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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Darkness 'til Dawn (5.10-)
By: Danny When: Nov 10, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've seen this one several times coming down the trail after doing other climbs and have always been intimidated. However, I rapped off the tree after finishing Grandmother's Challenge the other day and gave it a go. I am just getting into 10a Eldo leads and I found this one to be really fun and reasonable, albeit long. The gear is generally very secure and almost all moves are followed by good rests. Highly [recommended].
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Grandmother's Challenge (5.10c)
By: Danny When: Nov 10, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: An amazing route. Rossiter describes the crux section as "wild and strenuous"-I'd say he's right on.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls
By: Danny When: Oct 24, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Comment on the descent. If you are going up for the first time be sure you know where the Bowls are b/c if you descend in the wrong chimney it will be bad. My first time up there I accidentally descended the Central Chimney thinking it was the Bowels-honest mistake. Anyway this turned out to be a mini epic that could have resulted in much worse than the slings and rings I ended up leaving.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Conan's Gonads (Conad's) (5.9)
By: Danny When: Oct 24, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this to approach Tiger's Tooth. This pitch is awesome! It is a great pitch to work on hand-size, it is fairly uniform in width except for the wide section. To me this was like Lumpy's version of Generic Crack in Donnely Canyon. Similar length, size, and difficulty. Highly recommended!!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Tiger's Tooth (5.9+)
By: Danny When: Oct 24, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route. I found this to be very sustained, and the "crux" for me was not immediately apparent. There was a good knee jam rest just below the crux for me. which allowed me to rest up and get the courage to go for it. The chimney section was a grade easier yet still very physical.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: Danny When: Oct 19, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route. Interesting climbing the whole way. Because the way the route kinda zig-zags, each ptich is "bite-sized" so even thought each pitch is pretty sustained, they are all pretty short. The only [detraction] from this route was the rank puddle of urine left at the 4th belay. I was able to identify this liquid b/c I was misfourtunate enough to drop a loop of my rope in it-lukily it had cooled to the ambient air temp of approx 55 deg.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Kim (5.6)
By: Danny When: Oct 10, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: For aesthetics, this line is hard to beat, second to fantasia for the most striking line at the formation IMHO. It is also great first lead b/c it is short and forgiving.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Duncan's Ridge : South OW (5.9+)
By: Danny When: Oct 10, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: When everything at Duncan's is taken, rest assured this one is open. This is IMHO the best route at Duncans. Depending on the time of year there can be varying amounts of poo poo at the beginning of the crux. A big piece (i.e., #5 Camalot) will add some piece of mind, however some hardmen do it with nothing bigger than a #3 Camalot.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : J-Crack (5.9)
By: Danny When: Oct 10, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb! Getting into the bottom of J-crack is not as bad as I expected, the feet are really good. As for the crack-it is awesome. I chose to aid the headwall which was actually really cool. This was my first "planned" aiding experience and I thought is was very reasonable; the aid section is only about 20 feet. I used nothing smaller than a #4bd stopper. My second freed most of it. Enjoy!!
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Fantasia (5.9)
By: Danny When: Oct 3, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! The crux at the beginning does protect with small cams in the horizontal crack, just bring some runners. This gives you pro at your waist for pulling into the crack. Be sure not to blow your big gear too early like me or you'll be faced with a big runout.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Grand Giraffe (5.10a)
By: Danny When: Sep 26, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this the other day and thought it was great. I approached this thinking that the OW was going to a desperate grunt, but found it to be quite good. One thing to keep in mind with the GG is that the crux is very short. Overall, a stellar climb and well worth doing. I would recommend a #4.5 Camalot instead of a #5 and a #3 works well five feet or so below the roof. As for it not being popular (as described in the intro), I started this at 11:30 am and was the third group on it... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Werk Supp (5.9)
By: Danny When: Sep 12, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great climb and well worth doing. Pitch one and two could not be more different. Pitch one is thoughtful and balence-oriented while pitch two is deep-set slammer hands. For what it's worth, P2 [reminded] me of [Pool of Blood]. For the walk-off: head east down a ramp system, you'll see a tree with slings-don't go there, instead climb up a short corner and then down a very easy ramp to the talus.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Center Route (5.9+)
By: Danny When: Sep 6, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great climb, and the best (longest) crack that I've done in Colorado. When I climbed this recently, I used one 70-m rope b/c I heard that you can easily rap off the back into the "ice box" with just one rope. Anyway, long story short-rapping into the ice box is very very bad idea. Bring two ropes and avoid the ice box at all costs!!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Loose Ends (5.9)
