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Member Since: Sep 30, 2001
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact Craig Quincy


Point Rank: # 2,028
Total Points: 287
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Craig Quincy been climbing?










Contributions


All 204 | Routes 10 | Areas 9 | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 52 | Posts 93 | Stars 27 | Ratings 13
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Splitting Hares (5.10a)
By: Craig Quincy When: Oct 12, 2014

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Comments: The links on the top anchor are pretty worn and have a sharp edge. They could use an update.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon
By: Craig Quincy When: Jun 1, 2011

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Comments: Ticks are out in force.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Crackside (5.9+)
By: Craig Quincy When: Apr 3, 2011

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Comments: Surprisingly fun route. The crux for me was clipping the bolt after the crack. I ended up climbing by the two bolts on the direct variation, but then going right to the lower anchor.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Guppy (5.8)
By: Craig Quincy When: Apr 3, 2011

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Comments: Brilliant route on perfect rock.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall : Gneiss Roof (AKA: Nice Ride... (5.9+)
By: Craig Quincy When: Oct 5, 2010

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Comments: What a fantastic route! I was grinning ear to ear for two days afterward. This is a great addition to Clear Creek.


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Big Bend Bouldering Area : The Black Box : Center Start (V1)
By: Craig Quincy When: Mar 28, 2010

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Comments: This route is absolutely perfect. Perfect! Great little crimps with a friendly top out.


Location: CO : Kelly Cordes Needs Our Help
By: Craig Quincy When: Feb 9, 2010

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Comments: Kelly, best wishes for a speedy and full recovery! Sorry to hear that you had a bad day out there. I've really been enjoying your blog. Thanks for taking the time to post your thoughts.


Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : La Vaca Peligrosa (5.8)
By: Craig Quincy When: Oct 26, 2009

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Comments: Damion, your route made the classics list. I think that would have made you happy. We miss you!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: Craig Quincy When: Dec 10, 2008

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Comments: That appears to be not just any climber, but the unstoppable Forrest Noble!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Streaked Wall : Tale of the Scorpion (5.10a A3+) : Photo
By: Craig Quincy When: Nov 4, 2008

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Comments: That is a cool picture!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Green Spur (5.9)
By: Craig Quincy When: Mar 2, 2008

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Comments: Ron, I find your suggestion pedantic and a bit hilarious. I'd recommend people strongly discount your advice on clambering across the choss strewn routes of Eldo in the hope of avoiding the chop on other routes in Eldo with loose rock. There's is always a small probability your number is going to come up and some objective hazard is going to ruin your day or end your life. I don't see how your recommendation changes that. Whatever you can learn from climbing loose rock, I suspect you can le... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Green Spur (5.9)
By: Craig Quincy When: Mar 2, 2008

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Comments: It's been another harsh winter in Boulder, so things that have been solid in the past probably aren't anymore. I thought I'd repost this from the conditions comments to here as a poignant reminder to be careful out there and to note that the third pitch of Green Spur is loose and best avoided.

From July 5th, 2006....

My partner and I went up to climb Yellow Spur, but since it was busy we decided to do the Green Spur instead. We both climb harder than that and have many years of climbing in El... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Love Route (5.9)
By: Craig Quincy When: Jul 26, 2007

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Comments: This is a good alternative to the Culp-Busy-eh?. This past weekend there were 4 parties cued up for that route, and none for this. We did some so-so pitches to the right of the huge dihedral and then cut hard left for a full pitch to get back on the Love Route. The top few pitches of this route are outstanding.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Wet Dreams (5.10a)
By: Craig Quincy When: Jul 26, 2007

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Comments: This route appears to have been retro bolted. There's no chains or links on the anchor bolts, so you'd probably want to use the Gully Washer anchor to get down.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : A Brief History of Time (5.9)
By: Craig Quincy When: Jul 26, 2007

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Comments: There's a new bolted route just right of this. 5.10 or so taking the bulge via stemming in the scoop on the right. Fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Warning: The rappel tree on...
By: Craig Quincy When: Jul 10, 2007

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Comments: Heh, I guess mother nature gets the final say on this one. I'm glad common sense prevailed and the anchor was approved and installed before disaster struck.


