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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Beauty Mountain : Thunder Buttress : Gun Club (5.12c)
By: Darren in Vegas When: Mar 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the FA was Brooke Sandahl. Not sure of the year,
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Upper Oak Creek Canyon : Coltrane (5.9 R)
By: Darren in Vegas When: Jan 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: on the fourth pitch, I decided to skip the bolt that comes after the traverse, this kept rope drag down and made the rope line better for the second. It requires that you are solid on 5.8 terrain.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Meadow River : Third Buttress : Shake And Not Stir (5.12d)
By: Darren in Vegas When: Nov 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the name of this one is "Shake and not Stir" a play on words that refers to shaking out on a hold without knocking yourself off, but sounds like "shaken not stirred." Jim and I climbed together some around the time he fired this one and this is what I recall him saying.
However, this was some time ago and memories fade....
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : Angled Dangler (5.11c/d)
By: Darren in Vegas When: Oct 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments:
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Location: Tonto : And again : Photo
By: Darren in Vegas When: Sep 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: nein?
I count eighteen draws in the picture...nein times 2. haha
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Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Robber's Roost
By: Darren in Vegas When: Aug 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Video of The Burglar, 12d at Robber's Roost. [[
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Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Robber's Roost : Glory Daze (5.12c)
By: Darren in Vegas When: Jul 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Video of the route
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Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Ruth Gorge : The Stump : Goldfinger (5.11a)
By: Darren in Vegas When: Jul 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: video of route
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Challenger (5.10d PG13)
By: Darren in Vegas When: Jun 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Removed tattered webbing from the first two anchors and left quicklinks and biners on the bolted stations. Please leave the biners as they are there to facilitate easier rappelling, not for bootying. Better yet, replace the biners with more quicklinks and rap rings.
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Location: International : Europe : Germany : Frankenjura : Waldkopf : Action Directe (5.14d)
By: Darren in Vegas When: Jun 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The above video is Dimencia Senil and it is in Spain. I am not sure why this is posted up under Action Direct which is in Germany. Sure the guy climbing in the video has climbed Action Direct, but other than that, wrong climb in the wrong country.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : South Side : Kaymoor : Fire and Ice Buttress : Caroline Crocker and the Ti... (5.12a)
By: Darren in Vegas When: Jun 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is called Carolina Crocker and the Tipple of Doom, not Caroline Crocker. It was named after Carolina Joe Crocker who I believe did the FA.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Horseshoe Wall : Gwondonna Land Boogie (5.9+)
By: Darren in Vegas When: May 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Linked Pink Tornado to Gwondonna Land Boogie. Huge route, great day. Even though GLB has had some hardware added, it still has many sections where the climbing is heady. Don't expect this to be a clip up.
Props to the FA party on such a bold route. Holy crap! I can't imagine climbing some of this route in its original state with the gear of the era. We had a double rack and I was still on the edge of my seat the whole way up.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Texas Hold 'Em (5.11c)
By: Darren in Vegas When: May 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Currently pitch 8 has a completely detached hold that is about 20' up. It is about the size of a large brick, and is covered in chalk, just waiting to lure you into using it. If you were to pull on this your belayer might just get a facefull of Red Rock. Be careful, and perhaps trundle this on the way down.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Texanephrine (5.10d)
By: Darren in Vegas When: Apr 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was an excellent link up of some really nice pitches. The first half of the route is where the difficulty lies so it takes some time. However, once you reach the top of the Elephant's Trunk, you can make it to the top in a surprisingly short amount of time. The only extra beta I would add is that once you are at the top of the trunk, you can link the next two pitches with a 60m. In addition, I would also say that the 1500 feet listed as the route height is a bit misleading. T... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Horseshoe Wall : Sentimental Journey (5.9)
By: Darren in Vegas When: Apr 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Attempted this route 4/7/12. We started in an obvious chimney at the base of the route. From there, the obvious path wasn't terribly clear. We ended up climbing around WAY to the right, avoiding shrubs too thick to get through and some rotten rock on the immediate right of the next section.
Edit: We returned to this area to climb the Pink Tornado Left and I now see that this chimney pitch is actually the start of Pink Tornado Right. Sentimental Journey might be a more obvious line at the b... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders : Burnout Boulder
By: Darren in Vegas When: Mar 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of my favorite boulders at Kraft. I repeat Jones'n almost every time I am out there. Lately we have been trying to link Jones'n and Fire (Prounounced Fee-Ray, like the old shoes) Fresh Traverse. I am guesing it will be around V7, but really have no idea. I have never seen the link up written up anywhere, but I am sure it has been done before.
If anyone has info, let me know.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Civilization Crags : Evil Empire (5.11)
By: Darren in Vegas When: Mar 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I recently did the Offset Corners at 11b, so my thoughts on difficulty are in comparison to that. I haven't done much trad climbing lately so that climb is all I have for reference at the moment. I thought this route was tough, but the hard part is so short I figured I would try to factor that in.
All in all, worth dragging the rack for. Good find, Killis.
I think that this crag is a great all around addition to Red Rock cragging.
By the way, to me there is a difference between 10d (... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Civilization Crags : Evil Empire (5.11)
By: Darren in Vegas When: Mar 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I placed an old 4.5 camalot (new 4?) in the initial wideness, and then only used cams from 0 metolius to 0.5 camalot after that. Did not use a #00 metolius at all.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : Too Few Years (5.11a)
By: Darren in Vegas When: Nov 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found clipping the second bolt to be very difficult to do without climbing way out to the left and then coming back, where you would be above the bolt and in danger of decking on the ledge before clipping.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : On to the Next One (5.11a)
By: Darren in Vegas When: Nov 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: It was cool to see Mike get the FA. Good job man.
This route has quality movement, and could use some traffic to help clean it up.
Nice job finding a quality new line that has been hidden in plain sight for many years.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : The Healer (5.11d)
By: Darren in Vegas When: Oct 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: it is actually just to the right of Shape of Things to come.
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Location: NV : Rainbow Canyon : Schwing Time (5.11+)
By: Darren in Vegas When: Oct 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route was stout for 11+.
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Location: NV : Rainbow Canyon : Come and Get It (5.11-)
By: Darren in Vegas When: Oct 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Like many of the routes here, this one is hard for the rating. I listed the rating given by the FA.
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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South End : Drop Zone (5.11b PG13)
By: Darren in Vegas When: Oct 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: ascetic- A person who renounces material comforts and leads a life of austere self-discipline, especially as an act of religious devotion
I think you meant
aesthetic - Of or concerning the appreciation of beauty or good taste
but perhaps you didn't
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Location: NV : Rainbow Canyon : the route I climbed (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Darren in Vegas When: May 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is no way this route is 10a or whatever the OP would suggest. I would argue "The Route I Climbed" was not climbed by the OP. Be ready for some tough climbing between spaced bolts. Good climbing none the less, but be ready for 11- climbing.
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