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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas : Dromedary Peak : Photo
By: Daniel Winder When: May 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's actually Sunrise Peak in the center. Dromedary is just sneaking in the left side of the photo.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : Riptide Wall : Jazz the Glass (5.11+)
By: Daniel Winder When: Nov 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Steve, I went to climb Dirty Rotten Horror the other night and noticed Jazz's bolts. You asked for feedback so I'll share my thoughts.
The first half of DRH is climbed to access the bolts, where you are supposed to get on the arete is unclear. All of Jazz's bolts can easily be clipped from DRH. The lower bolts would be in an awkward position to protect but the last bolt is right at a protectable stance on DRH. As seen in your photo, the 2 routes definately share holds. You compare Jazz to Astro... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : Riptide Wall : Dirty Rotten Horror (5.10b)
By: Daniel Winder When: Nov 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are about 4 bolts on this route now. Also, the anchor bolts have multiplied.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Bell's Beast : Beast (5.11a)
By: Daniel Winder When: Nov 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't need any gear until pitch 4. A single rack is more than enough, leave the doubles and C3s home. We accidentally solo'd pitch 2 and pitch 5 is just a short scramble. 3 and 4 are the good pitches. Lots of long slings for 4th pitch is a good idea.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Fucoidal Quartzite : Community Effort (5.10a)
By: Daniel Winder When: Sep 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: First gopro aid ascent of a bolted crack in logan canyon?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : Bob's Rocking Chair : Allergic Reaction (5.9 PG13) : Photo
By: Daniel Winder When: Sep 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where the second pitch jogs left I went right because it seemed cleaner. The traverse under the roof was cool. We walked off west.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Unknown (5.9)
By: Daniel Winder When: Aug 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Needlessly PG-13. The last bolt is way too low to prevent a ledge fall if you somehow blew it going over the roof.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Booty Wall Area : Pirate Treasure (5.11)
By: Daniel Winder When: Jul 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Got a sweet handjam and high feet and skipped the sloper. Awesome pitch, slightly shitty belay. No loose rock anywhere on the route.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coal Pit Buttress : Stiffler's Mom (5.11a) : Photo
By: Daniel Winder When: Jul 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: He's doing it different than I do and he fell right after this picture was taken. Sweet go for the onsight though man!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Back of Beyond : Photo
By: Daniel Winder When: Jul 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm guessing the quality rating of the routes are as well;) Looks like a nice little area. Stoked to check it out when the mercury falls below triple digits
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Broads Fork : Photo
By: Daniel Winder When: Jun 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the topo. Dumb broads actually climbs the white streak to the left of the red line.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : East Hellgate : ... : Antidote (5.10a)
By: Daniel Winder When: Jun 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a 1 bolt extention and another anchor above the first set. Don't bother going to the upper anchor, the climbing is super easy and chossy.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coal Pit Buttress : DoggyStyle (5.10+)
By: Daniel Winder When: Jun 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first pitch traverses left more than is indicated in the topo. A fall would likely drop you over the edge of a razor sharp arete. Spooky, maybe consider double ropes. The climbing is slightly contrived but the third pitch roof is great. At the top of the route make an easy left traverse to the base of the money pitch on Stifflers.
Edit: Ok, "razor sharp" is a bit dramatic, but it's still sharp enough to wreak havoc on the cord, IMO
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : China Wall : Oboe (5.12a/b)
By: Daniel Winder When: Apr 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't really like having to do any of the hard moves. Can we drill this entire wall down to 5.9? It would be way more convenient for me.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : Ubud Wall
By: Daniel Winder When: Apr 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: ACCESS ALERT:
This property has new ownership. I spoke with the new owner, a friendly gentleman who informed me that climbing is not allowed on the property due to liability concerns. He did say that a company called "White Pine Touring" occasionally leases out the land for climbing. He also mentioned that he really wanted nothing to do with climbing at all but that it brings people through the property. The property's new name is Louland Falls.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : Pharaoh's Hat
By: Daniel Winder When: Apr 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: ACCESS ALERT:
This property has new ownership. I spoke with the new owner, a friendly gentleman who informed me that climbing is not allowed on the property due to liability concerns. He did say that a company called "White Pine Touring" occasionally leases out the land for climbing. He also mentioned that he really wanted nothing to do with climbing at all but that it brings people through the property. The property's new name is Louland Falls.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : Pharaoh's Glen
By: Daniel Winder When: Apr 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: ACCESS ALERT:
This property has new ownership. I spoke with the new owner, a friendly gentleman who informed me that climbing is not allowed on the property due to liability concerns. He did say that a company called "White Pine Touring" occasionally leases out the land for climbing. He also mentioned that he really wanted nothing to do with climbing at all but that it brings people through the property. The property's new name is Louland Falls.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : New Thin Slab (5.11b/c)
By: Daniel Winder When: Jan 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Like Ryan, I hopped on this thinking it was Comfort Zone and would make a nice cool down. Its low angle and tight bolting are deceptive because there are very few actual holds on the route. I finally made the anchor after being spit off repeatedly. The third bolt was a very awkward clip. Hard.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Unimpeachable Groping (5.10+)
By: Daniel Winder When: Oct 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Topped out just as it got dark. One double rope rap put us comfortably in the bowl and three more double raps down power failure to the ground. Bring 2 ropes! The power failure raps are down a smooth face with little risk of hangups. The route itself is exposed and vertical for its entire length, very cool.
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Location: UT : Cedar City : Cedar Canyon
By: Daniel Winder When: Oct 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A massive landslide has wiped out the road ~5 miles up the canyon. As of today, there was no apparent clean-up/repair project underway yet. It looks like it may be closed for a while.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : Sport Utility Wall
By: Daniel Winder When: Sep 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: You didn't look around the corner left of Suzuki's. I wouldn't call this place amazing and HSS is the only real reason to visit the area, but it gets sun all winter and is a good choice if you're short on time and want to catch a quick run in January.
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Location: International : Asia : Iraq : Task Force Ghost (V2- R)
By: Daniel Winder When: Aug 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow! I guess the grade also includes the difficulty in getting to the start of the actual technical climbing. Seriously man, get home safe and climb some real rock.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Powder Ridge Wall : Bat Bastards (5.9+)
By: Daniel Winder When: Jul 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool chimney and OW moves to a hanging sword below the chains. Don't bring any cams. Fun route.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Powder Ridge Wall : Defiance (5.11a)
By: Daniel Winder When: Jul 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first crux can easily be skipped by going to jugs out right. Doing that probably makes the route a one move wonder 5.10.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : The Tormented Lesbian (5.10a)
By: Daniel Winder When: Jul 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Are TL and LS the same route? There's only one line right of Endless Torment unless I was really missing something...
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