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Member Since: Sep 5, 2012
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 456
Total Points: 1,380
Last Year: 761
Last 30 Days: 472
29 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 313 | Routes 40 | Areas 17 | Photos 147 | Page Improvements | Comments 35 | Posts 12 | Stars 62 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : Pancake tuesday (5.12a)
By: CrimperE6 When: 6 days ago

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Comments: might be 7b, i cant tell


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Opposite Main Wall : Chastity Belt (5.10a R)
By: CrimperE6 When: 6 days ago

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Comments: bring a spanner for the 1st bolt, its loose


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Right ... : ... : Photo
By: CrimperE6 When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: not a 1st ascent then :)


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : The Lost Sierra : bald rock dome : the groove (5.9)
By: CrimperE6 When: Apr 12, 2015

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Comments: would be 3stars if it had decent bolted anchors. The original route has small pitches, ending in non logical belays. (it would be way better to end for example on the obvious ledge.) So we ended up running pitches together, basically stopping at about 60m out, then setting up an anchor on whatever.

1st pitch is by far the hardest technical climbing, with a couple of smearing moves on superb granite straight from Tuolumne meadows..


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : The Lost Sierra : bald rock dome : the groove (5.9) : Photo
By: CrimperE6 When: Apr 12, 2015

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Comments: i have climbed off route here. Groove is shown on the L


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Cantara Loop
By: CrimperE6 When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: best routes are limited to the RHS. Rest are chossy trad routes. Really nice place to be by the river though..


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, West Face : Fat Merchant Crack (5.10b X)
By: CrimperE6 When: Apr 5, 2015

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Comments: couldnt find the peg.. Also its death without 12" pro. My camalot 6 was useless


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Opposite Main Wall : "Project" Right Arete (5.12+)
By: CrimperE6 When: Mar 16, 2015

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Comments: meh.... a couple of hard moves then easy. bloc 7a+


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Back Walls : Swallow Hole (5.10b)
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 18, 2014

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Comments: good route, lower pockets are muddy. French 6a+


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : No Quarter (5.12c PG13)
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 16, 2014

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Comments: amazing route, better than it looked from the ground. Last 1/2 is non stop pump with the crux where it should be, at the top. solid 7b+!

march 2015 - independant start added 1m L of crank whore starting up a crack, with new 12mm fixe glueins (red A7). This should reduce rope drag. I will take the rest of the old ones out in due course


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Pachyderm Wall AKA Sunshine... : Sunshine Face Bolt Ladder ... (C1)
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: my 70m doubled, reached the bottom of the route in one go.
Follows the obvious crack on RHS of wall.
There is a random lower off 5m off the ground..
22 bolts for some reason, although we only used 12 quickdraws and did it in one 35m pitch. dirty and somewhat loose in places. One obvious hard bit and rest is ok. Felt like E25c. Seems like they tried too hard to force the action on the top wall, trending R for a few moves, but this is easy and more fun (and runout) to bypass by just continuing u... more >>


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Trinity ArÍtes
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 9, 2014

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Comments: north facing and probably not the best place to be in winter, especially the tendency for local fog and some seepage. Crag bottom is a steep loose (muddy) slope, bring a rope bag. Small area really, vertical crimping wall is ok but the 45degree wall is world class for the >7c climber, and without the polish!


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Marble Caves
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 9, 2014

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Comments: Marble Caves : good luck finding the trail, no-ones been here for 10yrs probably, really overgrown, bring a saw.. Awesome climbing in the 7a-7b range.

The bowling ball was easier to find.(although the 10mile post has been knocked over and was in a bush)

Just follow the gully down and then to the R to reach the base of the cliff, no disernable path and poison ivy.

Bowling ball routes are meh, dusty and not really worth it to be honest, plus randomly needing gear for routes, slightly annoying... more >>


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Moonstone Beach : Karen Rock
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 9, 2014

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Comments: pretty average climbing, guidebooks make out there is way more lines, but only really 4 or so, rest are eliminate. Karen crack a fun lead. Can be foggy oh and watch for dog shit...


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : Spread Eagle (5.12c)
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: Euro gold ,7b+ ?
Easy to pre-place last 3 draws from the 5,10 on the opposite wall!


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Outer Wall : Another Vertical Nightmare (5.12)
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: Bit too sharp to be fun, French 7a ish. Hard for 1 move.


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Outer Wall : Finger Flake (5.11b PG13)
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: feels a bit like climbing in the Verdon!


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : Love Muffin (5.12a)
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: Bloc 7B, easier to grab the chains!


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : Fashion Victim (5.11a/b)
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: French 6c+, high 1st clip. more intermediates than crank whore


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : Crank Whore (5.11a)
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: French 6c+, reachy.
For an easier version, start up this and finish up fashion victim, voila! missing out both cruxs and no reachy moves, but still getting pumped at F6c ish.

(Fashion to Crank is fun too)

March 2015 - still 6c+ since hold broke. so many chains now!


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : Space Sluts (5.12a)
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: good 7a/+


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Pachyderm Wall AKA Sunshine... : Hole in the Wall (5.11a)
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: awesome route. I was back in the verdon for a minute! Must do for a local..F6B/+


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : Farley (5.9)
By: CrimperE6 When: Oct 21, 2014

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Comments: watch the rope drag on the last pitch - E25a for the Brits (ie feels scary!)
bring 2 x70s and abseil off the chains 20m to the left at the top break. Half way point being a hanging thread on the arete.


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Castle Crags : Castle Dome : The Dike Route (aka East Fa... (5.10d)
By: CrimperE6 When: Oct 16, 2014

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Comments: how hard is it to mark a trail to the crag? - wasted 1hr getting lost.. Dont follow the cairned trail round to the right of the face, we eventually followed the dry river bed direct to hit the crag at the LHS

E3/4 6a for the UK crew. The guide mentioning funky gear placements just means know how to use wires
5th pitch has no bolted anchor, so i went to 65m out and after a loose block, created a trad belay. Another 65m took me to the top

Be careful on the descent, really dangerous, esp if dark... more >>


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Lassen National Park
By: CrimperE6 When: Oct 16, 2014

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Comments: belly button - rock has poor patina on LHS crag, especially on lower cliff band. Lots of loose rock on the upper sections - wear helmet. some difficult gear placements and spacey bolts, probably not for beginners..
main belly button area has really unstable scree base. The rock has awesome patina, bolts are a bit spacey like Ceuse, pumpy enduro with hard to find holds and a bit greasy, routes around 6c-7a+. My favorite area around Redding. (castle crags just too big a walk in!)


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