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Crack Climbing! 'Conception' Day Canyon, Moab, UT


Member Since: Jun 28, 2009
Last Visit: Feb 19, 2015
Contact Zach Alberts


Point Rank: # 365
Total Points: 1,636
Last Year: 249
Last 30 Days: 3
3 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Zach Alberts been climbing?










Contributions


All 309 | Routes 99 | Areas 26 | Photos 48 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 13 | Posts 14 | Stars 108 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : Europe : France : Ceuse
By: Zach Alberts When: Jan 12, 2015

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Comments: The new guidebook which came out last year only mentions if the routes are longer than 40m, i guess they expect everyone to have an 80m rope. Probably 90% of the routes can be done with a single 70m...but with that said, several routes (especially the new ones on the grande face) in the new guide are between 35m and 40m high and not noted in the text. So be careful, even if you have a 70m rope.


Location: International : Europe : Turkey : Antalya Geyikbayiri : Sarkit : Saxafon (5.11a/b)
By: Zach Alberts When: Mar 30, 2013

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Comments: Super popular warm-up or project up steep, large tufas. Really fun and really polished. There is a cruxy move at the anchor for sure.


Location: International : Europe : Turkey : Antalya Geyikbayiri : Sarkit : Caf Caf (5.11b)
By: Zach Alberts When: Mar 30, 2013

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Comments: This was one of my least favorite climbs at the sector. Slippery, polished and insecure for the entire climb. ugh.


Location: CO : Crested Butte : Skyland Boulders
By: Zach Alberts When: Jan 6, 2013

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Comments: I made a topo for Skyland a few years ago while I was still living in Crested Butte. I had totally forgotton about it until I randomly happened upon it while going through some old things recently. I think I made it mostly for myself, to remember all the great boulder problems as well as the years of my life spent wandering around in the aspens looking for new problems and trying to repeat old ones. Anyways, I figured that I might as well share it with other climbers who want to experience al... more >>


Location: International : Europe : France : Ceuse : Photo
By: Zach Alberts When: Jan 6, 2013

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Comments: yeah, it's a pretty long slog to the base...a good warm-up though!


Location: International : Europe : France : Ailefroide
By: Zach Alberts When: Nov 30, 2012

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Comments: a great place to get your granite fix. Good bouldering as well as tons of bolted multi-pitch lines on granite. A beautiful valley with something for everyone. Can be crowded in the high season.


Location: International : Europe : France : Ceuse : Secture Berlin : San John's Pecos (5.12+)
By: Zach Alberts When: Nov 20, 2012

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Comments: Great climbing! Probably 12a climbing until the crux. A little bit polished and slopey, with a powerful crux at the top, but no stopper moves.


Location: International : Europe : France
By: Zach Alberts When: Oct 6, 2012

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Comments: If you're not planning on visiting Paris or bouldering in Font, there are closer and probably cheaper places to fly into than Paris. Look into Marsielle, Lyon or Geneva. Otherwise your looking at another 6+hrs of travel on the train or by car to get to the bulk of the climbing...train tickets can be expensive and by car you'd be traveling on toll roads, not to mention paying a hefty $8 a gallon for gas.


Location: International : Europe : France : Ceuse : Secture Biograpie : Realization (5.15a)
By: Zach Alberts When: Aug 1, 2012

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Comments: This route was equipped by the late Jean-Christophe Lafaille.


Location: International : Europe : France : Ceuse : Secture Demi Lune : La Javanaise (5.11d)
By: Zach Alberts When: Feb 26, 2012

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Comments: Well spaced bolts with thin moves. A Ceuse classic!


Location: International : Europe : France : Ceuse
By: Zach Alberts When: Feb 21, 2012

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Comments: The Gite is called 'la grange aux loupes' (lagrangeauxloups.net ) The camping is called 'camping les guerins' (campinglesguerins.com/)
There are two parking possibilities to approach the cliff. The first is a small, newly paved parking lot just across from the gite. This accesses the less steep, but a little bit longer approach trail. The other is just a little higher the bigger parking at the 'col des guérins'. This accesses the steeper, more technical, shorter approach.... more >>


Location: International : Europe : France : Ceuse : Secture Biograpie : Les Colonnettes (5.13)
By: Zach Alberts When: Feb 19, 2012

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Comments: I believe the boulder problem at the start is chipped. The tufa climbing after the boulder problem is totally worth doing. Awesome route.


Location: International : Europe : France : Ceuse : Secture Berlin : La Petite Illusion (5.12a)
By: Zach Alberts When: Feb 19, 2012

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Comments: There is now an extension of this route which adds a half star in my book. Continue past the first set of anchors past 4 or 5 more bolts of 11b or 11c face climbing to a fixed anchor. YOU NEED an 80m rope to reach the ground from the second set of anchors. I'd bring about 16 quickdraws.