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Member Since: Mar 29, 2002
Last Visit: Aug 30, 2005
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Point Rank: # 6,053
Total Points: 57
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 41 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 32 | Posts | Stars 5 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Cottontail Crack

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (1)

Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

CO : Estes Park Valley : Cottontail Crag

Aug 1, 2002

Sun King

5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a (4)

Trad, 2 pitches

CO : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend

May 5, 2002

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Casual on the crux.

Casual on the crux.

CO : Lumpy Ridge : ... : Stretch Marks (5.11a)

Mar 6, 2003

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Blood Feud (5.12d)
By: Crusty When: Aug 30, 2005

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Comments: I'll chime in since I was present for the FA. It looks to me like the free version (photo below) is traversing in above the thin nailing crux of Wide Gauge. As I recall, stubby Lost Arrows and Knifeblades were used on the aid ascent. I believe Bernard pendi'ed in to the bottom of the seam. Perhaps he could confirm this as he led the pitch and I don't think he would mistake A1 for A3. I certainly might make that mistake but not him. Anyway kudos on the free ascent, looks plenty zesty and st... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge
By: Crusty When: May 5, 2004

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Comments: Beer and margaritas next Tuesday boys. Please be civil.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Life After James (5.11b)
By: Crusty When: May 5, 2004

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Comments: You be the judge as to wether or not I'm a jerk: I'm a 5.9 climber (5.10 if the route plays to my strengths and the planets are lined up right). Love the route, the bolt placements are good and a couple are challenging. Sometimes you actually have to try hard to hang on and clip. I don't believe this means they were poorly chosen. I like the way this was bolted, it does climb kind of like a trad route. I used some nuts and cams to mitigate injury and fear. I don't think it's unreasonable ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: Crusty When: Mar 20, 2004

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Comments: A few years ago I climbed this route with a bevy of aging hardmen (guys up to 62, at 34 I was the youngest by 11 years). By registering the day before we were given the combination for the loop road gate to start early. We started hiking by about 6:00am and 7 of us were on top at 1:00pm. The descent for all 7 of us took about 2 hours. No stuck ropes and two parties came up behind us with no problems. Several of these guys had backgrounds in guiding, rescue and rigging. This was one of the ... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Life After James (5.11b)
By: Crusty When: Dec 21, 2003

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Comments: This really is one of the gems of the Saint Vrain. Many people will be comfortable with only the bolts on this climb but here's the other gear I used to prevent tears. A medium wired nut on the left protects getting to the first bolt. A #7 rock can be placed after bolt #5 on pitch one. A #5 rock can be placed after bolt #6 on pitch two. I know it sounds crazy, but I didn't use any Aliens on this climb.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Slab : Git 'em Up Scout (5.9)
By: Crusty When: Aug 4, 2003

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Comments: I belayed one of Gillett's attempts on this route and I must say it is absolutely sick that he was able to rope solo this thing. I guess that's why we call him the Honemaster General. Kudos. It's A0 for me.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull
By: Crusty When: Jun 18, 2003

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Comments: Leo, see discussion from 5/21/03 under area South Saint Vrain Canyon.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Palisade Mountain : Nancy's Rock
By: Crusty When: Jun 2, 2003

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Comments: Allen, I've always wondered where Spinal Tap is. Do you know where it is? Just curious, not that I'd actually climb it. Thanks. -C


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Osiris (5.7)
By: Crusty When: May 29, 2003

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Comments: Clean chimney, quality thrutching, finger cracks, hand cracks, stepping off the fang, a bigger 5.7 than the left book routes, it deserves at least two stars. Great intro to the steeper Lumpy routes. Left Book is quality, too, though. Stephan, I think you are afraid to stick your body parts into those cracks. There's only the occasional rabid critter in there, you'll be fine, just go! xoxoxo -c


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Lower Infirmary Slabs : Look Ma No Hands
By: Crusty When: Mar 4, 2003

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Comments: This changes everything!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : The Great Dihedral (5.7)
By: Crusty When: Feb 25, 2003

