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Location: VA : Elizabeth Furnace : Talking Headwall : Continuance (5.7)
By: Dan Mathews When: Oct 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first bolt is in a huge detached block. I wouldn't/didn't clip it. I used some tcu's below and above it.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Triple Direct (5.9 C1-)
By: Dan Mathews When: Oct 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: For what it is worth, I think the aid is a little more committing than the nose. The second pitch above Mammoth is comparable in difficulty (but longer) than the pitch above Camp 5. The next pitch is as hard as any on the Nose, and the long C2 corner up to the Shield route is longer and slightly more difficult than any of the Nose aid. Still, it is all straight forward and didn't need anything more complicated than brass offsets and a few offset mastercams. (You'll want a hook for the hard s... more >>
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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Triple S (5.8+)
By: Dan Mathews When: Oct 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Love this climb. Stemming and even some chimney moves for rests are the key. Solid protection is everywhere, so don't let it scare you off. Some thinly protected Seneca 5.7s are more intimidating than this. It doesn't get much better.
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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - East Face : Southeast Corner : Don't Think Twice (5.7+)
By: Dan Mathews When: Oct 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun face climb with lots of incut holds. The bolt spacing keeps your attention in places.
Definitely bring a #2 camalot (bomber placement) for protecting the last few moves before the belay. Otherwise you are probably 20' above a bolt when you pull the little roof/left facing corner, which seemed to be the hardest moves of the climb.
I didn't see any good options for supplementing the bolts, except for the camalot described above, so I didn't place any. Some of the bolts a... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Riding Hood Wall : Big Bad Wolf (5.9)
By: Dan Mathews When: May 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did this early Sunday morning before it warmed up or anyone was there. It is a lot of fun and extremely well protected. The first pitch seemed easier than several of the .9's we did later in the day in the Black Corridor. We did 3 single rope (60m) raps and didn't have any issues with snags or breaking off holds.
I could do a climb like this over and over again. Thanks to whomever put it up!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Sunset Slab (5.7)
By: Dan Mathews When: May 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed it this past weekend and had the route to ourselves. It was a very enjoyable climb. Most of the climbing is considerably easier than 5.7, but an inexperienced climber shouldn't take it lightly. The protection can be quite sparse in spots (more like 30' between placements) although the climbing is probably 5.4 in those sections.
The biggest challenge I experienced was finding an adequate belay station. On the third pitch from the top I ran out of rope (60 m) and ended up downclimbi... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs
By: Dan Mathews When: May 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Descent description by Karl K is right on in terms of locations, and it was a huge help in locating/following the descent. Thanks Karl!
We didn't scramble everywhere he did so it took us about 1:20 from the top of Sunset Slab.
At one point about halfway down he describes traversing to a gully on skiers left to avoid a double rope rappel. It is a fairly exposed move to enter the gully, but it can be easily protected by placing a #2 camalot in a crack, attaching it to a cows tail/daisy... more >>
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