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Final steps up Blanca after a snowy traverse. <br /> <br />Photo by Jason Halladay.


Member Since: Oct 14, 2007
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 423
Total Points: 1,403
Last Year: 66
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Daniel Trugman been climbing?










Contributions


All 2279 | Routes 86 | Areas 5 | Photos 53 | Page Improvements | Comments 203 | Posts 34 | Stars 1025 | Ratings 873
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Juno Tower : Kicking It Old Testament (5.9)
By: Daniel Trugman When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: Go for it, as far as I'm concerned! Thanks for asking, and for offering to improve the route.

Daniel


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : West (Center) Face
By: Daniel Trugman When: Sep 22, 2012

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Comments: Thanks for clarifying, Lee! I hope the new line works out. Looks cool.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : West (Center) Face
By: Daniel Trugman When: Sep 21, 2012

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Comments: There are three sets of chains on the West Face (to the right of the ones for Full Rubber Mission). I presume the ones on the right are for Zee Wicked and Ripped Van Winkle and the next ones to the left are for Mad Hatter. I don't know anything about the furthest left anchors. Can anyone clarify which starts/finishes correspond to which routes?


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : The Thing (5.13-)
By: Daniel Trugman When: Aug 11, 2012

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Comments: I thought the finish up the arete was really cool! It's probably not 5.13, but it seemed substantially harder than To Beer or Not to Beer and other mid 5.12's I've done at El Rito, so 5.12+ seems about right. Highly recommended, especially if the original finish feels a bit too tough, as it did for me.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Walt's Wall (aka The Outsid... : Electric Pet Gri-Gri (5.11d)
By: Daniel Trugman When: Aug 11, 2012

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Comments: 5.11+ seemed fair to me. Definitely much easier than Whipper Wonderland and Against All Cobbs! Maybe you were just tired after climbing those two, haha? I think I was climbing a foot or two to the left of the bolt line when the climbing got hard, but I don't remember too well. I was just following the chalk, to be honest.

This is actually a pretty fun route. The rock is a bit fragile in places, but the quality would improve with more traffic.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : The Amphitheater : Poligrip (5.12b)
By: Daniel Trugman When: Jul 15, 2012

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Comments: If climbing this in one pitch, it is helpful to do some back-cleaning and use long runners on the 5.8 approach. Whether climbed in one pitch or two, the super-steep and surprisingly technical climbing on the upper headwall is well worth the effort to get there!


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Black Wall : The Reverend Mr. Black (5.12-)
By: Daniel Trugman When: Jul 8, 2012

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Comments: This was a better climb than I was anticipating, given all the negative reviews I've heard. The rock quality isn't great, but the climbing through the crux bulge and upper slab is actually quite fun.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil Wall : Astro Devil (5.11+)
By: Daniel Trugman When: Jul 4, 2012

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Comments: This is an excellent route, with eclectic and sustained climbing the whole way up! Nice work, Aaron!

The first pitch is a bit awkward but the climbing is actually quite fun and makes you think. The second pitch is crimpy and technical, and the third tackles a series of fun roofs, with cool face climbing in between. I thought the 2nd pitch was the most difficult, but all three pitches involve sustained 5.11 climbing.

The climb stays in the shade in summer until around 12 or 1pm.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : North (Left) Face : Full Rubber Mission (5.12b)
By: Daniel Trugman When: Jun 24, 2012

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Comments: Fun route! The rest at the first anchors detracts a bit, but the route would be much, much harder without it! Definitely not over until you clip the (second set of) chains!

To help mitigate rope drag on the tough finish, it's helpful to back-clean as much as possible or use long draws/slings on the lower part.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Cockscomb Crag : Poultrygeist Area : Cock -a-doodle-do (5.11c)
By: Daniel Trugman When: Mar 30, 2012

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Comments: Neat route! I haven't climbed many 5.11s with cruxes as committing and memorable as the dyno on this one!


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Clovis Hunter (5.12b)
By: Daniel Trugman When: Nov 24, 2011

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Comments: Really neat route with lots of variety and interesting movement. Seemed noticeably harder than Lucy or Cro Magnon, so I'm more inclined toward 5.12b. The direct finish through the upper roof is really wild and fun and I definitely recommend that over the anti-climactic original finish. As Lee said, the direct finish doesn't change the rating because its easier than the crux moves down lower, but it's pretty exciting nonetheless.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Hidden Tower : Gnosis (5.11d)
By: Daniel Trugman When: Sep 24, 2011

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Comments: Great, thanks for the info! I thought Gnosis was a bit easier than Cryptonomicon, maybe 5.11d and 5.12a? But my partner thought it was the other way around, 5.12a and 5.11d. As you say, Cryptonomicon is really tough to read, so maybe it's more deceptive than hard? Anyway, both are super fun, but I think I liked Dissimulation best of all. Really wild climbing.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Hidden Tower : Gnosis (5.11d)
By: Daniel Trugman When: Sep 24, 2011

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Comments: Is this the middle-left or middle-right climb at the crag? I climbed both (along with the far left one) today, and they both kind of fit the description, though the middle-left has 5 bolts and the middle-right has 7 bolts.

