Contributed Comments |
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Location: International : Europe : Switzerland : Weesen : Sektor Galerie : Photo By: Dan Flynn When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Probably Verschneidung 5c !
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Location: International : Europe : Switzerland : Sobrio : Photo By: Dan Flynn When: Feb 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually even sweeter than the picture shows, somehow..
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Location: International : Europe : Switzerland : Zervreilahorn : Braveheart (5.12a) By: Dan Flynn When: Nov 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I need to get back to Zervreilahorn -- this and Nanouk now both sound excellent. Nice write-up.
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Location: International : Europe : Switzerland : Furka Pass : Galengrat : Galengrat-verschneidung 5c (5.9) By: Dan Flynn When: Oct 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We started too far left, ended up doing a short but harder start pitch, then traversed right to the actual start. Look for the fixed rope! Descent now also possible from the E face. Keep going from the finish up to the summit ridge, and look for a large cairn with flags on it. Look back, and you should see "50 m -->" painted in red, pointing to the abseilpiste. 4x 50 or 3x 60 gets you down to a snow field, easy scramble and sliding down to the glacier. Also, from the Galengrat fin... more >>
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Disco Death March (5.10d) By: Dan Flynn When: Oct 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Get all your beta here..
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Kligfield's Follies (5.11d) : Photo By: Dan Flynn When: Sep 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rocking the swami belt.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ridicullissima (5.10c PG13) By: Dan Flynn When: Sep 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Direct start (5.8+ in grey dick) doesn't protect as well as doublissima start, but keeps the rope drag down. Also, in the route sorting this should be left (above) Directississima.
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Location: International : Asia : China : Beijing Area : Shi Du By: Dan Flynn When: Aug 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: From This page (redpoint) It looks like the location is here 115.6534, 39.6218 And directions as follows Public Bus:. 917 (To Shidu 十渡) get off at Sidu 四渡 Car: Take the Jingshi Expressway (Beijing-Shijiazhuang expressway), exit right at Liulihe 琉... more >>
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Location: International : Europe : Switzerland : Dent de Jaman : Ace of Spades 5b (5.8 A0) : Photo By: Dan Flynn When: Aug 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: nice topo!
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Location: OR : Beacon Rock : Young Warriors (5.9) By: Dan Flynn When: Aug 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't have the book -- please add in the comments any other relevant info (FA, pitch descriptions) and I'll update the route description.
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Location: OR : Beacon Rock : Free for Some (5.11a PG13) By: Dan Flynn When: Aug 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fingertips only for me... super aesthetic line, have to come back for the send!
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Location: International : Europe : Switzerland : Arcegno : Galileo 6b+ (5.10c/d) : Photo By: Dan Flynn When: Jul 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can't believe that's only 6b+!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Suppers Ready (5.12a) By: Dan Flynn When: Apr 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Possible to TR after leading up to the ledge (e.g. by Feast of Fools) with a 70m rope. Take some webbing for a long anchor off of the big tree. Bonus: massive airtime on each miss... Also no reason not to go for the lead, with fixed gear in place at (for me) both crux moves.
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Location: International : Europe : France : Vallee Blanche (White Valle... : Aiguille du Midi : Rebuffat (Southeast Face) (5.10a) By: Dan Flynn When: Apr 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Also see Snow, Ice, and Mixed.
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Location: International : Europe : France : Chamonix Valley & Aiguilles... : Les Gaillands By: Dan Flynn When: Mar 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun cragging in town. However, in February we were chased away by the gendamerie because of avalanche danger! Apparently the cliff is in a prime spot to get dumped on, when the conditions are right.
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Location: International : Europe : Switzerland : Ponte Brolla : Settore Est : Occidente 7a+ (5.12a) By: Dan Flynn When: Dec 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Christoph Moser on Occidente www.chmoser.ch/trips/movies/files/occidente.mov
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Location: International : Europe : Switzerland : Melchtal : Cheselenflue : Blauer Käfer (5.10b) By: Dan Flynn When: Oct 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can link P5 + 6 for a longer, funner finish. Definitely have some rope drag, but the 10m extra are quite different character and I think really worth it. 50m ropes ok.
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Location: VT : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : Tea in the Sahara (5.10b) By: Dan Flynn When: Aug 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey all -- Sorry about the confusion. I've fixed the name and route location. I only climbed at Bolton once, and was writing the description just from memory. If I'm describing the wrong route, please let me know! I'm happy to let someone else add more details here as well.
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Location: International : Europe : Switzerland : Melchtal : Bonistock / Melchsee-Frutt By: Dan Flynn When: Jul 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Toll is 7 chf to drive up and park at Melchsee-Frutt, but we couldn't find out how to pay it... camping is possible at several sites on the drive up. Sure, don't come to Switzerland for the single-pitch climbing, but it sure is fun if you're already here! Note the grades on the route name placards are UIAA/German, which takes some mental gymnastics...
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Men At Arms (5.10a PG13) By: Dan Flynn When: Jul 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got to the stance at the end of P1 (according to Grey Dick), and like lucander decided there was no way to build a solid belay there. Went up right around short corner, then back left towards blunt arete. Lots of possible paths on the face, just keep moving up to the top.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : The Spring (P1) (5.9) By: Dan Flynn When: Oct 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do p2 -- following Grey Dick, it crosses left, over p1 of the winter. Use the second fixed gear anchor above p1 of the winter (not the one normally used for tr'ing the winter). A wicked fun roof problem awaits at the top, 10b and more like pg-13. Save a .5 C4 for the crux.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Bonsai : War and Peace (5.9+) By: Dan Flynn When: Jun 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found it to be wetter and sketchier, and not necessarily easier, than Masterpiece.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : ... : Photo By: Dan Flynn When: Apr 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best butt shots out there
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