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"Driftwood" direct V6/7. Also known as the "Skinner Problem" and "Shark's Tooth." Starts on two tiny matched crimps at chest height. Gets slightly easier as you go, but scarier. Bring plenty of pads and spotters, as the shelf beneath is narrow and drops away. <br />


Member Since: May 15, 2006
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Dave Wachter


Point Rank: # 769
Total Points: 832
Last Year: 2
Last 30 Days: 0
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Dave Wachter been climbing?










Contributions


All 374 | Routes 32 | Areas 8 | Photos 51 | Page Improvements | Comments 137 | Posts 20 | Stars 104 | Ratings 22
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Joe's Valley : New Joe's : Chip and Dale : Chips (V7) : Photo
By: Dave Wachter When: Jul 20, 2013

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Comments: Are tick marks that big really necessary? I suppose no harm done if they were cleaned off after the session...


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla...
By: Dave Wachter When: Jun 17, 2013

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Comments: "temperatures can and do regularly range between 90 degrees F. and -60 degrees F."

Really? regularly -60F?


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound : Upper Mound - the corridor : Corridor Problem (V6-7)
By: Dave Wachter When: Feb 16, 2013

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Comments: Just got on this again yesterday. Unfortunately, the broken hold really does decrease the quality of the problem. Tore the pad off the tip of my left ring finger moving off of it. Be careful to move onto and off of it as statically and precisely as possible or you may get an unpleasant taste of what sharp granite crystals can do to your skin!
I originally thought it was a 4-star problem, now I give it 2...


Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Practice Wall : Slimebelly Snakeass Sodhole... (5.12 PG13) : Photo
By: Dave Wachter When: Oct 22, 2012

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Comments: Probably an excellent photo before the kids got to it and smeared water all over it except for the part in the middle with the climber.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Gilman Tunnels : The Broken Arrows : Right Arrow : Happy Feet (5.11b)
By: Dave Wachter When: Jul 15, 2012

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Comments: Excellent sustained technical face climbing! Crux seemed to me to be the lower section (shared with hostile takeover), but this one will hold your interest all the way to the top. I beg to differ with the 5.10 rating for the upper section (though I suppose if the best holds are chalked up it could be easier than I found it). In any case, this is old school climbing so don't be surprised by the old school rating.
I thought the rock seemed solid, but just saw the comment about a trundled rock. Bot... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Gilman Tunnels : Second Tunnel : Out of the Shadows (5.10b) : Photo
By: Dave Wachter When: Jul 15, 2012

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Comments: Nice photo!


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Gilman Tunnels : Second Tunnel : Out of the Shadows (5.10b)
By: Dave Wachter When: Jul 15, 2012

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Comments: Fun route but not sustained. Bolts are not optimally placed to protect against a broken ankle on a ledge. Not the best lead for an aspiring 5.10 climber. Pretty good rock quality for Gilman.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Pirate's Wall : Scurvy Dog (5.9)
By: Dave Wachter When: Jun 19, 2012

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Comments: Fun climbing but chossy. Footholds near the bottom are crumbling and big chunks of the route higher up look ready to fall off.


Location: NM : New Mexico Navajolands : Ship Rock
By: Dave Wachter When: Apr 13, 2012

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Comments: Thanks for the suggestion, Jeremy. I'll take it as well-meaning advice, though that's clearly not how it was intended.
You obviously missed my point. The thing I object to is publicizing something that oughtn't be publicized. Aside from my moral objection to climbing Shiprock in the first place (which I suspect a significant number of other people share, though maybe not the ones who spend most of their time lurking on climbing web sites), there's the point that sneaking or otherwise finagling o... more >>


Location: NM : New Mexico Navajolands : Ship Rock
By: Dave Wachter When: Apr 12, 2012

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Comments: I'm not sure why Shiprock is posted on Mountain Project seeing that it's off limits due to its sacred status among Navajos. Giving beta on climbing it is potentially insulting to both the Navajo and the Mtn Project users who are not cultural ignoramuses (I was going to use the term "idiot rednecks," but then I realized that that would have been angry, reactionary, and insensitive to a certain category of poor unintelligent uncultured white folks). FYI, I know someone who works on the Res who got... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Upper Meadow : First Buttress : Creature (5.12c)
By: Dave Wachter When: Apr 12, 2012

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Comments: Anyhow, it looks awesome!


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Upper Meadow : First Buttress : Creature (5.12c)
By: Dave Wachter When: Apr 11, 2012

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Comments: Looking at the photo sequence, I'm not sure I believe the "non-height dependent" description, unless of course the bearded person in the photo is the 5'1" woman...


