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Member Since: Sep 5, 2012
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
Contact CrimperE6

Point Rank: # 286
Total Points: 2,054
Last Year: 1,435
Last 30 Days: 406
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has CrimperE6 been climbing?










Contributions


All 482 | Routes 64 | Areas 21 | Photos 207 | Page Improvements | Comments 64 | Posts 21 | Stars 105 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Castle Crags : Six Toe Rock
By: CrimperE6 When: 1 day ago

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Comments: I have backed up the first 2 abseils with an extra bolt.

(The top pitch slings now have a new 5 piece (PS)powers bolt and fixe hanger(PS). and the 1st pitch chain now has a recycled stainless metolius hanger and mallion with new fixe 12mm x70mm triplex bolt)

I never topped out , but i read there are 2 bolts on top to rap from.


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Lover's Leap : Plasma Wall
By: CrimperE6 When: 2 days ago

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Comments: not very well bolted (for an onsight)


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Lover's Leap : Trainwreck Wall : Jug Lord (5.11a)
By: CrimperE6 When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: better than it looks. A bit of crumble then the Top wall is mega


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Lover's Leap : 45 Wall : 45 (5.10a)
By: CrimperE6 When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: if under 5.8" the first move will be heinous, rest of route is nice thou


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Lover's Leap : 45 Wall : Gun Show (5.10c)
By: CrimperE6 When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: good route


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Natural Bridge / High Rock
By: CrimperE6 When: Jun 14, 2015

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Comments: Cheers for that Aaron, much appreciated. This place is awesome! Thanks for all the hard work.


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Natural Bridge / High Rock : Gray Wall : Massacre (5.12-)
By: CrimperE6 When: Jun 14, 2015

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Comments: Feels F7B+


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Natural Bridge / High Rock : Tucked Away Wall : Kick Ass (5.12d)
By: CrimperE6 When: Jun 14, 2015

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Comments: im happy to change the name if someone knows the real one!


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Natural Bridge / High Rock : Yellow Wall : Photo
By: CrimperE6 When: Jun 8, 2015

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Comments: Yellow wall proper, just on the R of the picture


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Ahab (5.10a) : Photo
By: CrimperE6 When: Jun 6, 2015

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Comments: massive rack, good for extra training!


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Outer Wall : Nemesis (5.10b/c)
By: CrimperE6 When: Jun 5, 2015

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Comments: keep going to the glue in anchor above the chains for 3m more climbing!


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Castle Crags : Six Toe Rock : Chocksucker (5.9)
By: CrimperE6 When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: Extend everything and do it in one pitch, dirty fun. A bit to easy to use the face holds unfortunately..


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Castle Crags : Six Toe Rock : Six Toe Crack (5.8+)
By: CrimperE6 When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: Bit average , OW is the best bit. Easy on is better.


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Castle Crags : Six Toe Rock : Over easy (5.9+)
By: CrimperE6 When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: This is actually the best route on the wall!! Will be classic when cleaned up with traffic.


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Castle Crags : Six Toe Rock : Photo
By: CrimperE6 When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: Cheers bro, saved us an age finding the crag. Guide book was useless!


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Castle Crags : Beck's Tower
By: CrimperE6 When: May 28, 2015

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Comments: In 25yrs of climbing around the world, Marble gully is the most overhyped dangerous sport / mixed climbing area ive been to. Poorly bolted routes with suspect gear behind fragile granite, coupled with a long hike up unmarked trails/scree make this a definite avoid area. Spend your 3hour approach on driving to Tahoe.
Not really "a new era in 13a", more like a return to those dodgy 13a's in the peak(UK) from the 1980s!
The few routes with mainly bolts are ok. I might go back if retrobolted.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : Open Book Area : Green Arch (5.11c)
By: CrimperE6 When: May 25, 2015

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Comments: P1 easy, P2 E56a/b. Not as pure as it looks as was easy to step off to the arete for a welcome rest in a couple of spots 2/3rds of the way along. Bizarrely I managed to chimney the 1st 1/3rd on the onsight.. Moves thru the arch not that bad, although bold as no pegs/gear for the entirety of the horizontal section so keep a lid on it..

the 5 pegs were solid, and easy to back up. Bolts??? Have u no respect for Tobin? On the contrary, We should consider improving on style and perhaps not adding a... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : The Edge (5.11a R)
By: CrimperE6 When: May 25, 2015

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Comments: E66a in real grades ;)

Have to disagree with J.Long on this one. The bottom arete is just average blocky granite and doesnt feel to add much (quite typical of the sea cliffs of SW England/Lundy). The purity of line starts above this darker band. Great route finding by Tobin to find the subtle weakness of edges to gain the arete. The moves above are a gripping and sustained 5c/6a. The rock was a bit crumbly as its obviously not done much.

All in all, Great route, but not quite a "mas... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Billabong (5.10d PG13)
By: CrimperE6 When: May 19, 2015

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Comments: probably R rated. Going right on the slab into the crack as in the photo is the more obvious way to climb this route. The direct mantle Brian mentions after is fun, but obviously way harder than 10c and can be easily bypassed by going R around the roof and traversing back L to the bolt.


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Calaveras Dome : War of the Walls (5.10c PG13)
By: CrimperE6 When: May 19, 2015

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Comments: accidently did a new variation to pitch 5, missed the 3rd bolt and went direct at 5.11aR ish or E4/5 6a in real trad grades ;)


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Wonderland : Clean Palms, Dirty Fingers (5.11)
By: CrimperE6 When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: duly noted, thanks for the scrub, i cleaned it for about an hour too! Ill change the grade, its hard to know when u have it wired from TR


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Outer Wall : Stretch Armstrong (5.10b/c)
By: CrimperE6 When: May 9, 2015

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Comments: ok, F6a maybe. The last move is probably the crux and can be bypassed by clipping the anchors at full reach


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Main Wall Cave Routes : Rock Candy (5.11d V4-)
By: CrimperE6 When: May 7, 2015

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Comments: ok, bit dusty, bloc F6c+/7a


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Main Wall Cave Routes : Porn Star (5.11 V2)
By: CrimperE6 When: May 7, 2015

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Comments: good fun, F6c?


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Wonderland : Pit Viper (5.13)
By: CrimperE6 When: May 6, 2015

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Comments: way to easy to escape R or L. Can be climbed at 7b+-8a depending on what holds are used. The funnest sequence is to go L at the Crux boss to get into the crack system out L.


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