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Member Since: Jun 8, 2009
Last Visit: Jul 9, 2014
Contact crimpandpeel


Point Rank: # 10,588
Total Points: 20
Last Year: 5
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has crimpandpeel been climbing?










Contributions


All 24 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 20 | Posts | Stars | Ratings 4

Contributed Comments

 

Location: IA : Ozark Wildlife Area : Hoot Bluff : Golden Showers (5.12a)
By: crimpandpeel When: Jun 18, 2014

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Comments: I replaced both spinners today on Golden Shower, bolts looked totally fine, they just slipped a little. They looked really good for being 20 yrs old, very little rust, threads looked good. I'll get back to paint the new ones next time out, enjoy the climb.


Location: IA : Indian Bluffs : Boneless Chicken Ranch : Between the Sheets (5.11a)
By: crimpandpeel When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: crux is up the bolt line with-in reason, if you find yourself thinking the sideways swing might hurt- you are probably off route, if you realize the holds are small and slopy with a big reach right below the belly then you nailed it and continue up and over the mini roof for pretty fun climbing


Location: IA : Ozark Wildlife Area : Hoot Bluff : Deer Crossing (5.11b)
By: crimpandpeel When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: no more shiny new chains, they were removed and new painted ones are installed- shiny gear will be removed or painted as we are trying not draw attention to the area, its a black-eye to the climbers when you can see gear from a mile away.

enjoy


Location: IA : Pictured Rocks
By: crimpandpeel When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: Hey person that is putting fixed biners on the Wild Iowa wall- I need you to please contact me asap as there is a problem with your set-ups. If you don't respond by Saturday August 10th- I'm going to remove your systems and go back to quicklinks. You are compromising the anchor systems that took me over a year fix them all. I am very serious about this, it's a safety issue- and this goes for all routes at Pictured Rocks.
Any routes that climbers would like to have fixed biners on, you need to... more >>


Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Shiprock : Over The Counter (5.9 PG13) : Photo
By: crimpandpeel When: Aug 3, 2013

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Comments: maybe go buy a stick-clip and save your tree bolt clipping skills for a crag far far away


Location: IA : Indian Bluffs
By: crimpandpeel When: May 22, 2013

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Comments: Dan- that route is a pile by Iowa standards, a do it once and never again, there are quite a few really good climbs at I.B., trad as well- yes the crack has been done, I'm sure every crack out there has been done atleast once. Move to the right on MotherWall past the table rock and look up at a 80' party, C-N-Red 11c, super fun and there are 4 more to the right on a flanking wall, skip the first 2 and climb thwe other 2 on the right side of a crack, fun as well, I suggest you buy a guide book fo... more >>


Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishin' ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: crimpandpeel When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: So I'm the guy that put this climb up, pretty heated slapfest going on here. As I'm a developer with only a few hundred routes installed and countless hours doing work, making trails and paths to limit impact- I paint hangers to look natural and remain unseen. I've met and am friends with a shit ton of other developers that put in the same efforts so climbers that don't do work can have a place to play with little recognition and we usually don't want it but would like a little respect and pati... more >>


Location: IA : Ozark Wildlife Area : Hoot Bluff : Gravity Amp (5.12a)
By: crimpandpeel When: Dec 21, 2012

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Comments: Hey Eldo- those hooks won't hold a truck, those things are junk and will be removed shortly- can't believe you think they are ok- unrated cast come-a-long hooks are what they are from, we have been working on fixing the crag so little changes will happen soon- everything will be checked and unrated gear is gone- this isn't the Rockies where if you die, no one cares- climbing is touchy here in Iowa and as Joe said we can expand but need to show we can manage the areas we have now by checking and ... more >>


Location: IA : Pictured Rocks
By: crimpandpeel When: Jul 7, 2011

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Comments: No problem, i can always use some help doing one of many things out at P.R.. I'm really trying to make the place safer and in all better for everyone, i hope you get out and enjoy it and thanks.


