Comments: Hi everyone, I climbed this on Saturday to the huge belay ledge at the top of pitch four and bivyed (spelling??)(climbed Roger's Rock in the morning), then climbed the two 5.8 pitches first thing this morning and was back to the parking lot by noon. I can say there is some rap tat in a bush at the top of P1 (if you stay close to the overhang on the left). There is some tat and rap rings at the start of the ramp, at the finish of P2. There is some tat and rings in the middle of the ramp, at th... more >>
Comments: I would not call this even PG. The gear is all there, every time you have bomber footing there is a gear placement, what more can you ask for? Though I would agree that falling on the arete would most definitely suck. I also thought the climbing seemed easier than 5.6. ALL that being said, I thought that this route was awesome. I thoroughly enjoyed it, even a little bit more than the ever famous Rockaholic.
Comments: I found this route to be well worth it. We parked at the auto road, and did not want to descent any of the gullies into Huntington (conditions didn't look favorable from our scouting from Pinkham); so we ended up hiking down the Lion's Head Trail and then back up to the base of the Pinnacle. This took us about 2.5 hrs, but at the end, our vehicle was at the top, we needed only one vehicle, and we did not have to descend at the end of the day. The route itself had a lot of super chil... more >>
Comments: This route is incredible. I will say that the first pitch is (relatively) boring, and most of the second pitch is boring, but that roof pull is out of this world. I think I will try and climb this route every time I am at the Gunks. I used a GoPro and got a great video of the roof: .
Comments: Climbed this one today, and found the gear above the bolt on P2 to be perfectly adequate. There is a bomber nut placement above the bolt, and then you can get two small cams (.3 and .4 BD) before reaching the belay.