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Knife Edge (Easy 5th)
By: Dave Wachter When: Mar 14, 2012

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Comments: I do this solo at least once a year. Can't imagine a year going by without making the pilgrimmage.
I park at the Piedra Lisa lot and walk up the knife edge, continue up through the limestone band,then take the north crest trail to the TV towers and come down chimney canyon. There's a beautiful rest spot on top of the limestone band just before you hit the North Crest trail, another on the grassy aspen knoll as you start down (just above muralla grande and chimney canyon), and another couple at t... more >>


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Major Wall : The Demon (5.12d)
By: Dave Wachter When: Mar 1, 2012

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Comments: I heard a key foothold broke off at the lower crux (between the 2 jugs at the bottom of the route), and based on my attempts to find something to smear my stealth onyx resoles on I can believe that. Not sure when the alleged holdbreaking occurred, but DTP, if you climbed the route beforehand that may explain the controversy. Unfortunately I may never know how hard this is because I injured an A4 pulley (right ring finger) trying to work through that boulder problem. I max out at the cusp of V6/7... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound
By: Dave Wachter When: Feb 8, 2012

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Comments: Claude has posted a few on this site. Guess I'm not sure they're actually new problems, but I hadn't known about them before. I've also been seeing chalk on some holds that weren't chalked before in other places, such as on the southeast corner of the Brett and Jill boulders and on the north facing aspect of some of the clusters. Not a new mother lode of problems, and maybe I'm off on the grades of some things that aren't posted. Still, it seems like there's more stuff chalked recently than ther... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound
By: Dave Wachter When: Feb 7, 2012

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Comments:
  • **BAD NEWS**:
It seems that somebody's been destroying problems at U-mound lately. We found two last week that we think were purposely mangled:
1) West arete of the Brett & Jill boulders (V1 - best warm up at U-mound) - The finishing jug was apparently smashed off with a big rock we found lying at the base. The rock was compact/ smooth and light-colored, clearly out of place next to the grey featured granite of the boulders themselves. We cleaned the problem up as best we could, but what's left... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound : Upper Mound - the corridor : Corridor Problem (V6-7)
By: Dave Wachter When: Feb 6, 2012

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Comments: As of early Feb 2012 a hold has broken on this problem. It used to be a good left-hand crimp about 10 feet off the ground, now it's a pretty good pinch if you get it right. Not the crux of the problem, so the grade shouldn't change, but it still sucks. Seems unlikely it was simply pulled off, looks more like it was smashed with a rock (can be reached by standing on the small boulder next to the problem). This happened at around the same time as two other likely related events:
1) Someone took a ... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound : Warmup Boulders (AKA Brett ... : Layback arete (V1)
By: Dave Wachter When: Feb 6, 2012

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Comments: As of the beginning of Feb 2012 the finishing jug on this problem has been smashed off. There was a big smooth light-colored rock weighing about 7 or 8 lb lying just beneath the destruction, which made it pretty clear that someone had defaced it (didn't look like it had simply been pulled off by someone yarding on it). I also noticed at about the same time that a hold on the corridor problem had been broken. Both of the broken holds were at a level easily reached by someone standing on a boulder... more >>


Location: NM : Taos Area : Photo
By: Dave Wachter When: Feb 2, 2012

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Comments: Awesome photo! Not our usual NM sky but equally beautiful and dramatic. I particularly like the view of the snowy Truchas on the lower horizon. That's gotta be JF climbing. I'd know that casual chalking pose from a mile away.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : Photo
By: Dave Wachter When: Feb 1, 2012

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Comments: Damn, Mike, brings back memories! Gotta get back up there and see some of the new climbing you guys have been developing. This spring for sure.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Harmonica Convention (AKA B... : ... : Photo
By: Dave Wachter When: Jan 17, 2012

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Comments: Hmmm. That's 4 moves in by my count. This is where you have to try hard.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Harmonica Convention (AKA B... : ... : Photo
By: Dave Wachter When: Jan 9, 2012

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Comments: Great problem, great move (coming up), great photo!


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : Stoker (5.12b)
By: Dave Wachter When: Oct 3, 2011

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Comments: Stoker seems at least a letter grade harder than Crack Attack to me (just went back and did Crack Attack again after doing Stoker). Both seem to be solid at their respective grades. Perhaps it's a matter of whether or not you find the best (often less obvious) holds. I never found an easy way through the upper crux of Stoker, but for me the upper 3/4 of Crack Attack was just a matter of continuous pulling on good holds, and a final punch through the fun crimp/pinch sequence to the ancho... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : Photo
By: Dave Wachter When: Mar 2, 2011

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Comments: Super cool photo. Nice shapes and flow, nice combo of texture and silhouette.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : Photo
By: Dave Wachter When: Feb 20, 2011

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Comments: What kind of ethics is that? Who put that bolt there? You could TOTALLY protect that awesome jug haul with nuts and mircocams!


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