Location: IA : Indian Bluffs
By: crimpandpeel When: Nov 13, 2010

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Comments: hey this comment goes out to the tool of a climber(s) having a fire at Hoot Bluff right by the wall where packs go and leaving a mess there, nice way to leave no trace, how about low key and hand warmers next time.


Location: IA : Indian Bluffs : Blue Groove : Boiler (5.11c)
By: crimpandpeel When: Oct 29, 2010

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Comments: Hey mossman, just wanted to say I think your height of this route is a little short by a few feet, 10 I think.


Location: IA : Indian Bluffs : Boneless Chicken Ranch : Between the Sheets (5.11a)
By: crimpandpeel When: Jan 5, 2010

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Comments: all I'm saying is be real about your effort, don't cheat it-do it clean.
think of other surrounding grades and other climbers that might be at that level and so one might not get in over their heads. I've seen some climbers dog a route and then grade it from that. I don't agree with that


Location: IA : Pictured Rocks
By: crimpandpeel When: Nov 15, 2009

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Comments: Glad to see people are noticing improvements to P.R.. this is going to be an ongoing process for a few months so please be patient. This isn't the ICC doing it but a few of us were elected to bring this area back where it needs to be and safety is at the top. So, more to come out there and thanks for the props. have fun and climb hard and safe.
T


Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Shiprock : Silk Road (aka Somn Somn) (5.10b)
By: crimpandpeel When: Oct 28, 2009

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Comments: This is not the name of this route, it's actually called Silk Road- Bolted by Shawn Kintzle and the F.A. by him as well. so for the weekend warriors that start posting who knows and ratings that not done from the ground up, clean, not hanging on every bolt and throwing out some rating that could get a climber hurt by bad raters that love posting crap ratings, keep your opinionated rating to yourself please.

this also goes for Indian Bluffs area. Hey if you really can't do the moves, zip it... more >>


Location: IA : Indian Bluffs : Boneless Chicken Ranch : Between the Sheets (5.11a)
By: crimpandpeel When: Oct 24, 2009

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Comments: try climbing the routes from the ground up, don't hang dog it and give it a real rating.


Location: IA : Ozark Wildlife Area : Hoot Bluff : Photo
By: crimpandpeel When: Oct 6, 2009

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Comments: hey, maybe you didn't notice, there isn't a good view that pile


Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : A Wall : Super Fly (5.11b)
By: crimpandpeel When: Sep 13, 2009

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Comments: i'm pretty sure i Tagged that route closed for repairs and should not be climbed until i rebolt a coulpe spinners. Anyway, the climb is closed for a few weeks.
thanks


Location: IA : Indian Bluffs
By: crimpandpeel When: Jun 9, 2009

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Comments: If you do find this park, a good idea is to try and get a guide of some sort or a local to show you the routes to get on and ones not to. there are some pretty fun climbing routes here and you should not have any issues with routes on private land here, but there are routes on PRIVATE land in Iowa. If you happen upon this place, and you will know you are not where you should be, best to turn around and go back the way you came. there are draws hanging on some routes and are not free for the t... more >>


Location: IA : Indian Bluffs : Photo
By: crimpandpeel When: Jun 9, 2009

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Comments: either you are on a 11d that goes all the way up or your on 11c Between the sheets next to the 5.8 that has an extention


Location: IA : Indian Bluffs : Photo
By: crimpandpeel When: Jun 9, 2009

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Comments: the wall is Boulevard, the climb is Go Left 10a
to the left is- No Response 10c
Ward Off 11b
Ordinary Freak 11c/d


Contributed Ratings

Name Established Rating Suggested Rating Location

El Diablo

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

IA : Indian Bluffs : Boulevard Wall

Fat Chicks on Pogo Sticks

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

IA : Pictured Rocks : Windy Point

In Through the Outhole

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

IA : Indian Bluffs : Boneless Chicken Ranch

Between the Sheets

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

IA : Indian Bluffs : Boneless Chicken Ranch