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Member Since: Sep 6, 2002
Last Visit: May 22, 2006
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Point Rank: # 10,133
Total Points: 23
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 35 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 23 | Posts | Stars 10 | Ratings 2
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Clementine (5.5)
By: DanMoore When: Aug 30, 2005

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Comments: I did this route this morning and I'd do it again. The traverse on the first pitch is spicy. For me, it was s/vs--the feet aren't obvious, I didn't see many protection placements and was afraid I'd hit the ground, and the handholds had little flakes of rock coming off.

Then, some fun exposed moves on giant handholds. After that, had to do a bit of gardening to the ledge.

But the second pitch was fantastic--pro when you wanted it, a lot of exposure and easy climbing.

Overall, I'd say ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : East of the Sun (5.7)
By: DanMoore When: Jul 24, 2005

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Comments: I liked p2 quite a bit. Got in a few pieces of pro towards the start, plugged in a number 1 cam (I believe) at the left sloping ramp, and then scrambled up the slab to the top of the East Slab route. I didn't feel that slab climbing was 5.7, certainly it wasn't as hard as the crux on the first pitch. Rather than go up the fun flake at the top of the East Slab, I went up the crack to the [left]. Fun! Don't know what it was rated in Rossiter, but I've heard it was 5.7, and I'd guess it's arou... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Wind Tunnel (5.7 R)
By: DanMoore When: Jul 7, 2005

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Comments: I'd do the first pitch and then rap to the ground. We didn't actually go up the right side of the slab--my partner headed up to the left (up a groove), then back right. This was ok, but the left side looked like more fun (at least on rap). Wouldn't bother with the rest of the route, though. As above, lots of loose blocks and scrambling rather than climbing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: DanMoore When: Jul 6, 2005

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Comments: I was at the base of [Rewritten] around 7:45 on a Saturday, and there were three parties of three ahead of us for the first pitch. Luckily, they were all headed off to do Swanson's or Icarus. Rather than scramble up the West Chimney and cross over all the ropes of these folks, my partner and I did the first pitch of Green Slab Direct (5.8). Then you can traverse over right in a pitch to the top of the second pitch of Rewritten (through a tunnel with loose rock galore).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Schizophrenia (5.8)
By: DanMoore When: Jul 6, 2005

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Comments: Decent climb and fun while it lasts. The start is a bit bouldery for my liking and the interesting part is way too short. In fact, the whole climb is way too short. Definitely a one star.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Twofers (5.8)
By: DanMoore When: Jun 8, 2005

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Comments: I just did this yesterday. Didn't feel quite like 5.8 but still super fun. However, I wouldn't want to lead this, as I didn't notice any pro placements after you turn the roof.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Little Old Crack aka Boulde... (5.5)
By: DanMoore When: Sep 7, 2004

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Comments: This has been said before, but I'll say it again. This climb may be 5.5, but it's a different 5.5 than, say, Breezy in Eldo. Way different. There are enough features on the face for your left foot, so you don't have to jam the entire way up. And when you're at the end, you've worked and grunted enough that you certainly feel you've accomplished something. I'd do it again.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Breezy (5.5)
By: DanMoore When: Sep 6, 2004

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Comments: Did this today, direct start. Other than one or two moves at the beginning, the first pitch is very mellow. Setting up a belay at the gnarled tree is a bit sketchy--you have the tree, and a nut above your head, but I couldn't find any other solid placements. The second pitch, however, makes it all worthwhile. It's super fun, easy jamming.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Wise Crack (5.8)
By: DanMoore When: Aug 28, 2004

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Comments: Beyond whether this should be bolted at all (because, yes, you could totally protect it with gear), it's a fun climb. Practice your jamming skills, but keep your eyes open--whenever the jams get sparse, there's a jug in reach. I lowered, but it looked like you could walk off to left.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : Outer Gates : Stone Smoked Porter (5.11b/c)
By: DanMoore When: Aug 22, 2004

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Comments: I did this today, but cut off before the headwall. (This isn't in the new Gillett book; I had no idea how difficult it was.) Instead, I finished up on the crack at the top of La Maudite. I clipped the top 2-3 bolts of this climb, but next time would probably clip the bolts on La Maudite, rather than strain to clip the bolts on this climb. My friends and I thought this variation would probably be a 5.8 or 5.9.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : Outer Gates : No Mystery Here (5.7)
By: DanMoore When: Aug 22, 2004

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Comments: I really didn't like this climb. Maybe it was the weather (ominous) or my condition (tired) but it felt like this was one move, repeated 100 times. Sustained, but the same move (reach for a pebble, position feet, stand up. Repeat).


