Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Mission Impossible (5.14c/d) : Photo
By: Darren Mabe When: May 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Call it "Intermission."
Or linking Interstellar thru MI, then Roadrunner, traverse past Wiledhorses var, and then finish on .30-06 to the top?!
"Impossible Interhorse" ?!
|
Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Mission Impossible (5.14c/d)
By: Darren Mabe When: May 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah!! Way to go, Daniel!
www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/woods_new_514d_in_clear_cre>>>
|
Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall
By: Darren Mabe When: Apr 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here is what happens using the Fixe pulley on that steel cable:
Not a big deal, but the braids cause the pulley to not track straight. I have had the best luck with BD's pulley. The nylon actually doesn't wear that badly and runs straight and smooth, and is cheap enough to replace if you drop it or you really spend that much time on Mission's tyrol (I am on my second pulley). Do not try the Petzl wheel... my buddy tried that and on one trip down the tyrol it turned into a doughy... more >>
|
Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Miscellaneous Routes : Engagement (5.10+)
By: Darren Mabe When: Apr 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: glad you enjoyed the route! You guys should have seen it before it was cleaned! I called P3 the "Pitch of Despair" for a reason, though I am glad I didnt give up , because in hindsight was a small price of admission to the excellent 4th pitch finger crack, and exposed Window Pitch finale! It is a special route, especially considering its grade and length so close to Flagstaff..
EDIT: Regarding the end of the last pitch when the dihedral pinches down, some good gear that may help sew it up are a... more >>
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : West Face : Grapefruit Dance (5.12b)
By: Darren Mabe When: Apr 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Coert: replace it with a bolt?!
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Sheeprock : Land that Time Forgot : ... : Photo
By: Darren Mabe When: Apr 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Who is going to try the Switching Stem Corner pitch to top out the route (upper-right in above photo)? It looked burly but might go!? I pre-placed two protection bolts in the summit slabs where the corner stops, though I think it might need a bolt to protect the start of it. At the time, I imagined a shoulder-stand or some other shenanigan to place the first piece, but it didn't really work out that way....
|
Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Confluence : Smashmouth (5.11a)
By: Darren Mabe When: Apr 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Better than Fine Jade in Castle Valley. Not to split hairs, but my pitch breakdown would be more like:
P1: 10+/11- stiff out of the gate, jamming the hollow flake. Watch for drag. 100'
P2: 10- elegant traversing face moves, and secure crack climbing with great feet. 70'
P3: 11 sustained bits of left-leaning fingers, some sharp thin hand jams and smears for you left foot. 75'
P4: 11- excellent with good rests and cool finishing sequence. I also thought this pitch was easier than the 3rd and I did... more >>
|
Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Are There Bolts Up There? (5.10a R)
By: Darren Mabe When: Mar 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you're craving adventure, also try Big Bro's Watchin'!
|
Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Clown Loach (temporary name... (5.8)
By: Darren Mabe When: Mar 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool, Leo! I haven't explored it, other than looking at it on rappel, but definitely looks a lot more direct than 'Crackside Direct' and a cool feature. I think I was nervous about a loose block halfway on it. Is there one? There is also may be potential for a cool short slabby route to the right of Crackside.
|
Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Cool Thing Wall (aka Kool K... : Cool Thing (5.13a PG13)
By: Darren Mabe When: Mar 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sure sounds like a cool thing!
|
Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Cool Thing Wall (aka Kool K... : Cool Thing (5.13a PG13)
By: Darren Mabe When: Mar 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice, Adam. I never made it over there, so had little clue of the grade as well. Is the water low right now? Or ice bridge?
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome : Comment : Photo
By: Darren Mabe When: Mar 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I know! The temps were only around 68F inside while we were watching a movie! Couldn't use the heating blanket either! but a hot shower the next morning helped start the next day....
|
Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Armory : The Gauntlet (5.12d)
By: Darren Mabe When: Mar 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: What else would you do with the cracks?
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome
By: Darren Mabe When: Mar 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Glenn. glad you got my humor. ;)
(Even though in reality, this is THE log you cross to get over to the Sheeprock and Helens formations downhill from Molly Gulch. It's a big one.)
Oh, speaking of Molly Gulch, here is the climbers parking area just before what was Molly Gulch Campground:
| Wintery conditions at Sheeprock,
May 2010.
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Mar 22, 2012
|
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome
By: Darren Mabe When: Mar 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yo D. log crossing (last time I was up there in 2010(?) looks something like this:
.
|
Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Mourning Glory : Mourning Glory (5.14c/d)
By: Darren Mabe When: Mar 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great news, Jim!! That is fantastic.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : ... : Photo
By: Darren Mabe When: Mar 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome shot!!!! Kill it, Josh!
|
Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Interstellar Overdrive (5.13d)
By: Darren Mabe When: Feb 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oooooo!, does that mean you could start with Interstellar and end on MI?
|
Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Mr. Squirrel Places a Nut (5.11c) : ... : Photo
By: Darren Mabe When: Feb 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good call, Jay. If the old bolt was pulled out in the first place, then putting it back in and re-tightening would have not done anything. The hole may have been too big from excessive drill wobble, and the bolt was most likely not tightened enough.
|
Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : Atlantis (5.11+ PG13) : Photo
By: Darren Mabe When: Feb 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: that looks about as classic as it gets
|
Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Photo
By: Darren Mabe When: Feb 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: cool. both of these are on my list now. thanks
|
Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : West Mountain : The Eagle : When Legends Die (aka Legen... (5.13a PG13) : Photo
By: Darren Mabe When: Feb 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: best tights ever
|
Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Clint's Well Areas : Winslow Wall : East Side : Chalk A Lot, Shake (5.12b/c)
By: Darren Mabe When: Jan 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: love the route name
|
Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Mars Attacks (5.9 PG13)
By: Darren Mabe When: Jan 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: maybe it was from a vortex or my holiday weight but the belay ledge blocks at the end of pitch 3 shift a bit under foot.. trad lightly.
|
Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : Solitude Canyon : ... : Main Wall
By: Darren Mabe When: Jan 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: What is the crack line left of Whiplash and the hangerless route left of that?
|
RSS Feed
