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Member Since: Apr 3, 2011
Last Visit: Jan 22, 2014
Contact dancesatmoonrise


Point Rank: # 877
Total Points: 749
Last Year: 124
Last 30 Days: 0
65 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has dancesatmoonrise been climbing?










Contributions


All 298 | Routes 2 | Areas 1 | Photos 133 | Page Improvements | Comments 49 | Posts 54 | Stars 33 | Ratings 26
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : West Face : ... : Photo
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Oct 30, 2013

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Comments: Agreed! Even better, replace the ugly, huge coldshuts with standard 1/2" hangers. These dudes are 16 years old and still holding up well, but the shuts are archaic.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Unusual Weather (5.11b/c)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Oct 26, 2013

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Comments: Classic. One of the best.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Center Route (5.9+)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Oct 3, 2013

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Comments: Just did this yesterday. Here's our thoughts on the route after reading the above and being there.

1. Park packs, and gear up, just before the start of the fourth class section which leads to the first belay (but avoid the rockfall area - see below). This avoids humping heavy packs up fourth class. A 70m rope will deliver you right to the packs on the final rap.

2. As others have said, #1 and #2 Camalots are the main sizes for the crux pitch. We had, and used on Center Route,... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : Purple Toe Nails (5.11c)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Sep 29, 2013

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Comments: Ditto the post on the guidebook error. Toxxic and Toenails are reversed in the book. Toxxic is to the right, and has the cool flake halfway up. It's also a fun route.

Purple Toe Nails is a mighty fine route. Nothing too technical, but any errors are immediately compounded by the sustained pump factor in the last 20-25 feet of climbing.

Exciting, sustained, well-bolted, classic Shelf stuff.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Byrd's : Freebase (5.11d)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: Anyone have more photos? God, I'd like to see a photo looking up from our belay out to the underside of that crack, or a shot of someone walking it with all fours in the crack. All I have is this mental image - from ...29 years ago. : (


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Lime Street (5.11b) : Photo
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: Sweet!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Lime Street (5.11b)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: I'm reminded again today what a stellar route this is.

Could do without the old SMC hangers on bolts 2-6. But overall, brilliant climbing, right up to the last pumpy section at the anchors.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : East Face : Beat Me Up, Scotty (5.10d)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Jul 12, 2013

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Comments: This route is harder than 10d. It is possible to move a couple feet right at the first three pins and get the 10d rating, as a friend did today. Going straight up over the pins is harder and is how I've always done it.

Given the sporty nature of the line, I'd rate it using Shelf standards, for which it's pretty clearly around 11b. Way harder than others at the grade in the Garden, and harder than some of the 11a's in the Garden as well. Just my 2c.

Interesting that the low crux is prote... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Quarry Wall : Old'n (5.5) : Photo
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Jul 3, 2013

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Comments: Sweet!


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : North Face / North End : Anaconda (5.11c)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: May 5, 2013

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Comments: Hey, Leo, thanks.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : North Face / North End : Anaconda (5.11c)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Apr 24, 2013

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Comments: I heard Anaconda will be closed soon, till September. Anyone know when? Is it still currently open?

Thanks.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Sabino Canyon : Kor Wall (5.8+)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: Did this route in the late 70s. Guessing it's still a classic.

RIP, Layton Cor.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak : Photo
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Dec 24, 2012

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Comments: Looks solid to me.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Legend on the Fall (5.12a/b)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Dec 23, 2012

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Comments: Nice going, Brett. We were on it yesterday and enjoyed it.

First crux was fun, thin, technical. Second crux was pretty hard. Rest before you get there. You'll need it.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Voodoo Child (5.10+)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Dec 21, 2012

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Comments: Interesting that it's been bumped up to 10d/11a. I used to love this route. A little story-telling here...

Roughly 1979. I was in the Summit Hut inquiring about a partner for the weekend. Don't recall the fellow's name, but supposedly a very strong climber, but he hadn't been climbing in a while; Jim gave me his number. Well, I called the guy and we were on. I was the young buck, the upstart, the newbie. Flash forward to Saturday.

We're on the crux pitch. I'm trying to lead... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Turbo Charged, Inter-Cooled... (5.10b/c)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Dec 15, 2012

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Comments: Always pretty much agreed with Mark's 10a/b rating (1990 guidebook) but have seen a lot of better climbers having considerable trouble on it.

Personally, I enjoy the route. Great warm-up.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : 2150 A.D. (5.10d)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Dec 15, 2012

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Comments: I love this crack. Very fun route. The crack section is soft for the grade, compared to other trad lines. But the face up top is hard, and not nearly as much fun.

The two top anchor bolts are into rock which has cracked loose about an inch above the bolts. A third bolt was apparently added, at left and lower, but is a loose 3/8" stud with a 1/2" cold shut hanger. This anchor needs to be replaced.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Stick It (5.10d)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Dec 15, 2012

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Comments: I did not care for this route.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Lost Planet Airman (5.11c)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Dec 15, 2012

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Comments: Darryl, you were just climbing waaay good back then!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Emperor's Robe (5.11d)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Dec 15, 2012

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Comments: Hit it last week with one brief take at the crux. Not feeling as well today, and it was cold, but somehow pulled it clean. Must say, very fun route. I feel most of the route is easier than the grade, with one clear crux at the top. John B demurs.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Muscle Beach (5.11a/b)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Dec 2, 2012

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Comments: Sweet OS this afternoon. Agree the 11 a/b rating is perhaps just a tad soft. Also agree that it is totally classic. True that there is not really any technical crux, but in the upper half is a section that was interesting and had to be worked out without a great rest. Stays on ya most of the upper half. Very well protected, solid modern gear after the fourth bolt. Gave it four stars.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : West Face : Rainbow Bridge (5.10+)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Nov 18, 2012

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Comments: Rolofson calls it 5.11- (Hubbel & Rolofson, 1988, p 236.)


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Heaven is Waiting (5.10+)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Nov 18, 2012

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Comments: Fun route, well-protected, definitely due to be another Shelf classic!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Abu Simbel (5.10a)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Nov 18, 2012

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Comments: One of the guys today said Bob R. has this as 10c in his new guidebook. There's two harder moves on the route that would make it hard to argue against that rating. Always subjective, of course, but they did seem harder than typical 10a's for the area.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Tuff Shed (aka B&C) (5.10a)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Nov 18, 2012

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Comments: Sweet warm-up! Highly recommended. Thanks, Bill!


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