Contributed Comments |
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Location: VA : Photo
By: DankBird77 When: Aug 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great Photo
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Location: VA : Elizabeth Furnace : Talking Headwall : Pure Energy (5.10a)
By: DankBird77 When: Jun 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun start with different types of holds for this crag. You can crimp! Getting from the 4th both up and over to where you clip from is not only REACHY its also pretty lame and breaks up the flow of the route. Dont get sucked in under the roof with the great r.hand side pull. Its tough to get back out to the face and go for the reach.
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Location: VA : Elizabeth Furnace : Talking Headwall : Big Balls (5.10b)
By: DankBird77 When: Jun 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The roof is really fun. All the holds are there for good clipping. From the last bolt keep your hands going right for better holds. If you try to go straight up you'll be struggling. Cheater tree at top to grab to clip anchors from if your about to bail.
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Location: VA : Elizabeth Furnace : Talking Headwall : I Love Big Jugs (5.8)
By: DankBird77 When: May 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good Warm up for the area
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Bruise Brothers Wall : Send Me on My Way (5.9-)
By: DankBird77 When: May 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Careful getting to the first bolt if you dont stick clip. I watched a number of people stuggle in fear to get to what looks like an easy first bolt.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Bruise Brothers Wall : Workin For the Weekend (5.10c)
By: DankBird77 When: May 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the mix of fun moves from slab to pulls and pump made this a really, really fun route. I thought it was much better than Rat Stew or Hey There Fancy Pants.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Bruise Brothers Wall : Return of Manimal (5.10d)
By: DankBird77 When: May 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Several big moves in a row on slightly overhanging face will have you burning as you try to clip and pull the last roof. Act like a Manimal and grunt through it.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : Danita Dolores (5.10)
By: DankBird77 When: May 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun Route. Face climbing to the arete. Ride the arete and make a few clips, then easy slabby climbing as you stay around the right side of the arete and up to the chains.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Left Flank : Fast Food Christians (5.10a)
By: DankBird77 When: May 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: wasnt a fan of this route. I think its called Fast Food because its bad for you.
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Location: TN : Foster Falls : Main Wall : Grey Matter (5.9 PG13)
By: DankBird77 When: Dec 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Concur with Lid. As of Dec 17, 2o10 first bolt (or two) was missing. As such, dont think this route gets much action.
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Location: TN : Foster Falls : Main Wall : Therapist (5.9+)
By: DankBird77 When: Dec 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Also lots of fun. All 3 routes on Rehab slab are fun. Did this after getting burned on Fish Eyed Fool and it was good "therapy" to get my confidence back.
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Location: TN : Foster Falls : Main Wall : That Orange Hat (5.10b)
By: DankBird77 When: Dec 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thought it was solid for grade. Try jamming and camming left hand in lower crack below first bolt then rock up to a good jug to clip the first bolt. Last good hold between last bolt and anchors was wet with melting water and ice on a sunny December day. Short but fun.
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Location: TN : Foster Falls : Main Wall : Rolffed (5.9+)
By: DankBird77 When: Dec 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: my shorter partner almost rolffed on it getting the roof, but she still enjoyed it. Good fun.
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Location: TN : Foster Falls : Main Wall : Rehab (5.10a)
By: DankBird77 When: Dec 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Face to slab to roof to slab to roof to slab, yet a variety of moves and lots of fun. Recommended. Enjoy
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Location: TN : Foster Falls : Main Wall
By: DankBird77 When: Dec 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Id love to see this "Main Wall" broken up into different areas. Id be willing to help. How can it get done? FYI -The three routes on Rehab Slab were really, really fun.
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Location: TN : Foster Falls : Main Wall : Mammy (5.9)
By: DankBird77 When: Dec 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Has this route changed from the original route? Found two bolts up a slab to the left of Diamond Cutter, but then it traversed out left to another two bolts and face climbing to a single hanger with a link. Fun, but different than the description.
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Location: TN : Foster Falls : Main Wall : Mammplitude (5.10b)
By: DankBird77 When: Dec 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dutch Maiden was harder. This is a fun route, but not 10b. One of few routes I found soft for the grade at Foster Falls. Its all there.
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Location: TN : Foster Falls : Main Wall : Fish-eyed Fool (5.10b)
By: DankBird77 When: Dec 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: STOUT! Cool moves. Sequencey. Mid-grade leads dont expect to just blaze this route.
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Location: TN : Foster Falls : Main Wall : Dutch Maiden (5.10a)
By: DankBird77 When: Dec 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wondered if a hold hadnt broken between the third bolt and the anchors (or maybe it was 2nd to third bolt). Anybody have beta on the moves to the anchors? Also wasnt sure which way to go...Left or Right to get to the final pocket, as the face straight up, was straight up bald. Didnt think the route wasnt very natural based on the bolt placement. I too regularly climb 10s and this was no 10a. 10b minimum. Couple of fun moves at the bottom, but dont see why this is a highly rated route... at lea... more >>
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Location: TN : Foster Falls : Main Wall : Bear Mountain Picnic (5.8+)
By: DankBird77 When: Dec 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Harder than 5.8 IMHO, and novice leaders should expect this not to be an easy "picnic" that being said good warm up. All but beginning of route is in shade. Makes it a bit cold for winter mornings.
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Location: TN : Foster Falls
By: DankBird77 When: Dec 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Visited mid December and temps were mid 40s and sunny. Climbing was great. Found a couple of routes to be a bit sandbagged but in general had a great time and it was good climbing. Nights were down in the 30s and 20s so went to Chattanooga for dinner each night. Camped at Raccoon Mtn and we were the only campers. Bathrooms at Plot were super nice, as was signage and falls. Congrats to South Cumberland group for doing a great job with this crag~
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Location: TN : Cherokee Bluff (CLOSED TO C...
By: DankBird77 When: Dec 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone know why this place was closed? Was it by the people who own the big ass house on the hill or by the city??? Any work on getting it open ever again?
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : A Day in the Life (5.11b)
By: DankBird77 When: Dec 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Found the route to be quite techy and sequency. I think I was able to skip that big hold way out right after the dish. Dont think its necessary and might even throw you off sequence.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dog Wall : Pleasure Dog (aka It's a Bi... (5.10b)
By: DankBird77 When: Dec 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Found this more pleasurable than Cat Walk.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dog Wall
By: DankBird77 When: Dec 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gets good sun. Good for cold weather climbing.
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