By: Danny When: Jul 20, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this last year and again the other day. Awesome climb. However, since last year someone has put a nest of slings with a couple of rap rings at the top of the first section (50 or 60 feet up). What is up with this?? Is this now a Top-roping area? If someone had to bail and left them I understand, but if these are intended so groups can now camp out on the first half of the first pitch of a 5-pitch climb then that's B.S.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Gobbler's Grunt (5.9)
By: Danny When: May 23, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is really one of the best multi-pitch climbs I have done anywhere. The variation on the first pitch is awesome-five stars. The second pitch is also of the highest quality . The belay ledge after pitch two is really nice and shady (b/c it is in a sort of cave). Anyway on to why I am posting a comment. I did not consult this site before going out and doing this climb. Instead I relied on the guide book-this was a mistake. In the guide book it shows a walk off to the west. I attempted this, an... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Pool of Blood (5.9)
By: Danny When: Apr 18, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an exciting 5.9 lead. The gear is bomber, but it is pumpy (at least to me) so you really can't place too much. The 2 crux sections are followed by good rests. Even though this route is fairly short it is well worth doing despite the rope drag. Enjoy!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Emerald City (5.9)
By: Danny When: Apr 18, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route; when combined with the second pitch of Over the Hill it is one of the best at this grade. The route seemed sustained 5.9 to me, but there are good rests to place good gear between moves. Both this route and the second pitch of Over the Hill are delicate and balance-oriented 5.9 versus pumpy/strenuous 5.9. Enjoy!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : West Side aka West Chimney (5.7)
By: Danny When: Apr 15, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've done this one twice. It is good in parts, however both times that I've been on this there has been a ton of bird poop and birds. All of the doo doo is concentrated at the second pitch crux. The smell up there was so foul that I did not want to stop to place pro. Plus the last time I climbed it I thought that I was going to be attacked by the two pigeons that flew out of their perch right when my face was even with them. Other than that, the climb is good.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : V3 (5.8)
By: Danny When: Apr 4, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! I chose the non-stemming option while leading this one. I am just getting into finger cracks and found this one a good intro to finger jams and toe work (if not stemming). I did not bring big gear (i.e., the # 4 discussed above) and felt fine. However, without a big piece (hex or cam) the last set of moves out right to the bolts will be EXPOSED and a run out, but the climbing is easier at that point. Enjoy!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Gonzo (5.8)
By: Danny When: Apr 4, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first pitch of this one is great, the crux feels spicy but protects very well with a red alien. I agree with the 5.8 rating, however compared to V3 (which is also a great route) this route is more difficult technically IMO. In short, take the hike (which is nothing compared to many approaches) and loose the crowds. enjoy!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : The Bomb (5.4)
By: Danny When: Mar 29, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I totally agree with the helmet thing. I wear a helmet at all times in Eldo. Furthermore, moto-cross gear would not be a bad idea at the Wind Tower.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Long John to V... : Long John Wall (5.8)
By: Danny When: Mar 28, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Comments regarding the rap off: The second tree [definitely] makes a lot of noise, creaking popping etc... as you rap off. Secondly, I used a 60-m rope and it does not reach the ground from the second rap tree-Knot your rope. It takes you to a ledge 20 feet above the trail from which you can down climb easily to the west.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Verschneidung ... : Verschneidung (5.7)
By: Danny When: Mar 7, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is [definitely] among the best routes at this grade in Eldo. I also feel that the rating is right on. This is a great into to jamming technique. The only problem with this route is that the crack is not long enough. It protects very well with #3 Friends, or # 2 Camalots. Enjoy.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Kor's Flake (5.7)
By: Danny When: Sep 20, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Superb route! Did this easily in four pitches with a sixty meter rope. Found the off-width to be the crux-a number five BD Camalot proved nice for this section. Rossiter mentions stemming. but once in it I found it very difficult to exit.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Arapahoe Peaks : North Star Couloir
By: Danny When: Jun 27, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed north star on the 26th. Snow was in good shape, however about 200' from the notch the snow was melted out for about 100'. The last 100' or so was in snow. After getting over the pass between south arapahoe and quarter-to-five peak, I made the mistake of going too low in the valley. Ended up having to climb up steep scree to get to the climb. As for finding the couloir, I did'nt think it was too hard, especially after looking at George Bell's pic showing the entrance.
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