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Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon
By: Dana Prosser When: Apr 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Addition to rim rappel approach: after second bluff there is another r turn that is signed with a HR jeep route sign. Do not take this right turn, instead continue straight (through a wash) to the fire-ring. Road is a little faint at this point. Hike to the north about 1/4 mile to find the rim.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon : The Kachina Spires : Kachina Tower South (5.8 C0)
By: Dana Prosser When: Apr 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Descent into canyon: from where you park look directly across arm of canyon to north side. This series of ledges (looks improbable) leads you down to valley floor. The picture on route description shows a ledge that is crawled on to get there..
Route location: this route is located on the west side of the formation.
Route starts about 500ft to the right of beyond the 80th meridian. Climb several hundred feet up to the start of this route on slabby low angle rock.
Fun mellow adventure!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fringe Walls : Cactus Flower (5.10+)
By: Dana Prosser When: Oct 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The big cams (#5, #6 camalots) are only needed on P.2- leave them at the top of p.2 and collect them on rap to avoid carrying those boat anchors to the top.....
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Utopia : Adam-Ondi-Ahman (5.11-)
By: Dana Prosser When: Oct 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really fun crack that goes through all the sizes. Had that new route feel (aka breaking holds) Well protected throughout and an interesting lead!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Utopia : Spear of Destiny (5.9 PG13)
By: Dana Prosser When: Oct 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A really unique route with a cool summit. We found the climbing to be a little unnerving because of the unique style (full body stemming). Felt more like 5.9
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : P. Mosh Wall : Photo
By: Dana Prosser When: Jul 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Obvious roof on R side is where Dixie Electric Company and Disco Solitare are located.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull : Sunshine Dihedral (5.10a)
By: Dana Prosser When: Jun 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a second pitch to the climb twenty feet to the climber's left of the top of P1 (same 2nd pitch as Fever Dance). You'll see a dihedral with a crack and a wide slot above. The crux of the pitch is squirming through the slot (nice to have 1 #4 Camalot or #4 Friend). After topping out, walk climber's left and then scramble down skier's left back to the ledge and rappel off the chain anchors.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Charlie Horse Needle : Sims-Hesse-Hanning Route (5.11c)
By: Dana Prosser When: Apr 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: We brought the rack suggested in the write up, but felt like this was too much gear (and I am a whimp), Next time I would only bring one # 4.5 camalot, and bring only one or two #3 camalots. Also, you can bring only 2 # 4 friends if you use Big cam in R crack on P1
The descent is 2 raps from the top of P3 with a 70m rope (not 3).
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs : Mūmakil (5.10)
By: Dana Prosser When: Jan 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Either tape or good crack technique is helpful to keep the scuffage to a minimum....
This one is a little sharp!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Sharkstooth : Northeast Ridge (5.6)
By: Dana Prosser When: Jul 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Has anyone been up to the NE ridge recently?-wonder if any more of the snow has melted with all this warm weather... are crampons necessary?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : West Face (5.11-)
By: Dana Prosser When: Sep 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: After doing this route, this is the gear that I would recommend:
Set of nuts, single cams from smallest to .4 camalot, double set from 0.5-1 camalot, Triple set from 2-3 camalot, two x #4 friend, and one #4,#5,#6 camalot. Keep in mind that I like having gear nearby, so if you are a bold climber you may get away with carrying less.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : The Scenic Cruise (5.10d) : Photo
By: Dana Prosser When: Jun 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sergio- You better start being more polite! I would hate to have to meet you at the crag to kick your a$$.....
-The Captain
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : House Of Putterman : Walden's Room (5.10c)
By: Dana Prosser When: Mar 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Route is best done in 4 pitches. Pitch 3 is a scramble, but necessary to set up your partner for the last pitch. The rock quality deteriorates at the top and I took a fall near last pin when large foothold broke loose. Might be best to aid through this section?? Nice to have #5 and #6 Camalot for P2 Fatty (sl. sandbagged for 5.9).
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Block Tower : Hurt Dance (5.10-)
By: Dana Prosser When: Mar 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a shiny new bolt on pitch 3!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome : Connections (5.10a)
By: Dana Prosser When: Mar 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 1 starts up moderate cracks as described above. When crack run out, make a few spicy 5.9 slab moves to reach crack under 2nd roof (on right side of picture). We then encountered 2 lines of modern bolts that were about 7 ft apart. my partner climbed the left line of bolts which seemed harder than 10a (maybe 10b?). This was a long pitch 170ft or so. We started belaying from the ground, which created lots of rope drag for the 5.9 traverse-best to scramble up 75 feet of low angle crack to set ... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Block Tower : Queer Bait (5.11c) : Photo
By: Dana Prosser When: Feb 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Please disregard above comments, as Dr. OW (Sergio P) is clearly harboring pent up rage because he did not get to lead this beautiful fatty......
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Mainliner (5.9)
By: Dana Prosser When: May 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 5 variation- 5.10b (or so) after stepping left on pitch 4, continue up about 15 ft to a nice ledge. Look to your right and see a steep lieback crack (with some orange lichen) that traverse sl. left under a roof. This is a great protectable pitch, that offers a nice alternative to the standard 5th pitch.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Rim Shot (5.11-)
By: Dana Prosser When: Apr 26, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: some small to med. nuts will come in handy on the 2nd pitch. You can rap this route with one 70m rope (careful on 2nd rap- just reaches anchors)
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Powders of Persuasion (5.11)
By: Dana Prosser When: Apr 26, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can rap off this route with one 70m rope (three rappels)- short rap to notch, be careful on 2nd rap (just makes it to ledge-reach down to clip in with long sling), Rap to ground.
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