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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : C'est What? (5.11b)
By: Dane Casterson When: Mar 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was on this a couple of days ago with Dave Holliday and the starting flake is getting a little scary. I would recommend either using another hold or placing some gear in the crack near the start of JtR. A .75 cam was perfect. As far as gear for the start i really didnt see anything. Stay right and the holds are all incut jugs. I am tall and can casually reach from jug to jug. May be a little more committing if you are on the shorter side.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Free Speech (5.12a)
By: Dane Casterson When: Feb 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: How far are the anchors above the second bolt? Are they just above on the slab?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - top to Xanadu : Ice Nine (5.6)
By: Dane Casterson When: Feb 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is anyone going to make the Kurt Vonnegut reference?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Vie (5.11b)
By: Dane Casterson When: Feb 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: On the dihedral pitch, tread lightly on the flake that is on the left wall by the finger lock after the crux. It flexed severely when I tested it and I think it would come with a little persuasion.
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Location: International : Mexico : El Potrero Chico : The Outrage Wall
By: Dane Casterson When: Jan 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Photos coming soon.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Knapping With The Alien (5.12-)
By: Dane Casterson When: Oct 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Any word on how that last pin before the anchors is fairing? Spring '07 it was getting a little wobbly.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Joy and Tribulation (5.9 R)
By: Dane Casterson When: Oct 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The chimney pitch is absolutely amazing! In the wide section down low there is currently a fixed #3 Camalot just left of the scary pin.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : King's X (5.10d)
By: Dane Casterson When: Jun 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lots of hollow rock down low but good where you need it. The anchor above and right of the crux roof is bomber.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : Pinnacle (5.11a)
By: Dane Casterson When: Jun 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Make sure you nail the initial moves and place a lot of pro if you are shaky at all at this grade. I busted off the first moves, and I almost left my chin on a sharp ledge that you start on by the pillar. Felt tough.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Rincon (5.11a)
By: Dane Casterson When: Jun 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did pitches 1, 2, and 3 today. I agree with Tony B. Is is quite safe. I am an aspiring 11 leader, and I felt fine on it today although I did fall while turning the crux. It's a relatively easy stem up to the nut placement that is completely bomber. Don't be scared off, because it's really not that bad. A bolt would certainly detract from this climb.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Vertigo (5.11b)
By: Dane Casterson When: May 31, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic route! On the dihedral pitch, there is a fixed cam down low, a fixed nut, a pin, and another fixed nut. The fixed pieces sew up the crux section very nicely. And on the roof section, there is a large, fixed chock that has been slung and a 0.5 Camalot at the lip. The 0.5 will definitely hold some falls! Awesome!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Huston Crack (5.8+)
By: Dane Casterson When: May 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely wide. It's possible to to get good fist jams through the wide section if you reach deep enough.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Box : Hand Crack (5.9)
By: Dane Casterson When: May 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Grovel Grovel 10a? Grovel, Grovel.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Ruper (5.8+)
By: Dane Casterson When: May 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the pins on upper rupper in the rotten band is now gone. I think it was the middle pin. My second gently wiggled it out, and it now resides in my back seat. I hope that nobody has clipped this thing in the last ten years, as it wouldn't have held any weight and is actually S-shaped. Still better than some of the fixed pins I have seen in Eldo.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Crackhouse
By: Dane Casterson When: Apr 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good description Jordan. Surprised that nothing from this area has been added already. If you havent been there make a point of it. Real tough but a lot of fun. I have a low clearance car that made it no problem. Inside the cave there is everything, thin, hands, and fist. And its completely overhanging with good landings! Once you get pumped inside the cave there is a great traverse outside of the cave. The traverse is long but there are no hard moves. Dont forget the tape.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Skeletonic (5.11d PG13)
By: Dane Casterson When: Apr 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route a year ago for the first time and was knocked unconscious from the whip I took after the last bolt. Did it again over the weekend and it is definitely a great route. Comforting to the ego to finally see that its more than 5.10! In my opinion its the best bolted route on Potash. Also, I did it without gear and it thought it was protected well enough with just the bolts other than at the very top where you cant get gear anyway.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Bad Moki Roof (5.9)
By: Dane Casterson When: Apr 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tough at 5.9 but i dont have much experience in the desert. Found one jug under the lip of the roof but it got a little desperate for me after that. Am i missing something or is this route a good representation of what desert 5.9 crack moves feel like?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Star Wars (5.8)
By: Dane Casterson When: Sep 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route. The uniform crack on P2 makes for some strenuous laybacking on P2 depending on handsize.
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Location: Possible Alien's Changes
By: Dane Casterson When: Jul 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have yellow and red aliens in the new style and so far like them more than the old style. They are certainly more flexible and as far as I can tell just as durable. As far a overflexing goes, I dont see any potential problems. In my opinion, the changes only improve their performance.
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