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Member Since: Oct 18, 2013
Last Visit: Apr 11, 2014
Contact Daniel Nelson


Point Rank: # 10,655
Total Points: 16
Last Year: 16
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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Contributions


All (30) | Routes | Areas | Photos | Comments (16) | Posts | Stars (14) | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : The Citadel : Biltong Rides Tornado (5.10c)
By: Daniel Nelson When: Oct 29, 2013

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Comments: Great route - fantastic moves with quality holds. one of my favorite routes in sinks.


Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Hardware Wall : No Left Ear (5.10d)
By: Daniel Nelson When: Oct 29, 2013

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Comments: Fantastic route. Well bolted with great holds. Felt 10c.


Location: WY : Jackson Hole : Rock Springs Buttress : Tolle Route (aka Guide's Ro... (5.8)
By: Daniel Nelson When: Oct 29, 2013

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Comments: One of my favorite trad climbs in the teton area (more continuous quality climbing than guides wall in GTNP imo). Every pitch is quality rock and enjoyable. Undercling move on last pitch is spectacular. Nice to have copious bolted anchors as well.


Location: WY : Jackson Hole : Rock Springs Buttress : Monkey Flower (5.10a)
By: Daniel Nelson When: Oct 29, 2013

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Comments: Intimidating traverse to start to thin face climbing - very sequency with some of the best holds difficult to pick out on initial look. No one move is harder than 5.10a, but felt very sustained. A tad run-out. Hit up Birthday Suit further down the Buttress for a more cruiser 5.10a. I've done easier 10b/c than this. None of the above takes away from the high quality.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Skyline (5.8)
By: Daniel Nelson When: Oct 29, 2013

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Comments: Fantastic Route mostly because of view from top/location. A 70m rope is enough to comfortably rap on. Intimidating Undercling start probably 5.8, but well protected with small gear prior to committing fully. The vast majority of this route is cruiser 5.6/7. Must do!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - West : Rollercoaster (5.9)
By: Daniel Nelson When: Oct 29, 2013

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Comments: Well bolted 5.8. Big patinas start to finish. Great warmup. Great for a first sport lead as well.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Decadent Wall : Nipples and Clits (5.10a PG13)
By: Daniel Nelson When: Oct 29, 2013

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Comments: Stick clip the first bolt - looks runout but easy climbing to second and third bolt - crux after the third bolt is well protected. Great warmup - 5.9 cruiser other than crux move. Can top-rope the stout 11a directly to the left.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - West : Delay of Game (5.8)
By: Daniel Nelson When: Oct 29, 2013

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Comments: This is a long slab climb start to finish. If you are not comfortable on slab, it will probably feel much more intimidating than 5.8 (as it did to me the first time I climbed it). Great training, however, if you need to become more comfortable on friction routes.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Anteater Rock : Anteater - West : Scream Cheese (5.9)
By: Daniel Nelson When: Oct 29, 2013

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Comments: Fantastic - great location/view. Great variety of climbing. Slab on top not as runout as many other slab finishes in the City. Hit up this on your way back to the lot after doing Skyline for an amazing morning of climbing.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - West : Scream Machine (5.10a R)
By: Daniel Nelson When: Oct 29, 2013

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Comments: Still unsure the safest way to the first bolt on this route - I tip-toed my way up a slab to climbers right of the start. Another option would be to climb directly up and clip a runner through the first bolt of the climb to the immediate left. It did feel sketchy getting to the first bolt proper. I got some good advice to bring a #2 cam to protect the move to the first bolt as even after a huge runout you still need to get on the face to make the clip. It's not hard, but it's death if you ... more >>


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : East Sector : Comp Rock : Comp Rock - East Face : Mantle Dynamics (5.10b)
By: Daniel Nelson When: Oct 29, 2013

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Comments: One of the most unique climbs I've ever had the pleasure of doing - extremely fun. So well bolted, you feel like you're on top rope the whole climb. Bring 18 draws if you plan to clip them all - I was able to comfortably retrieve draws below me at least 6 times to conserve.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : West Buttress - South : Shock and Awe (5.10a)
By: Daniel Nelson When: Oct 29, 2013

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Comments: One of my fav routes of all time. Mentally challenging more than physically - thin edges for feet and hands on very positive face with spaced out bolts. A must do in the city/castle area.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - West : Colossus (5.10c)
By: Daniel Nelson When: Oct 29, 2013

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Comments: Very Do-able 10c - IMO 3 powerful 10c moves and the rest is cruiser. Tricky getting to the bolt under the crux, but then well protected fantastic finish. I'd Stick clip the first bolt unless very comfortable on polished slab.


Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Brisket : The Guyver (5.10b)
By: Daniel Nelson When: Oct 18, 2013

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Comments: great short but fun route. a must do. one of my favorites. definitely 10a.


Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Killer Cave : Action Candy (5.9+)
By: Daniel Nelson When: Oct 18, 2013

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Comments: extremely well bolted (16 of them). fantastic pockets start to finish. my personal favorite route at sinks. mostly 5.9 with a few 5.10a moves. cruxy move over a bulge at the top.


Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : The Citadel : Fun Planet (5.10a)
By: Daniel Nelson When: Oct 18, 2013

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Comments: slabby start is actually enjoyable. followed by poorly bolted, run out dihedral with few solid feet. My least favorite route ever climbed at sinks. skip it.


Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Colossus 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

ID : City of Rocks : ... : Bath Rock - West

Shock and Awe 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

ID : Castle Rocks : ... : West Buttress - South

Tolle Route (aka Guide's Route) 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

WY : Rock Springs Buttress

Scream Cheese 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

ID : City of Rocks : ... : Anteater - West

Intruding Dike 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

ID : City of Rocks : ... : Bloody Fingers Corridor

Skyline 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire

No Left Ear 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

WY : Sinks Canyon : Hardware Wall

Monkey Flower 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

WY : Rock Springs Buttress

Rollercoaster 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

ID : City of Rocks : ... : Bath Rock - West

Nipples and Clits 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13

ID : City of Rocks : ... : Decadent Wall

Scream Machine 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R

ID : City of Rocks : ... : Bath Rock - West

Mantle Dynamics 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

ID : Castle Rocks : ... : Comp Rock - East Face

Biltong Rides Tornado 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

WY : Sinks Canyon : The Citadel

Delay of Game 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

ID : City of Rocks : ... : Parking Lot Rock - West

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