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Member Since: May 25, 2010
Last Visit: Sep 15, 2014
Contact Craig Smith


Point Rank: # 12,663
Total Points: 13
Last Year: 3
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Craig Smith been climbing?










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All 13 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 13 | Posts | Stars | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : Grand Illusion (5.13b)
By: Craig Smith When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: For the record both Tod Skinner and I did it in '86 before Suzuki I think, and we placed all the gear on lead. I'm not aware of anybody who has flashed the route placing all the gear on lead. I think some have pink pointed the route with gear in place.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : The Mule (5.12b)
By: Craig Smith When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: I climbed a new route to the left of The Mule in '86 with Ray Ringle. It was a sport route that went up a runnel at about 12+. Did this route get chopped because I don't see it in the guide?


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : Scirocco (5.12-)
By: Craig Smith When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: Did it in '86. The top arete is very memorable especially when the 'breeze' is blowing hard and trying to spin you off the arete!


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : Sea of Tranquility (5.11c/d PG13)
By: Craig Smith When: Jun 15, 2012

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Comments: Did it in about '86 with Ron Carson. The '5.11' pitches felt harder that 5.11! I led the first long 5.11 pitch and it felt like good English E5. On the next pitch, the short 5.11 pitch, Ron pulled a hold off of which made for a really hard move. I think it's safe to say that both 5.11 pitches were probably 5.12a if not harder.


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Spiny Dogfish (5.11c)
By: Craig Smith When: Jul 22, 2011

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Comments: British Airways wasn't my doing, that was Mick Ryan! So I guess my bolts were not too bad?

For a lyrca fix see:

ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.h...

Cheers,

Craig


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : King Cobra (5.13b)
By: Craig Smith When: Jul 22, 2011

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Comments: Thanks for clearing that up. I remember that the bottom of the line I bolted was always wet and this as one of the reasons I never really rp'd the line. Should have been savvy like you and rerouted/chosen another line up this fine wall.

Cheers,

Craig


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : King Cobra (5.13b)
By: Craig Smith When: Jul 21, 2011

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Comments: Hi,

Did this have bolts in before you (Mark?) did it? I bolted a line up here with a heinous start off to the right and then up the line I think your route takes.

I'm interested to hear the history...oh and no I didn't do any chipping!

Cheers,

Craig


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Thin Man (5.13b)
By: Craig Smith When: Jul 21, 2011

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Comments: Scott and I bolted this route. I missed the first ascent due to work. Went back and climbed the route and kicked myself....great route...


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Spiny Dogfish (5.11c)
By: Craig Smith When: Jul 21, 2011

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Comments: No worries guys. When I wrote the bit about 'the police' I was smiling ; )
As for the bolts, it was raining when I drilled, bolted and climbed the route so that might explain their quality. I'm happy it's at least kept it's name!

Come to visit England sometime.

All the best,

Craig


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Spiny Dogfish (5.11c)
By: Craig Smith When: Jul 19, 2011

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Comments: Hi,

I bolted it and climbed it. There was nothing absurd about it. It was just another route for people to enjoy. The self elected Rumney police..yes you know who you are, decided this route wasn't worthy...
Anyway, please credit me with the first ascent. Tom Nonnis and Steve Potter were also present.
Cheers,

Craig


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Volcanic Tablelands (Happy/... : Sad Boulders : ... : Molly (V5)
By: Craig Smith When: Jul 19, 2011

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Comments: Hi,

Russ is correct. I did the first ascent of this and it's named after my wife.....


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Golden Beaver Left (5.13-)
By: Craig Smith When: Jun 1, 2010

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Comments: Nice one Eric. I very much enjoyed watching the video.

I noticed you did the top crux section the 'hard way'! I did it with Todd Skinner around '86 and he did it that way. I took the 'easy' option and climbed the crux crack by laybackin the right hand side of the crack then crossing through. Wolfgang Gullich did it this way too :)

Could somebody clarify for me when the bolts appeared? I'm more or less certain when Todd and I did it the gear was nuts, friends and and fixed pins.

All the best,
... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Davidson Wall : The Equalizer (5.13- R)
By: Craig Smith When: May 25, 2010

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Comments: Hi,

I lead it in June '86. As far as I am aware this was the first lead. I placed all the gear on the lead and did it ground up. Russel Eriksson and Hassan Saab belayed me if you need any confirmation. I think I may even have some pics of the first ascent somewhere.

I think Jonny did it after me.

All the best,
Craig