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Location: NH : Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Glory Jean's (5.6)
By: Dan Felix When: Nov 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed it yesterday, the last bolt before the anchors is a spinner. I didn't have my nut tool with me while I was up there to try to tighten it... Considering the angle the rope has to take between the last bolt and the anchor it might be better for that bolt to be a glue-in.
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Location: NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : Devil's Den
By: Dan Felix When: Sep 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just a heads-up- sometime between 9/8/12 and today (9/16/12), the gate to the main access road off of Hayes Road has been closed and locked. There are other ways into the area, but it would be best if a local helped. And chances are good that a normal car will not make it through any alternate entry route without damage!
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Location: NH : Square Ledge (Pinkham Notch... : Unknown (Left of Practice S... (5.7)
By: Dan Felix When: Sep 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Currently listed as a 5.7, my limited experience (so take this for what it's worth) tells me it's harder than that- at least a 5.8, more likely a 5.9. Granted I don't have a lot of crack experience, but the holds don't amount to much- especially at the beginning. About 10' off the ground it gets better, and towards the top it does get dirty.
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Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Lost Ledge
By: Dan Felix When: Aug 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do NOT follow the approach directions in the Handren book!! Handren details staying on the left side of the stream (river right) but also mentions following the yellow blazes. If you follow his directions, there will be no blazes and you will have a heck of a bushwack to get to the base of the ledge, but you can find it... For less frustration, follow the directions listed here- the stream crossing is shortly after the trail breaks through the short hemlock undergrowth. There is an old fire ... more >>
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Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Lost Ledge : Gawking At the Broad Squad (5.5)
By: Dan Felix When: Aug 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the first pitch today with my kids. Definitely a dirty route- lichen covered and I doubt that will change any time soon without more traffic. There was a rope and rings on the anchor bolts, but unknown age. I left 3/8" screw links on the anchors, with the links the anchors are now at the same approximate elevation and should be easy to clip with draws. An FYI- it was sunny today, and the 3rd bolt was extremely difficult to see from below due to the sun and where it is placed! My 60 meter... more >>
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Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Lost Ledge : Carpet Slabber (5.3)
By: Dan Felix When: Aug 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed/scrambled this route today with my kids. I left a 3/8" screw link on each anchor at the top. Figured the screw links would last longer than webbing...
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