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : Outer Gates : Going to the Chapel (5.8)
By: DanMoore When: Aug 22, 2004

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Comments: Did this yesterday, good fun. After the sixth bolt, I didn't see any more until the anchors, but it's pretty mellow climbing. In addition, you can walk off the back from the top, rather than rappelling. However, if I were to do it again, I'd probably head over to the anchors after the 6th bolt.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Calypso (5.6)
By: DanMoore When: May 7, 2004

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Comments: Another accident on Calypso. The climber walked away from 80 foot fall: dailycamera.com/bdc/county_new...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Mesca-Line (5.7)
By: DanMoore When: May 3, 2004

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Comments: So much fun. It isn't as steep as it looks and there's almost always a hold where you need it (if rarely more than that). I found this climb to be fairly sequential. I'll also repeat the warning to get a piece in before you head over the flake. I expected a rather mellow trip to the anchor after passing the flake, but there's still some business. The hike up to the climb is quite a burn from the streamside trail.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP
By: DanMoore When: Apr 30, 2004

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Comments: FYI: season passes are now 55 dollars.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Wind Ridge (5.8)
By: DanMoore When: Apr 29, 2004

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Comments: I climbed Wind Ridge yesterday, and with a 60 m rope was easily able to combine the first two pitches into one great, varied, protectable, quality pitch (I did use a fair number of runners). I'd always stopped at the big belay ledge before, but linking the pitchs is a great way to end the day when you're climbing with experienced folks.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : West Face [Whale's Tail] (5.6 X)
By: DanMoore When: Apr 15, 2004

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Comments: I did this yesterday, and we toproped from the anchors above the West Dihedral, rather than the West Crack. Better all around--less swing, not in the way of the classic West Crack. I wasn't looking for pro, but I can see this being a very scary lead because it's a lot of slab with not a whole lot of crack.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail
By: DanMoore When: Nov 24, 2003

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Comments: Getting to the base of the west face of this rock is a bit hairy. It's not that you're afraid of falling, it's just that the ground is so far away.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : East Slab (5.6)
By: DanMoore When: Jun 24, 2003

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Comments: Great route. I was just wondering why you'd do it in two pitches?


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Edwards' Crack (5.7)
By: DanMoore When: Jun 1, 2003

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Comments: Hi,

I was wondering what othr folks thought of this route's rating. Is it really a 5.7? It felt much like Calypso to me, which is 5.6.

Thanks,Dan


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Duh Dihedral (5.6)
By: DanMoore When: Sep 24, 2002

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Comments: Just curious how you descend this route. Any pointers?

Thanks.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Calypso (5.6)
By: DanMoore When: Sep 24, 2002

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Comments: Just did this today. I'm pretty new to leading, but I have a few words for folks interested in this climb. If you are going to do the walk off, realize that it is pretty exposed. I was happy to be roped up. The protection is a bit thin, but I felt the walk off was very exposed. Conversely, I was interested in rappelling (from the bolts on top of Reggae), but when I got the the ledge on the second pitch, I couldn't find much pro placement. In either case, don't be deceived by the direct nat... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : East Face (Standard) (5.4)
By: DanMoore When: Sep 6, 2002

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Comments: Hey,

Yesterday did this for the first time. Fantastic climb. We actually started at the base and just angled up and to the right, aiming for the 2nd eyebolt. (There were a few normal bolts along that path, as well.) Made for eight great pitches (with a 60 meter rope, we were able to skip the 3rd eyebolt belay and the belay on the ramp after the last eyebolt) of fantastic face climbing.

However, I was wondering about the descent. After rapping from the top, do you head north or south? We ... more >>


Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Wind Ridge 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Wind Tower - SW Face

Mesca-Line 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : West Ridge - part C - Pony ...

Twofers 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

CO : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag

Wise Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : West Face

Going to the Chapel 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Outer Gates

West Face [Whale's Tail] 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail

Little Old Crack aka Boulder Hop 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill

Clementine 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail

No Mystery Here 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Outer Gates

Wind Tunnel 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : West Ridge - part C - Pony ...

Contributed Ratings

Name Established Rating Suggested Rating Location

Twofers

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CO : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag

Clementine

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail

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