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Member Since: Apr 23, 2012
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 14,205
Total Points: 9
Last Year: 2
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 29 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvments | Comments 9 | Posts 6 | Stars 2 | Ratings 12
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - East Face : Upper Broadway : Alcoa Presents (5.8)
By: Dan Mathews When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: While you can't clip the aluminum pin because the eye is into the crack, you can thread it with a thin dyneema sling. The next few moves are the crux for me and I actually find them more difficult than Triple S.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : The Groove (5.8 PG13)
By: Dan Mathews When: Dec 30, 2013

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Comments: I thought the first 2 moves were particularly more difficult than the rest of the climb and harder than 5.8. As an East Coast climber it reminded me of the first few moves of Conns East Direct at Seneca. The climb was rated 5.6... except for the first two 5.8 moves :)

Don't let them intimidate you. The rest of the climb is easier and a lot of fun.

This was the first move of my first climb at the Leap, and I was really surprised when I almost came off there.


Location: VA : Elizabeth Furnace : Talking Headwall : Continuance (5.7)
By: Dan Mathews When: Oct 26, 2012

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Comments: The first bolt is in a huge detached block. I wouldn't/didn't clip it. I used some tcu's below and above it.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Triple Direct (5.9 C1-)
By: Dan Mathews When: Oct 26, 2012

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Comments: For what it is worth, I think the aid is a little more committing than the nose. The second pitch above Mammoth is comparable in difficulty (but longer) than the pitch above Camp 5. The next pitch is as hard as any on the Nose, and the long C2 corner up to the Shield route is longer and slightly more difficult than any of the Nose aid. Still, it is all straight forward and didn't need anything more complicated than brass offsets and a few offset mastercams. (You'll want a hook for the hard s... more >>


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Triple S (5.8+)
By: Dan Mathews When: Oct 24, 2012

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Comments: Love this climb. Stemming and even some chimney moves for rests are the key. Solid protection is everywhere, so don't let it scare you off. Some thinly protected Seneca 5.7s are more intimidating than this. It doesn't get much better.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - East Face : Southeast Corner : Don't Think Twice (5.7+)
By: Dan Mathews When: Oct 24, 2012

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Comments: This is a fun face climb with lots of incut holds. The bolt spacing keeps your attention in places.

Definitely bring a #2 camalot (bomber placement) for protecting the last few moves before the belay. Otherwise you are probably 20' above a bolt when you pull the little roof/left facing corner, which seemed to be the hardest moves of the climb.

I didn't see any good options for supplementing the bolts, except for the camalot described above, so I didn't place any. Some of the bolts a... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Riding Hood Wall : Big Bad Wolf (5.9)
By: Dan Mathews When: May 4, 2012

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Comments: We did this early Sunday morning before it warmed up or anyone was there. It is a lot of fun and extremely well protected. The first pitch seemed easier than several of the .9's we did later in the day in the Black Corridor. We did 3 single rope (60m) raps and didn't have any issues with snags or breaking off holds.

I could do a climb like this over and over again. Thanks to whomever put it up!


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Sunset Slab (5.7)
By: Dan Mathews When: May 4, 2012

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Comments: Climbed it this past weekend and had the route to ourselves. It was a very enjoyable climb. Most of the climbing is considerably easier than 5.7, but an inexperienced climber shouldn't take it lightly. The protection can be quite sparse in spots (more like 30' between placements) although the climbing is probably 5.4 in those sections.

The biggest challenge I experienced was finding an adequate belay station. On the third pitch from the top I ran out of rope (60 m) and ended up downclimbi... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs
By: Dan Mathews When: May 4, 2012

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Comments: Descent description by Karl K is right on in terms of locations, and it was a huge help in locating/following the descent. Thanks Karl!

We didn't scramble everywhere he did so it took us about 1:20 from the top of Sunset Slab.

At one point about halfway down he describes traversing to a gully on skiers left to avoid a double rope rappel. It is a fairly exposed move to enter the gully, but it can be easily protected by placing a #2 camalot in a crack, attaching it to a cows tail/daisy... more >>


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Rappelling on accessory cordClimbing Gear DiscussionDan MathewsJan 12, 2014
re: Trad practice without trad climbing?Trad ClimbingDan MathewsJan 6, 2014
Lovers Leap in late October?Northern CaliforniaDan MathewsSep 26, 2013
re: Need climbing partner week of Aug.6Eastern and Southern StatesDan MathewsJul 31, 2013
re: Elbow Bursitis experienceInjuries and AccidentsDan MathewsJul 31, 2013
re: Layout can't read textiPhone & Android App FeedbackDan MathewsApr 23, 2012

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Triple Direct 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a C1-

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : El Capitan

Big Bad Wolf 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

NV : Red Rock : ... : Riding Hood Wall

Contributed Ratings

Name Established Rating Suggested Rating Location

Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face

Ne Plus Ultra

5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

VA : Elizabeth Furnace : Talking Headwall

Triple Direct

5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a C1-

5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a C2

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : El Capitan

Marshall's Madness

5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face

Big Bad Wolf

5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

NV : Red Rock : ... : Riding Hood Wall

Triple S

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face

West Pole

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face

Pleasant Overhangs

5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face

Don't Think Twice

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

WV : Seneca Rocks : ... : Southeast Corner

Bee Sting Corner

5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

WV : Seneca Rocks : ... : Southeast Corner

Ecstasy

5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

WV : Seneca Rocks : South End

Conn's West

5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face

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