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Dreamweaver


Member Since: Jul 13, 2011
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 12,124
Total Points: 15
Last Year: 2
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 281 | Routes | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 10 | Posts 235 | Stars 21 | Ratings 14

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : North Face/Ridge : Keyhole Ridge (5.6)
By: Dave Bn When: Sep 18, 2014

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Comments: Amazing position on this route!

On the first tower, directly below the rap station to gain the traverse ledge, the obvious, mini-fridge sized jug-block for the downclimb is loose (this is likely the same as the flake referred to by Rich McFadden above). By applying only a fraction of my body weight, I could get the block to move several millimeters and make a hollow, grinding sound.

Avoiding using this block will make the downclimb substantially harder, so a rap is a better idea. Be warned, ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Photo
By: Dave Bn When: Feb 12, 2014

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Comments: Wow, very cool perspective on the Diamond!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Beehive Buttress : Gypsie Fire (5.5)
By: Dave Bn When: Sep 8, 2013

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Comments: Skip the first bolt or bring shoulder length draws for the first two bolts.

98% of this route is 5.5. The move past the fifth bolt, however, is not.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Beehive Buttress : Walking the Board (5.10a)
By: Dave Bn When: Sep 8, 2013

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Comments: I felt a directional on the second to last bolt made this route very top-ropeable.

Agreed that going left eases up the crux substantially. Puts it more in the 5.8 range. Move past the first bolt is pretty fun.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Haimovi Tower : Southeast Buttress (5.7)
By: Dave Bn When: Sep 2, 2013

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Comments: I think it's incredibly misleading to give this route a 5.7 rating. Yes, there is a 30 ft 5.7 variation on the second to last pitch, but that doesn't make the route itself 5.7. In reality, this route barely reaches 5.4.

Anyways, a great easy alpine route with a brutal approach but beautiful views.

The first two pitches (4th - 5.2) and the odd approach gully can be skipped by continuing on the trail to Upper Lake and taking a grassy/3rd class ramp directly to the notch between the 1st and 2nd ... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Batman Pinnacle : Batman and Robin (5.6)
By: Dave Bn When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: Was carrying a #4 C4 in the pack for another route we intended to do that day and ended up pulling it out for the top of the P1 belay. Seemed to fit in better than any other pieces and I wanted my one #3 with me for the next pitch.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Notchtop : Spiral Route (5.4)
By: Dave Bn When: Jul 16, 2013

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Comments: Done this route twice both times with different second pitches. Might have missed it, but I don't think this route can be done easier than 5.5-5.6. Awesome position and fun route though. To me, the descent was the mental crux (4th to low 5th traverse and dirty gully descent).


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Palisade Mountain : Nancy's Rock : Chance (5.7)
By: Dave Bn When: Jul 16, 2013

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Comments: The slab finish is a bit "tingly" and unprotected but can be avoided by traversing to the left and finishing on Borachone.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Palisade Mountain : Nancy's Rock : Borachone (5.6)
By: Dave Bn When: Jul 16, 2013

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Comments: One 5.7ish move at the first bolt. The climbing up to the first bolt is fun but difficult to protect on layered and flaky rock. I found a #3 Camalot a great home between the third bolt and the anchor.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : Long Wall : Your Possible Pasts (5.6)
By: Dave Bn When: Jul 16, 2013

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Comments: Agree that cams are not needed on this route. The walk off to the left veers to the right a bit and down an dirty(ish) gully.