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Member Since: Sep 5, 2012
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact CrimperE6

Point Rank: # 399
Total Points: 1,573
Last Year: 954
Last 30 Days: 218
33 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 368 | Routes 45 | Areas 16 | Photos 167 | Page Improvements | Comments 48 | Posts 14 | Stars 78 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : Open Book Area : Green Arch (5.11c)
By: CrimperE6 When: 21 hours ago

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Comments: P1 easy, P2 E56a/b. Not as pure as it looks as was easy to step off to the arete for a welcome rest in a couple of spots 2/3rds of the way along. Bizarrely I managed to chimney the 1st 1/3rd on the onsight.. Moves thru the arch not that bad, although bold as no pegs/gear for the entirety of the horizontal section so keep a lid on it..

the 5 pegs were solid, and easy to back up. Bolts??? Have u no respect for Tobin? On the contrary, We should consider improving on style and perhaps not adding a... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : The Edge (5.11a R)
By: CrimperE6 When: 21 hours ago

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Comments: E66a in real grades ;)

Have to disagree with J.Long on this one. The bottom arete is just average blocky granite and doesnt feel to add much (quite typical of the sea cliffs of SW England/Lundy). The purity of line starts above this darker band. Great route finding by Tobin to find the subtle weakness of edges to gain the arete. The moves above are a gripping and sustained 5c/6a. The rock was a bit crumbly as its obviously not done much.

All in all, Great route, but not quite a "mas... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Billabong (5.10d PG13)
By: CrimperE6 When: May 19, 2015

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Comments: probably R rated. Going right on the slab into the crack as in the photo is the more obvious way to climb this route. The direct mantle Brian mentions after is fun, but obviously way harder than 10c and can be easily bypassed by going R around the roof and traversing back L to the bolt.


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Calaveras Dome : War of the Walls (5.10c PG13)
By: CrimperE6 When: May 19, 2015

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Comments: accidently did a new variation to pitch 5, missed the 3rd bolt and went direct at 5.11aR ish or E4/5 6a in real trad grades ;)


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Wonderland : Dirty Fingers, Clean Palms (5.11)
By: CrimperE6 When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: duly noted, thanks for the scrub, i cleaned it for about an hour too! Ill change the grade, its hard to know when u have it wired from TR


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Outer Wall : Stretch Armstrong (5.10b/c)
By: CrimperE6 When: May 9, 2015

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Comments: ok, F6a maybe. The last move is probably the crux and can be bypassed by clipping the anchors at full reach


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : West Side Cave Routes : Rock Candy (5.11d V4+)
By: CrimperE6 When: May 7, 2015

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Comments: ok, bit dusty, bloc F6c+/7a


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : West Side Cave Routes : Porn Star (5.11b/c V4)
By: CrimperE6 When: May 7, 2015

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Comments: good fun, F6c?


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Wonderland : Pit Viper (5.13)
By: CrimperE6 When: May 6, 2015

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Comments: it looks maybe F7c. Will be good once cleaned up. I will replace the bolts and anchor with glueins soon


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : ... : Photo
By: CrimperE6 When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: looks just like grit!


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Approach Wall : Birds, Snakes & Airplanes (5.11a)
By: CrimperE6 When: Apr 26, 2015

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Comments: eliminate climbing


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Approach Wall : Not Where, But Who (5.10c)
By: CrimperE6 When: Apr 26, 2015

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Comments: one (good) move wonder


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Outer Wall : Jaws (5.9)
By: CrimperE6 When: Apr 26, 2015

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Comments: Felt like 5.6 ( going on Tahoe grades as reference)


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : Pancake tuesday (5.12a)
By: CrimperE6 When: Apr 19, 2015

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Comments: might be 7b, i cant tell


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Opposite Main Wall : Chastity Belt (5.10a/b)
By: CrimperE6 When: Apr 19, 2015

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Comments: 5 new fixe glueins, 10mm x 150mm A7 glue


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Right ... : ... : Photo
By: CrimperE6 When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: not a 1st ascent then :)


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : The Lost Sierra : Bald Rock : Bald Rock Dome : The Groove (5.9)
By: CrimperE6 When: Apr 12, 2015

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Comments: would be 3stars if it had decent bolted anchors. The original route has small pitches, ending in non logical belays. (it would be way better to end for example on the obvious ledge.) So we ended up running pitches together, basically stopping at about 60m out, then setting up an anchor on whatever.

1st pitch is by far the hardest technical climbing, with a couple of smearing moves on superb granite straight from Tuolumne meadows..


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : The Lost Sierra : Bald Rock : Bald Rock Dome : ... : Photo
By: CrimperE6 When: Apr 12, 2015

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Comments: i have climbed off route here. Groove is shown on the L


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Cantara Loop
By: CrimperE6 When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: best routes are limited to the RHS. Rest are chossy trad routes. Really nice place to be by the river though..


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, West Face : Fat Merchant Crack (5.10b X)
By: CrimperE6 When: Apr 5, 2015

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Comments: couldnt find the peg.. Also its death without 12" pro. My camalot 6 was useless


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Opposite Main Wall : "Project" Right Arete (5.12+)
By: CrimperE6 When: Mar 16, 2015

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Comments: meh.... a couple of hard moves then easy. bloc 7a+


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Back Walls : Swallow Hole (5.10b)
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 18, 2014

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Comments: good route, lower pockets are muddy. French 6a+


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : No Quarter (5.12c)
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 16, 2014

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Comments: amazing route, better than it looked from the ground. Last 1/2 is non stop pump with the crux where it should be, at the top. solid 7b+!

march 2015 - independant start added 1m L of crank whore starting up a crack, with new 12mm fixe glueins (red A7). This should reduce rope drag. I will take the rest of the old ones out in due course


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Pachyderm Wall AKA Sunshine... : Sunshine Face Bolt Ladder ... (C1)
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: my 70m doubled, reached the bottom of the route in one go.
Follows the obvious crack on RHS of wall.
There is a random lower off 5m off the ground..
22 bolts for some reason, although we only used 12 quickdraws and did it in one 35m pitch. dirty and somewhat loose in places. One obvious hard bit and rest is ok. Felt like E25c. Seems like they tried too hard to force the action on the top wall, trending R for a few moves, but this is easy and more fun (and runout) to bypass by just continuing u... more >>


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Trinity ArÍtes
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 9, 2014

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Comments: north facing and probably not the best place to be in winter, especially the tendency for local fog and some seepage. Crag bottom is a steep loose (muddy) slope, bring a rope bag. Small area really, vertical crimping wall is ok but the 45degree wall is world class for the >7c climber, and without the polish!


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