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Comments: This excellent fissure drains several aspects of The Bookend. If it looks like rain you might want to include a kayak on the rack.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Stretch Marks (5.11a)
By: Crusty When: Feb 14, 2003

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Comments: Nate, I'm unwilling to go along with your downgrade of Stretch Marks to 5.10a. It feels harder to me than Thindependance right next door at 5.10c. I am willing to upgrade your climbing ability however. Your email moniker is 'climbhardV10.' If your climbing v10 I'll bet Stretch Marks feels like 5.9. I'm climbing v3 and it feels like 5.11a. Keep crankin'!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Prospect Mountain : The Thumb : North Overhangs (5.9-)
By: Crusty When: Feb 10, 2003

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Comments: From a rope solo ascent 9/2002, I had rope to spare after climbing this in one pitch with a 60m. After rapping from the top left as described above, you have a top rope access to Ziggarete (5.10c) or Confines of Power (5.11d). The bird doodoo seems to vary seasonally. The belay under the roof is a cool perch for people as well as pigeons and should be enjoyed if the poo isn't too bad. The poo on pitch two is fairly easy to avoid by stemming left. Nice, quick after work climb.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Primeval (5.13+)
By: Crusty When: Feb 5, 2003

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Comments: CU Climbing Team, please remove your 100ft. high logo from the Third Flatiron and any epoxy you may have scattered around. You guys are like summer vacation............no class.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Cottontail Crag : Pay at the Pump (5.11b)
By: Crusty When: Feb 4, 2003

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Comments: You may be right about the bolt count, Bernard; I think I forgot one after bolt three. As for the second bolt, I placed it in '93 as per our conversation back then. Sorry, if that wasn't cool. Also, I posted this route under the name Christian Hill 'cause that's my name, but someone else is using that name on this site, so I'll go back to my alter-ego now. Geez, I suck at posting.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Vestibule : Stolen Land (5.11c)
By: Crusty When: Feb 3, 2003

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Comments: I think this is the RIGHT hand route on the Altar; just right of Tabula Rasa.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Wild Basin : Hidden Falls : Hidden Falls (main) (WI4)
By: Crusty When: Jan 30, 2003

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Comments: Well said, Phil.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin : Edge of Time (5.9)
By: Crusty When: Sep 12, 2002

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Comments: Josh, I share your regret that I've contributed to this rant festival. I think sometimes our comments don't read the way we think they do. Rock-on on hard-rock!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Skunk Crack (5.9+)
By: Crusty When: Sep 12, 2002

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Comments: Scott, I think you should try yoga. It makes it easier to extract your shoulder from your wider midsection. Be careful out there!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : Isis Buttress : Living Dead (5.11b)
By: Crusty When: Aug 30, 2002

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Comments: The second pitch is good especially after you get going. It's a lot like the first pitch but easier. Follow the left leaning finger crack from the pins on top of pitch one. Off the belay it's a little committing .9ish climbing off a good nut. The 10a is delivered near the top of the pitch. This pitch would get better with more traffic, it's got a couple vegetables and crispies down low. It might be a good idea to bring some fresh webbing for the top anchor.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin : Edge of Time (5.9)
By: Crusty When: Aug 16, 2002

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Comments: I was suggesting that the two pins on this route should be replaced with a bolt to produce a safer experience much in the same way a 3/8 bolt improves on a 1/4 bolt. My personal belief is that fixed hardware should be good. Although I still feel that way after reading these responses I probably wouldn't do this because it would anger some people. As for top roping it, I think I won't do that because I enjoy leading it like these other posters. My concern is for aspiring 5.9 leaders. The pro... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin : Edge of Time (5.9)
By: Crusty When: Aug 14, 2002

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Comments: Reading back over these comments I see that "sacks" and "stones" are required to lead this. Come on guys, this is not the area test piece you think it is. It's 5.9 with positive edges. I gotta go with Ray on this one. The aesthetic line, moderate grade, and guide book cover shot are going to continue to attract beginners to this climb surounded by moderates with lots of bolts. Bernard, can you help us out with a little history? Was this a tr before it was led? Is this rock in RMNP? It se... more >>


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