Comments: As previously stated, this climb rules. You can get a good small cam (I used the 0.4 grey Camalot) way out left and around the corner from the main dihedral. You place it after you make the first move above the fixed cam from a good right hand hold. It's kind of a blind placement, but you can eye it up from the ground. Getting this piece allows you to punch through the crux section and not have to place pumpy gear.
Comments: Awesome route. Stays shaded all day long, great for an afternoon outing or second route at the squaw. Do it as 3 long pitches--60 meter route gets you down no problem. Props to Robin and his crew for finding this hidden gem!
Comments: As of 10/07, there is still a fixed hex to rappel of the back side. We backed it up with a stopper and added some webbing. One rap with 2 ropes. It took us a little over two hours for the approach.