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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : North Face / North End : Anaconda (5.11c)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: May 5, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey, Leo, thanks.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : North Face / North End : Anaconda (5.11c)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Apr 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I heard Anaconda will be closed soon, till September. Anyone know when? Is it still currently open?
Thanks.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Sabino Canyon : Kor Wall (5.8+)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Apr 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route in the late 70s. Guessing it's still a classic.
RIP, Layton Cor.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak : Photo
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Dec 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks solid to me.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Legend on the Fall (5.12a/b)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Dec 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice going, Brett. We were on it yesterday and enjoyed it.
First crux was fun, thin, technical. Second crux was pretty hard. Rest before you get there. You'll need it.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Summit Crags : ... : Voodoo Child (5.10+)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Dec 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Interesting that it's been bumped up to 10d/11a. I used to love this route. A little story-telling here...
Roughly 1979. I was in the Summit Hut inquiring about a partner for the weekend. Don't recall the fellow's name, but supposedly a very strong climber, but he hadn't been climbing in a while; Jim gave me his number. Well, I called the guy and we were on. I was the young buck, the upstart, the newbie. Flash forward to Saturday.
We're on the crux pitch. I'm trying to lead... more >>
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Turbo Charged, Inter-Cooled... (5.10b/c)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Dec 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Always pretty much agreed with Mark's 10a/b rating (1990 guidebook) but have seen a lot of better climbers having considerable trouble on it.
Personally, I enjoy the route. Great warm-up.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : 2150 A.D. (5.10d)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Dec 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I love this crack. Very fun route. The crack section is soft for the grade, compared to other trad lines. But the face up top is hard, and not nearly as much fun.
The two top anchor bolts are into rock which has cracked loose about an inch above the bolts. A third bolt was apparently added, at left and lower, but is a loose 3/8" stud with a 1/2" cold shut hanger. This anchor needs to be replaced.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Stick It (5.10d)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Dec 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did not care for this route.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Lost Planet Airman (5.11c)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Dec 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Darryl, you were just climbing waaay good back then!
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Emperor's Robe (5.11d)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Dec 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hit it last week with one brief take at the crux. Not feeling as well today, and it was cold, but somehow pulled it clean. Must say, very fun route. I feel most of the route is easier than the grade, with one clear crux at the top. John B demurs.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Muscle Beach (5.11a/b)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Dec 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sweet OS this afternoon. Agree the 11 a/b rating is perhaps just a tad soft. Also agree that it is totally classic. True that there is not really any technical crux, but in the upper half is a section that was interesting and had to be worked out without a great rest. Stays on ya most of the upper half. Very well protected, solid modern gear after the fourth bolt. Gave it four stars.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : West Face : Rainbow Bridge (5.10+)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Nov 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rolofson calls it 5.11- (Hubbel & Rolofson, 1988, p 236.)
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Heaven is Waiting (5.10+)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Nov 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route, well-protected, definitely due to be another Shelf classic!
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Abu Simbel (5.10a)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Nov 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the guys today said Bob R. has this as 10c in his new guidebook. There's two harder moves on the route that would make it hard to argue against that rating. Always subjective, of course, but they did seem harder than typical 10a's for the area.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Tuff Shed (aka B&C) (5.10a)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Nov 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sweet warm-up! Highly recommended. Thanks, Bill!
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : 5.11 Arete (5.11)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Nov 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jason, correct. However, it's been known as "The Arete" since the days of Mark's first book (1990.) Same route. Classic 5.11 arete.
Not 100% sure, but seem to remember it's a Van Horn route.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Knot Too Many Roaches (5.10b) : Photo
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Nov 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We really enjoyed this route.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Lime Street (5.11b)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Nov 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Classic Shelf. Sweet line. Don't miss this one.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Back Side Of The Bank : Photo
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Nov 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, Leo. Looking forward to Bob R's new book.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : West Face : Rainbow Bridge (5.10+)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Oct 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the pins above the potholes fell out this past June. We climbed it in May, it was there. In July, it was gone. It is still leadable without it, but it would sure would be safer if the missing one were replaced - along with the half-out ringed piton that starts the potholes traverse.
Along with T-Ex and Anaconda, one of the best routes in the Garden.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Knot Too Many Roaches (5.10b)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Oct 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tightened the anchor bolts today. However, not keen on the idea of 1/2" shuts on 3/8" studs. Will probably work loose again before long.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Lick and a Promise (5.10b/c)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Oct 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great pro. The technical crux is near the top. The roof is a jug haul with a couple of nice hand jams; the chimney is interesting. Overall, an enjoyable route.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Dumb Waiter (5.9+)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Oct 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: As to which route, the entry indicates the route is "located on the black face to the left of the Bulge Wall." Is anyone else confused about this? I believe he means to the RIGHT of the bulge wall.
I have some update notes in the original 1990 Van Horn guidebook that indicates Dumb Waiter is 10 feet right of the Bulge Wall, 4 bolts. That's pretty much what we've always considered to be the route.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Lick My Love Pump aka Love ... (5.10b/c)
By: dancesatmoonrise When: Oct 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I will second the motion in favor of keeping the low bolts on this ledge. They serve several purposes, the main one of which is to anchor the belay. They weren't there in the '90s, but I welcome their addition. A nice secondary purpose (probably not the primary purpose by the party that placed them) is having a solid low bolt for an anchor for solo belay.
We'd all still climb this excellent wall if someone pulled them, but it seems a shame that anyone would be so OCD as to destroy somethin... more >>
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