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Member Since: Sep 5, 2012
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact CrimperE6


Point Rank: # 951
Total Points: 663
Last Year: 44
Last 30 Days: 44
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has CrimperE6 been climbing?










Contributions


All 126 | Routes 15 | Areas 11 | Photos 67 | Page Improvements | Comments 13 | Posts 6 | Stars 14 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : Farley (5.9)
By: CrimperE6 When: 4 days ago

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Comments: watch the rope drag on the last pitch - E25a for the Brits (ie feels scary!)
bring 2 x70s and abseil off the chains 20m to the left at the top break. Half way point being a hanging thread on the arete.


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Castle Crags : Castle Dome : the Dike Route (5.10d)
By: CrimperE6 When: Oct 16, 2014

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Comments: how hard is it to mark a trail to the crag? - wasted 1hr getting lost.. Dont follow the cairned trail round to the right of the face, we eventually followed the dry river bed direct to hit the crag at the LHS

E3/4 6a for the UK crew. The guide mentioning funky gear placements just means know how to use wires
5th pitch has no bolted anchor, so i went to 65m out and after a loose block, created a trad belay. Another 65m took me to the top

Be careful on the descent, really dangerous, esp if dark... more >>


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Lassen National Park
By: CrimperE6 When: Oct 16, 2014

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Comments: belly button - rock has poor patina on LHS crag, especially on lower cliff band. Lots of loose rock on the upper sections - wear helmet. some difficult gear placements and spacey bolts, probably not for beginners..
main belly button area has really unstable scree base. The rock has awesome patina, bolts are a bit spacey like Ceuse, pumpy enduro with hard to find holds and a bit greasy, routes around 6c-7a+. My favorite area around Redding. (castle crags just too big a walk in!)


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S...
By: CrimperE6 When: Oct 16, 2014

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Comments: bring a stick clip for annoying high first bolts


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : South West : ... : Photo
By: CrimperE6 When: Oct 31, 2012

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Comments: you can go high here or slightly easier to stay low on the traverse.

The ledge from which one starts pitch one is clearly visible in the lower left portion of the photo.

Moonraker keeps following the crack up and leftwards, whereas dreadnaught breaks off right to the traverse that Tom is seen on here in the photo


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : South West : ... : Cithaeron (5.11)
By: CrimperE6 When: Oct 31, 2012

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Comments: this is one amazing route. Pity its a Gary Gibson route...


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : South West : ... : Quatermass (5.10)
By: CrimperE6 When: Oct 30, 2012

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Comments: 3rd pitch seems a bit pointless (if doing the 5c version).
We did the last 2 pitches in one go


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : South West : ... : The Cullinan (5.11)
By: CrimperE6 When: Oct 30, 2012

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Comments: not scary really, as made out in the book. plenty of gear is available! really steady climbing with lots of rest ful postions to place the gear. V soft for E5


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : South West : ... : Supercharged (5.11)
By: CrimperE6 When: Oct 30, 2012

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Comments: bit easy to reach the left arete and cheat!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Upper Spire : Steppin' Stone (5.11a) : Photo
By: CrimperE6 When: Oct 25, 2012

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Comments: watch out for this tricky bit, to go right or straight up?


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Wild Turkey (5.8 R)
By: CrimperE6 When: Oct 25, 2012

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Comments: amazing route, E55c/6a for the UK conversion onsight, 5.8 my arse.
the first bit to the sling is unprotected E35b ish. The crux move around the overhang 6a.

The top is a moss covered death runout adventure on a poor old bolt. You can jump into the tree i was told by a local mentalist! Probably best to rap and clean the top section.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lembert Dome : Northwest Face : Crying Time Again (5.9+)
By: CrimperE6 When: Oct 19, 2012

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Comments: pointless wandering line! and badly bolted.. probably the hype didnt help


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Drug Dome : Gram (5.10d)
By: CrimperE6 When: Oct 18, 2012

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Comments: hideous rope drag to continue to the top. This route really needs a rap station at the end of the traverse on the ledges out right. To belay off the knobs is just bullshit as they are tiny. Then could rap in 2 pitches to the floor and not have to do the shitty 20min walk off.

The second pitch on oz, second bolt is stupidly high. I think a block has fallen off, nails to make the clip