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Member Since: Sep 5, 2012
Last Visit: 26 mins ago
Contact CrimperE6

Point Rank: # 225
Total Points: 2,519
Last Year: 1,900
Last 30 Days: 468
43 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has CrimperE6 been climbing?










Contributions


All 593 | Routes 73 | Areas 21 | Photos 281 | Page Improvements | Comments 70 | Posts 26 | Stars 122 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S...
By: CrimperE6 When: 12 hours ago

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Comments: A NOTE ON THE NEW GLUEIN BOLTS AND ANCHORS

Having lived in Sydney for the last 7 years, i learned to bolt in the sandstone of the blue mountains, under the tutelage of Mike Law and Steven Hawkshaw, both industrial engineers and climbers. The following document is the general guide that i follow.

google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&e...... more >>


Location: CA : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Back Walls : The Weeping Crack (5.8)
By: CrimperE6 When: 1 day ago

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Comments: retro-bolted 4x 3.5" fixe glueins (A7 adhesive) Feels more 5.7


Location: CA : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Back Walls : The Weeping Wall (5.9)
By: CrimperE6 When: Jul 23, 2015

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Comments: not a strong line, too close to the other routes


Location: CrimperE6 : N cal and locale' : Photo
By: CrimperE6 When: Jul 14, 2015

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Comments: Its just the vertebrae column, looks quite artistic and gross at the same time!


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Promontory : Puff Boulder : Clicking Barnacles (5.8)
By: CrimperE6 When: Jul 7, 2015

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Comments: nice pure arete with solid rock. sporty bolting not for beginners.. F6b if not bridging.
Old man Tony sounds grumpy ;), good effort rebolting the crag guys, thanks for all the hard work, much appreciation from the Redding crew. Makes for a really great weekend away for us.


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Promontory : Exploding Energy Shard Boul... : Reality Check (5.12b/c)
By: CrimperE6 When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: great route and solid rock. F7a+/b, morpho.


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Promontory : Main Wall : Shrapnel (5.11d)
By: CrimperE6 When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: bit crumbly, but good fun


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Promontory : Main Wall
By: CrimperE6 When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: Having climbed all over the world, this ranks as one the most crumbly walls ive seen bolted (probably worse than Sydney sea cliffs). Holds are covered in sand and edges will snap off on you on every burn. But good fun none the less. I noticed some of the new glueins already eroding around the edges on the anchors, so a little scary cleaning!


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Trinity ArÍtes : Visions Wall : Gooseberry (5.11c)
By: CrimperE6 When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: my favorite route on this wall! F6c+/7a. Can finish on the anchors to the L if the usual toprope is up


Location: CA : Northeast California : Castle Crags : Six Toe Rock
By: CrimperE6 When: Jun 30, 2015

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Comments: I have backed up the first 2 abseils with an extra bolt.

(The top pitch slings now have a new 5 piece (PS)powers bolt and fixe hanger(PS). and the 1st pitch chain now has a recycled stainless metolius hanger and mallion with new fixe 12mm x70mm triplex bolt)

I never topped out , but i read there are 2 bolts on top to rap from.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Lover's Leap : Plasma Wall
By: CrimperE6 When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: not very well bolted (for an onsight)


Location: CA : Northeast California : Lover's Leap : Trainwreck Wall : Jug Lord (5.11a)
By: CrimperE6 When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: better than it looks. A bit of crumble then the Top wall is mega


Location: CA : Northeast California : Lover's Leap : 45 Wall : 45 (5.10a)
By: CrimperE6 When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: if under 5.8" the first move will be heinous, rest of route is nice thou


Location: CA : Northeast California : Lover's Leap : 45 Wall : Gun Show (5.10c)
By: CrimperE6 When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: good route


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Natural Bridge / High Rock
By: CrimperE6 When: Jun 14, 2015

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Comments: Cheers for that Aaron, much appreciated. This place is awesome! Thanks for all the hard work.


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Natural Bridge / High Rock : Gray Wall : Massacre (5.12-)
By: CrimperE6 When: Jun 14, 2015

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Comments: Feels F7B+


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Natural Bridge / High Rock : Tucked Away Wall : Kick Ass (5.12d)
By: CrimperE6 When: Jun 14, 2015

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Comments: im happy to change the name if someone knows the real one!


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Natural Bridge / High Rock : Yellow Wall : Photo
By: CrimperE6 When: Jun 8, 2015

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Comments: Yellow wall proper, just on the R of the picture


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Ahab (5.10a) : Photo
By: CrimperE6 When: Jun 6, 2015

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Comments: massive rack, good for extra training!


Location: CA : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Outer Wall : Nemesis (5.10b/c)
By: CrimperE6 When: Jun 5, 2015

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Comments: keep going to the glue in anchor above the chains for 3m more climbing!


Location: CA : Northeast California : Castle Crags : Six Toe Rock : Chocksucker (5.9)
By: CrimperE6 When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: Extend everything and do it in one pitch, dirty fun. A bit to easy to use the face holds unfortunately..


Location: CA : Northeast California : Castle Crags : Six Toe Rock : Six Toe Crack (5.8+)
By: CrimperE6 When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: Bit average , OW is the best bit. Easy on is better.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Castle Crags : Six Toe Rock : Over easy (5.10c)
By: CrimperE6 When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: This is actually the best route on the wall!! Will be classic when cleaned up with traffic.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Castle Crags : Six Toe Rock : Photo
By: CrimperE6 When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: Cheers bro, saved us an age finding the crag. Guide book was useless!


Location: CA : Northeast California : Castle Crags : Beck's Tower
By: CrimperE6 When: May 28, 2015

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Comments: In 25yrs of climbing around the world, Marble gully is the most overhyped dangerous sport / mixed climbing area ive been to. Poorly bolted routes with suspect gear behind fragile granite, coupled with a long hike up unmarked trails/scree make this a definite avoid area. Spend your 3hour approach on driving to Tahoe.
Not really "a new era in 13a", more like a return to those dodgy 13a's in the peak(UK) from the 1980s!
The few routes with mainly bolts are ok. I might go back if retrobolted.


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