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Member Since: Nov 18, 2003
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 657
Total Points: 959
Last Year: 14
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Dana Bartlett been climbing?










Contributions


All 609 | Routes 89 | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 64 | Posts 364 | Stars 90 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Insuhlation (5.9)
By: Dana Bartlett When: Sep 24, 2014

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Comments: The description is spare (in Dana's customary fashion) but since he mentions the shallow open book I think he is correctly describing Insuhlation not Teeny Face.

As usual, Seth is correct.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Blueberry Wine (5.11a)
By: Dana Bartlett When: Jun 14, 2014

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Comments: I did lead this many years ago, and I recall the protection was adequate. If you came off pulling the roof it would be a bit of a splat.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : Tom's Wall & Next West Face : Off Limits (5.8)
By: Dana Bartlett When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: Just did it again - closer to 5.9.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Insuhlation (5.9)
By: Dana Bartlett When: May 1, 2014

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Comments: Some 70s are longer than others, I suppose. We had room to spare when we abseiled from the tree.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Easy Rider (5.9 PG13)
By: Dana Bartlett When: Apr 18, 2014

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Comments: Hi Simon,

I've done Easy Rider twice, once with Oenophore and the second time with Russ Clune; the second time I believe we might have done the FFA of the crux pitch, the section moving into the Alphonse corner that you asked about. No big deal that, the climb was originally rated 5.7 A1 and the aid section only required hanging from a couple of pitons for a few moves. As I recall those moves were 5.10 and involved some tricky footwork and inobvious footholds.
The route is a blast. ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : Sky Top : A Pilgrim's Progress (5.8)
By: Dana Bartlett When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: There is quite a bit of climbing past Pilgrim's Progress.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Mr. P's Wurst (5.8)
By: Dana Bartlett When: Mar 16, 2014

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Comments: After the overhang on pitch three you can go right instead of left and do the roof that is part of G Forces. Pretty wild 5.9.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Blunderbus (5.9+ R)
By: Dana Bartlett When: Oct 30, 2013

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Comments: I think if you search one of the Gunks reunion threads on Supetopo there is a picture of the bus incident.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Uncle Rudy (5.7+ PG13)
By: Dana Bartlett When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: I have to go with Seth here. I found a place after the roof for a small cam, and I didn't need to work hard or stretch too far.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : High Exposure (5.6)
By: Dana Bartlett When: Sep 7, 2013

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Comments: High Exposure was rated 5.7 in the 1964 guide. But it is 5.6.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Sultana (5.8 PG13)
By: Dana Bartlett When: Sep 6, 2013

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Comments: I've done both Scungilli and Sultana.
Fine routes, your resume is incomplete if you haven't done them.
Yesterday's Lemonade, Raspberry Sundae, Beyond the Fringe, Sheep Thrills - people walk right by these on their way to what? The McCarthy Wall, High E., etc.
I don't get it.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : Psycho Wall : Black Wallpaper (5.9 PG13)
By: Dana Bartlett When: Aug 22, 2013

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Comments: This climbs much better than it looks. Aside for the last bit - which didn't seem difficult - there are plenty of opportunites for protection.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : d. Harvest Moon to the End : Across From the Fruitstand (5.4)
By: Dana Bartlett When: May 23, 2013

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Comments: I didn't think this was particularly loose. Anyway, if it was climbed a bit more and cleaned up it would be popular (End of the Near Trapps popular) as the face climbing is exposed and very nice.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ursula (5.5)
By: Dana Bartlett When: May 17, 2013

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Comments: That P1 rappel pinch eats slings for breakfast

That's for sure.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : In The Groove (5.6)
By: Dana Bartlett When: May 17, 2013

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Comments: One of the few routes to be downgraded from its original rating. It was 5.7 in the 1964 guide.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : Tom's Wall & Next West Face : How It's Done (5.8-)
By: Dana Bartlett When: Apr 16, 2013

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Comments: Nice route. A strenuous, static crux move and then some engaging climbing to the top.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Fillipina (5.9)
By: Dana Bartlett When: Apr 6, 2013

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Comments: You might have done the crux of Lady's Lament.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : High Exposure (5.6)
By: Dana Bartlett When: Feb 10, 2013

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Comments: legend tells a story of a climber whose rope was chopped when he fell above the move, and his rope was pulled across the sharp lip of the roof. The legend says that he fell to the ground (!) but suffered only a broken ankle.

Definitely not a legend. Early, mid '80s? Anyway, free fall to the ground from just above the lip, crashing through the trees saved his life. I don't know the extent of his injuries, but I believe they were not particularly serious and far less than would be expe... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : Chalkboard Wall : Pop Quiz (5.8 PG13)
By: Dana Bartlett When: Feb 6, 2013

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Comments: The protection is fine.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Fat Stick (5.7)
By: Dana Bartlett When: Dec 29, 2012

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Comments: In Gran's 1964 guide he writes "this climb has a habit of ejecting 5.7 leaders."


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Proctor Silex (5.9+)
By: Dana Bartlett When: Nov 15, 2012

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Comments: I agree with David. Clean, steep, and some very engaging sections of climbing. The run-out section is close enough in difficulty to the difficulty of the crux that you should be a confident 5.9 leader before trying this.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Hi Coroner! (5.9)
By: Dana Bartlett When: Nov 8, 2012

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Comments: This is more difficult and considerably scarier if you decide the chimney on the third pitch is "off." That's how Todd climbed that section on the first ascent, but doing it that way seems pretty contrived.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Simple Ceilings (5.5)
By: Dana Bartlett When: Oct 25, 2012

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Comments: A neglected route that has some good climbing. A bit blocky and bushy at the start, but the face climbing above is quite nice.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : Mya to the East End : Rainy Daze (5.10c)
By: Dana Bartlett When: Oct 17, 2012

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Comments: A good addition to the crag, it climbs better than it looks and should clean up nicely.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Coronary (5.10 R)
By: Dana Bartlett When: Apr 24, 2012

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Comments: The protection is not all that bad.

I lead this on sight; the protection is all that bad. Protection comparable to Apoplexy? That's a joke.


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