Location: CO : Eldorado State Park Accide...
By: Craig Quincy When: May 24, 2007

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Comments: I don't like the idea of putting warning signs along the trails. There's just way too much dangerous stuff in Eldo to label. However, if people want to go that route, we'd need a sign at the base of Green Spur that says "Watch out for falling Craigs and rocks". Oh yeah, and one at the base of Wind Ridge that says the same thing. Come to think of it, maybe I'm the one that needs the sign.

The placement of the WI anchors is a little awkward, but I doubt if moving them would solve these lowerin... more >>


Location: CO : Eldorado State Park Accide...
By: Craig Quincy When: May 22, 2007

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Comments: How do you propose hanging such tags?

The method I've seen which works well is to put the tags on a nylon dog collar and then put the collar on a dog with a medium build and long taill. Beagles and Blue Healers are suitable breeds. Then tie a prussik on the dog's tail and simply clip the prussik to the anchor with a locking caribiner.

Voila. :-)


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Green Spur (5.9)
By: Craig Quincy When: Jun 30, 2006

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Comments: Heads up for the next parties to do the full route!

A big section of rock came out of the little corner that you climb to get to the roof above Grandmother's Challenge. This is the first 5-10 feet of pitch 3 off of the red ledge after you move the belay. Although the big stuff is gone (I think), there's going to be more loose stuff in that corner, so be careful.

As for me, some of the rock fell on my leg after I decked on the ledge. Now I know how Wiley Coyote feels. My partner had to sel... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : T2 (5.10d R)
By: Craig Quincy When: Jun 24, 2006

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Comments: There are currently 4 pins on the upper "rotten band" traverse. They are obvious if you climb high enough. If you don't see them keep going up the corner. You pass at least 2 other spots where you could go left, but shouldn't.

T1.9 is my favorite long moderate in Eldo. The traversing finger crack pitch off the upper ramp is spectacular.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Signs of Life (5.11b)
By: Craig Quincy When: May 19, 2006

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Comments: The first hanger is currently in situ.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Warning: The rappel tree on...
By: Craig Quincy When: Apr 11, 2006

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Comments: Tony, I can not take your comment seriously given that Adam was up there and saw the tree lifting up and the rock moving. Better safe than sorry.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Notchtop : Direct South Ridge (5.9)
By: Craig Quincy When: Sep 22, 2005

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Comments: Stellar climb. Be prepared to route find to stay on the path of least resistance. I got confused by the copious beta provided here and just went where it looked best.

Descent : You need two ropes to do the new bolted rappels. We did one rap into the notch, a 1/4 rope length of scrambling to get on the ledge with the new bolts and then 3 rappels to the ground. The last rap has a nasty knot eating notch, so you will want to position your knot below that after you rappel over it.

Thanks to... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Otis Peak : Zowie : South Face (5.8+)
By: Craig Quincy When: Sep 22, 2005

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Comments: The crux offwidth is a little spicy, but there's good gear at your feet when you bust the moves. A big cam is fairly useless. My partner pull off a large block following the OW which landed on the belay, so future parties might want to be wary at the first overlap.

There are new bolted anchors down the back side (to the North, not to the West). A single rope gets you down. There are 2 raps down the spire, then one more at the end of the gully.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : Middle Fork of St. Vrain Ca... : Piz Badille : The Ridge (5.8)
By: Craig Quincy When: Aug 14, 2005

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Comments: This route reminded me of an outing in the [Cascades]. The rock is absent of cracks except where the rock has fractured. It's not the loveable granite found in RMNP, Lumpy or BoCan.

I attempted to follow the path of least resistance on pitch one and followed the same path outlined in Ivan's photo below. It's definitely a little sketchy after the overlap with a runout, a couple loose holds and shakey RP's for protection after lauching up the left facing corner. All the bad things converge at... more >>


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