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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Buzzard Perch : Terror in Tiny Town (5.11a/b)
By: dave bingham When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, it's "Terror of Tiny Town" - like the old midget movie. By the way,I don't think one needs any special gear(i.e.Lowe ball)to protect the route.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group : Jah Man (5.10)
By: dave bingham When: Apr 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the route with my 15 yr old son march '13. Awesome.
Drive: made it maybe a mile from the hwy. with a VW van. 1.5 hrs from there to rope-up.
Gear: We used "Best Moab Climbs"gear list - (and placed a lot of gear) but still had too many yellow and blue camalots. Not sure if we used a blue #3.
4 pitches including the mini summit pitch (V3 for short folk). No reason to belay before the squeeze IMO. 3 raps with a single 70m worked well.
Rating: Any route with a plus or minus is a sandbag... more >>
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - West : Chaos (5.12c)
By: dave bingham When: Nov 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Brad,
James Joyce? Sounds like alcohol may have been involved.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - West : Rollercoaster (5.9)
By: dave bingham When: Nov 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yea, not sure how this went from 5.7R to 5.9 with bolts...
I think 5.7 may be a sandbag though. 5.8?
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Checkered Demon : Checkered Demon (5.11a)
By: dave bingham When: Oct 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: ..pretty sure CD is the same as always - except some joker trundled the natural cheat stone that made it easier to pull in to the layback. OLD school 11a. The route to the right - "Some Assembly Required" does have missing holds however, and is quite a bit harder now.
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Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Unknown (5.10a)
By: dave bingham When: Sep 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this must be the start of "Slipstream" (.10/A3+). The first pitch is free - right facing flake, followed by two aid pitches, including the infamous tied-off drill bit pendulum.
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Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : The Fine Line (5.11a)
By: dave bingham When: Jul 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Historical correction: The "Lowe's"did the first clean (no piton) ascent, not the FFA. I think the first pitch was equipped and free climbed by Jeff Rhodes of Pocatello in the early 90's.
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Location: ID : Trail Creek - Sun Valley, I...
By: dave bingham When: Jun 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The newly published guide should be available in the SV area by next week.There are a few 10 and under climbs at Trail Creek, some sport and some crack. Wolftone is another area crag with moderate routes worth checking out. Look for the book and other info at the elephant's Perch shop in Ketchum.
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Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Original Beckey (5.11+)
By: dave bingham When: Jun 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Having done these routes several times, Clint's route description may be a little confusing.
The "Original Beckey" is, naturally, the line Fred Becky picked for his first ascent. The easier, less obvious "Direct" was done only after free attempts on the original line failed. After several bolts and fixed pins were added to the original first and third pitches in the early 90's, the original Beckey became free - and well-protected.
The "Direct" starts lower and left of the original and joins i... more >>
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Location: ID : Box Canyon : Bardini Wall : Coral Sea (5.10a)
By: dave bingham When: Jun 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The climbing in Box Canyon can be spooky at first. Sharp rock, small footholds. But R rated? Can 12 bolts in 150'be "R" rated?
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Strategic Defense (5.11c)
By: dave bingham When: May 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've had people suggest adding a lower bolt because the nut before the 1st bolt is marginal and the 1st clip is a not easy. Any thoughts out there?
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Location: ID : Dierkes Lake, Twin Falls, I...
By: dave bingham When: Jan 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The "Idaho Underground" guide is in the works and due out spring 2012.
Areas included are Twin Falls/Dierkes, Shoshone Lava Tubes, The Fins, Box Canyon and the local Sun Valley Crags.
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Location: ID : Trail Creek - Sun Valley, I...
By: dave bingham When: Jan 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm in the process of making a guide that will include Trail Creek, which has about 30 or so routes and is the closest cragging to Sun Valley. Look for "Idaho Underground" spring 2012. Cheers, Dave Bingham
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Location: ID : Dierkes Lake, Twin Falls, I... : Diarreah Cha Cha Cha (5.11a)
By: dave bingham When: Jan 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an old gear route with the crux being before the bolts, which are placed next to a 5.6 crack. I tried using the bolts and sticking with the arete to the left, but the bolts are not placed to be clipped from there. Odd.
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Location: ID : Dierkes Lake, Twin Falls, I... : Little Italy, No Name (12a/... (5.12a/b)
By: dave bingham When: Jan 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: "La Figa" 12a/b
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Location: ID : Dierkes Lake, Twin Falls, I... : Little Italy, No Name (11d) (5.11d)
By: dave bingham When: Jan 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Little Italy" 11c/d
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Location: ID : Dierkes Lake, Twin Falls, I... : Little Italy, No Name (10a/... (5.10a/b)
By: dave bingham When: Jan 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Olive Oil .10a
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Strategic Defense (5.11c)
By: dave bingham When: Nov 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Should this route be rated 11d?
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Drunken Cowboy (5.7)
By: dave bingham When: Nov 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is this a crack that's un-named in the Bingham guide, just r. of PP? Thanks for the info!
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Stripe Rock : Dykes of Gastonia (5.7)
By: dave bingham When: Oct 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Dike of Gastonia" "Gastonia" refers to the famous french alpinist Gaston Rebuffat, who was often pictured standing in silhouette or atop a precipitous needle of rock - Gaston-ia.
I'm psyched people are doing this old-school route!
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Failure to Launch (5.9)
By: dave bingham When: Oct 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beats me. It makes sense to me to just go straight up on "pocket.." There do seem to be a lot of named routes here that are pretty indistinct.I'll try and clear things up in the 2012 guide.
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Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : West Buttress - South : Claim Jumper (5.11c)
By: dave bingham When: Oct 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The above description of the crux options is a bit misleading. It's 11c-ish if you stay on the arete. If you go right and use the big hueco it's easier (11a-ish).
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - West : Scream Machine (5.10a R)
By: dave bingham When: Oct 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Coffee & Cornflakes" was originally a stupid X rated route I did in the '80's. For whatever reason I never learned the actual name the Jackson folk gave the bolted version (which is about 2 feet away from C&C). People started calling the bolt route C&C - and it just stuck.
I'll check with the FA folks about the "Scream Machine" name.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Lower Breadloaves - Provo W... : Easy Corner (5.5)
By: dave bingham When: Oct 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the rating corrections. I'll make sure to change for the new guide.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Building Blocks : Buiding Blocks - East : The Mechanic (5.12a)
By: dave bingham When: Oct 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Raingutter" is the fun bolt line right of "The Mechanic". ..not the one with the ring bolts, but the one that goes up the flare. Cool bouldery moves at the bottom lead to easier but wild stemming.
Greg Lowe reported doing this in the '70's but there is no natural pro at the bottom and no pin-scars. Maybe these bad boys just bouldered the .12 crux and scampered up the flare...
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