years ago by the mod's regarding this route.
Thankfully, someone has posted a few photos of the route.
http://imglarge.mountainproject.com/106309393_273edf.jpg
Clip from the right crack, clip from the left, chase the bolt's ???
Where is the actual route ?
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Black Slabbeth (5.10a) : Photo
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Nov 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: As I said many years ago when this entire thread was deleted, and not wanting to re-open the can of worms....
But...the photo supports my view. Clip from the right crack, clip from the left crack. You can reach the bolts either way. Put your "blinders" on, follow the bolts straight up and it's worth a run.
Otherwise, one of the top 100 most contrived routes at Shelf.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Lower Progressive (5.9+)
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: May 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Standard Vedauwoo 5.9+ as a crack climb.
Face climb the crystals, and just use the crack for pro, and its a standard 5.9-. Just because its near a crack doesn't mean you have to climb it as a crack.
One of the better gear face climbs at the "Woo" that is much easier than trying to jam it.
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Location: WY : Sweetwater Rocks : Split Rock : Photo
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Apr 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's Lankin Dome in the distance.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Photo
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Sep 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: BTW, it's one of the smaller faces in the canyon.
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Location: WY : Sweetwater Rocks : The Moonstone : Stargazer (5.7)
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Jul 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bumping just to see if anyone knows the name, FA, or rating.
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Location: CO : Davenport Finishes 14'er Qu...
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Jan 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I first climbed Long's the Summer of '72. I've since summited it, 20-30 times and about 15-20 other 14'ers. I think I'm really close to being over 14,000' 53 times but the brain gets fuzzy at my age. :~)
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Talent Scout : Powerglide (V8)
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Oct 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The photo's MOST DEFINITELY are of Powerglide (V8). The undercling problem mentioned to the left is "The Talent Scout". Zig-zagging up the jugs just Rt of the photo is the V3 "Standard" rt.
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : The Main Wall : Wild Horses Wall : The Devil Wears Spurs (5.10d)
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Sep 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beat me to my description:
The BEST 10d or even the best 10 period at Iris, perfect pocket pulling !! This as good as it get's for a "moderate" and is the "Gold Standard" for the best 5.10 at Iris
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Location: WY : Wind River Range : Deep Lake Area : Haystack Mountain : Minor Dihedral (5.9)
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Sep 3, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was the longest climb I'd ever done, on my first trip to the Wind's in '73. We were using the Bonney guide that called this a 23 pitch 5.7 route. Living in Chicago at the time, the longest climb I'd ever done was a 2 pitch climb in Estes the summer of '72, so the sound of a 23 pitch, 5.7 route was too good to be true.
At least we were Devils' Lake 5.10 climbers at the time, because I thought is was a "bit" harder than 5.7, or it could have been all the bivy gear we were carrying for a 23... more >>
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Flatus (5.11b)
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Oct 4, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, to think I was climbing DL 11b in '72 when my old Red Guidebook called it 10b !! Still one of the best thin face routes at the Lake !!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Black Rib (5.11a)
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Aug 29, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5.11a ? This was my first F10a back in '71 wearing an old pair of RD's.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Gill's Buttress : Gill's Crack (5.10c)
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Aug 10, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, another great example of Devil's Lake sandbags in the old days. I climbed this multiple times 71'-73' and my guide called it F9b and I thought it right on for Devils' Lake. (Not counting having to get my buddy rescued after his knifeblades pulled on his lead attempt) Another "Must Do" Lake classic!!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Brinton's Buttress : Brinton's Crack (5.6)
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Oct 18, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Still an interesting thread! I finaly got to go back and climb at "The Lake" after a 30 yr. absence due my move to CO. I was back in Aug. on a perfect chilly day and went to visit a lot of my old favorites. (The one thing that shocked me was that it was more crowded on Weds. than I ever remember a weekend back in '72-'73! )The ratings at "The Lake" are STOUT !! I'm still climbing 5.11-12 sport routes and trad to 5.10 and going back to repeat a lot of routes I did as a High School kid was shock... more >>
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : The Stretcher (5.9+)
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Sep 11, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually I believe Scott Stewerd lead this way back when on a couple of tied of knifeblades "just for show"
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Brinton's Buttress : Brinton's Crack (5.6)
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Jul 31, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Interesting thread running here. I learned to climb at "The Lake" starting in '69 and while the majority of my ascents were TR , I did lead a far amount of climbs. IMO the ratings at "The Lake" are what I grew up with and for me are still my standard for comparisons. I would say Eldorado Canyon is very comparable while "The Valley" classics always seemed soft to me. Go figure ; I thought we were "supposed" to be following Yosemite standards. The harder grades are another story but I th... more >>
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