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Member Since: Sep 5, 2012
Last Visit: 5 days ago
Contact CrimperE6


Point Rank: # 834
Total Points: 782
Last Year: 163
Last 30 Days: 119
26 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has CrimperE6 been climbing?










Contributions


All 185 | Routes 16 | Areas 11 | Photos 86 | Page Improvements | Comments 27 | Posts 7 | Stars 38 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Back Walls : Swallow Hole (5.10b)
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 18, 2014

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Comments: good route, lower pockets are muddy. French 6a+


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : No Quarter (5.12b PG13)
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 16, 2014

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Comments: amazing route, better than it looked from the ground. Last 1/2 is non stop pump with the crux where it should be, at the top. solid 7b+!


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Sunshine Wall : Sunshine Face (5.11+)
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: my 70m doubled, reached the bottom of the route in one go.
Follows the obvious crack on RHS of wall.
There is a random lower off 5m off the ground..
22 bolts for some reason, although we only used 12 quickdraws and did it in one 35m pitch. dirty and somewhat loose in places. One obvious hard bit and rest is ok. Felt like E25c. Seems like they tried too hard to force the action on the top wall, trending R for a few moves, but this is easy and more fun (and runout) to bypass by just continuing u... more >>


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Trinity ArÍtes
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 9, 2014

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Comments: north facing and probably not the best place to be in winter, especially the tendency for local fog and some seepage. Crag bottom is a steep loose (muddy) slope, bring a rope bag. Small area really, vertical crimping wall is ok but the 45degree wall is world class for the >7c climber, and without the polish!


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Marble Caves
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 9, 2014

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Comments: Marble Caves : good luck finding the trail, no-ones been here for 10yrs probably, really overgrown, bring a saw.. Awesome climbing in the 7a-7b range.

The bowling ball was easier to find.(although the 10mile post has been knocked over and was in a bush)

Just follow the gully down and then to the R to reach the base of the cliff, no disernable path and poison ivy.

Bowling ball routes are meh, dusty and not really worth it to be honest, plus randomly needing gear for routes, slightly annoying... more >>


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Moonstone Beach : Karen Rock
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 9, 2014

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Comments: pretty average climbing, guidebooks make out there is way more lines, but only really 4 or so, rest are eliminate. Karen crack a fun lead. Can be foggy oh and watch for dog shit...


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : Spread Eagle (5.12b)
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: Euro gold , solid 7b+
Easy to pre-place last 3 draws from the 5,10 on the opposite wall!


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Outer Wall : Another Vertical Nightmare (5.12)
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: Bit too sharp to be fun, French 7a ish. Hard for 1 move.


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Outer Wall : Finger Flake (5.11b PG13)
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: feels a bit like climbing in the Verdon!


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : Love Muffin (5.12a)
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: Bloc 7B, easier to grab the chains!


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : Fashion Victim (5.11a/b)
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: French 6c+, high 1st clip. more intermediates than crank whore


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : Crank Whore (5.11a)
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: French 6c+, reachy.
For an easier version, start up this and finish up fashion victim, voila! missing out both cruxs and no reachy moves, but still getting pumped at F6c ish.

(Fashion to Crank is fun too)


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : Space Sluts (5.12a)
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: good 7a/+


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Sunshine Wall : Hole in the Wall (5.10b)
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: awesome route. I was back in the verdon for a minute! Must do for a local..F6B/+


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : Farley (5.9)
By: CrimperE6 When: Oct 21, 2014

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Comments: watch the rope drag on the last pitch - E25a for the Brits (ie feels scary!)
bring 2 x70s and abseil off the chains 20m to the left at the top break. Half way point being a hanging thread on the arete.


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Castle Crags : Castle Dome : The Dike Route (5.10d)
By: CrimperE6 When: Oct 16, 2014

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Comments: how hard is it to mark a trail to the crag? - wasted 1hr getting lost.. Dont follow the cairned trail round to the right of the face, we eventually followed the dry river bed direct to hit the crag at the LHS

E3/4 6a for the UK crew. The guide mentioning funky gear placements just means know how to use wires
5th pitch has no bolted anchor, so i went to 65m out and after a loose block, created a trad belay. Another 65m took me to the top

Be careful on the descent, really dangerous, esp if dark... more >>


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Lassen National Park
By: CrimperE6 When: Oct 16, 2014

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Comments: belly button - rock has poor patina on LHS crag, especially on lower cliff band. Lots of loose rock on the upper sections - wear helmet. some difficult gear placements and spacey bolts, probably not for beginners..
main belly button area has really unstable scree base. The rock has awesome patina, bolts are a bit spacey like Ceuse, pumpy enduro with hard to find holds and a bit greasy, routes around 6c-7a+. My favorite area around Redding. (castle crags just too big a walk in!)


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S...
By: CrimperE6 When: Oct 16, 2014

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Comments: bring a stick clip for high first bolts. Can be loose on the lesser climbed areas


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : South West : ... : Photo
By: CrimperE6 When: Oct 31, 2012

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Comments: you can go high here or slightly easier to stay low on the traverse.

The ledge from which one starts pitch one is clearly visible in the lower left portion of the photo.

Moonraker keeps following the crack up and leftwards, whereas dreadnaught breaks off right to the traverse that Tom is seen on here in the photo


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : South West : ... : Cithaeron (5.11)
By: CrimperE6 When: Oct 31, 2012

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Comments: this is one amazing route. Pity its a Gary Gibson route...


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : South West : ... : Quatermass (5.10)
By: CrimperE6 When: Oct 30, 2012

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Comments: 3rd pitch seems a bit pointless (if doing the 5c version).
We did the last 2 pitches in one go


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : South West : ... : The Cullinan (5.11)
By: CrimperE6 When: Oct 30, 2012

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Comments: not scary really, as made out in the book. plenty of gear is available! really steady climbing with lots of rest ful postions to place the gear. V soft for E5


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : South West : ... : Supercharged (5.11)
By: CrimperE6 When: Oct 30, 2012

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Comments: bit easy to reach the left arete and cheat!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Upper Spire : Steppin' Stone (5.11a) : Photo
By: CrimperE6 When: Oct 25, 2012

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Comments: watch out for this tricky bit, to go right or straight up?


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Wild Turkey (5.8 R)
By: CrimperE6 When: Oct 25, 2012

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Comments: amazing route, E55c/6a for the UK conversion onsight, 5.8 my arse.
the first bit to the sling is unprotected E35b ish. The crux move around the overhang 6a.

The top is a moss covered death runout adventure on a poor old bolt. You can jump into the tree i was told by a local mentalist! Probably best to rap and clean the top section.


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