All three are great climbs! Thanks for your hard work on the route development!


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Positive Vibrations (5.11a)
By: Daniel Trugman When: Sep 16, 2011

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Comments: I have to disagree with the above comment about setting up the intermediate belay on the crux pitch (P6). That's one of the coolest pitches I've ever done, and breaking it up would be a real shame. The gear is good for the final crux, and rope drag isn't that bad. Plus the belay ledge right after the crux is really neat.

I do agree that P3 is substantially easier than P6, but 5.10a is probably a big sandbag for those under 6'.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Spaghetti Western Wall Area : Code of the West (5.11d)
By: Daniel Trugman When: Aug 29, 2011

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Comments: Fun climbing on good rock, kind of like a harder version of Cowboy Up. Protects well, though the pro takes a bit of thought to place. Though the rack beta suggests to go heavy on the finger sizes, I was happy to have more fingertip-sized pro and a good selection of nuts.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : Buddha's Beer Belly (5.12a)
By: Daniel Trugman When: Aug 12, 2011

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Comments: Thanks, DTP. I took another look at this today, and the route indeed has its own anchors: well-hidden cold shuts.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Pervertical Sanctuary (5.11a)
By: Daniel Trugman When: Aug 5, 2011

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Comments: You don't need a 70m rope to do the North Face rappels, a single 60m will work. If you do chose to top out on Long's (recommended, at least once), it's probably best/fastest just to do these raps (the first raps described by Hoag above) and scramble down The Camel (class 2) back to the upper end of the lake and your bivy.

Oh yeah, and this route is amazing! Have fun!


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Holthouse to Hell (5.11-)
By: Daniel Trugman When: Jul 31, 2011

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Comments: I did the original start (or whatever the line just left of the Direct Start is...) today and thought it was quite nice. The bolt in question looked new to me, but I guess I didn't check too closely. In my opinion, this is a great way to enjoy the best parts of the climb, even if you're not quite up to Direct Start.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : Buddha's Beer Belly (5.12a)
By: Daniel Trugman When: Jul 30, 2011

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Comments: Does this thing have its own anchors? I thought the movement was pretty fun (probably worth 2 stars), but making the 20-foot traverse left to Village Cobbler seemed a bit silly. According to the picture in Rock Climbing New Mexico, the climb should have its own anchors, but I couldn't spot them from the ground or from the fourth bolt.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Fat Boys Don't Fly (5.12)
By: Daniel Trugman When: Jul 29, 2011

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Comments: Finally got a chance to lead this yesterday. It's not quite as good as I remembered, but still a fun climb. The crux, at least the way I did it, involves several big moves between big holds, but definitely nothing I would call a dyno. I would say 5.12a is fair for this beta, though I bet some people might find it soft for the grade if they are better at steep, pumpy climbing than they are at the technical face climbing ubiquitous to WR.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Meat Wall : James Brown's Wild Ride (5.12a)
By: Daniel Trugman When: Jul 25, 2011

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Comments: I really enjoyed this route: very technical, with continuous and engaging movement. Not at all runout anymore, 10-11 bolts to chains. I agree it's closer to 11d than 12a.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Vista Verde Crag : 4. Afterburner Face : Afterburner (5.12a)
By: Daniel Trugman When: Jul 9, 2011

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Comments: This route is awesome; my favorite sport route in the Gorge so far, and one of the best I've done in Northern NM. Thanks for the hard work here and at the other nearby crags!


Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : Piedra River : Piedra River - Lower West : Wild Hops (5.12)
By: Daniel Trugman When: Jun 29, 2011

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Comments: Very cool climb! The rock is immaculate and the climbing is really engaging and fun. Since you asked, I did indeed send it (second go, couldn't pull off the OS). I think I met Alex at El Rito, NM, a few weekends ago and he mentioned this route. Needless to say, I was not disappointed. Congrats on finding such a great line.


Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : Piedra River : Piedra River - Lower West
By: Daniel Trugman When: Jun 29, 2011

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Comments: Thanks for the hard work on the route development! We spent a couple afternoons climbing here and truly enjoyed it. Really fun climbing in a beautiful setting. My favorites were "Wild Hops" and "Smokin' Stems", but I liked pretty much everything I got on.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Pirate's Wall : Pirated (5.12a)
By: Daniel Trugman When: Jun 25, 2011

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Comments: I was actually pleasantly surprised by this route. While it definitely isn't as good as some of its neighbors, the climbing is clean, sustained and pretty fun. Clipping the anchors is a bit tricky but not unreasonable. No lowering hardware at present, just chains. Be prepared to clean it.


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