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Potrero Mexico, Sport Climbing Mecca.


Member Since: Aug 28, 2006
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Craig Childre


Point Rank: # 69
Total Points: 4,727
Last Year: 101
Last 30 Days: 2
37 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Craig Childre been climbing?










Contributions


All (998) | Routes (356) | Areas (48) | Photos (59) | Comments (152) | Posts (63) | Stars (288) | Ratings (32)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Mount Scott : Upper Mount Scott
By: Craig Childre When: Mar 28, 2014

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Comments: Now days .... beer gets you $150 ticket!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Arapahoe Peaks : Skywalker Couloir : Photo
By: Craig Childre When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: Know it's steep when the uphill hand is dragging.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Sitting Bull Falls : Rose Bud Wall : Dwight's White Christmas (5.11b)
By: Craig Childre When: Feb 11, 2014

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Comments: Bees are gone, the fire took them out.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : Fall Wall (*the route) (5.10a)
By: Craig Childre When: Jan 17, 2014

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Comments: If a fall is 'unthinkable', then IMHO, it should get an R rating, very least the PG-13. I've not seen the 'S' designation anywhere before?


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf : ... : Photo
By: Craig Childre When: Jan 8, 2014

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Comments: Well, when rapping the loads shouldn't get high enough to cause the issues described above. I am sure when you lead to this anchor a sliding X or quickdraws are deployed to lower the angle of intersection.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon
By: Craig Childre When: Jan 6, 2014

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Comments: Road Report: Worst conditions since they closed the firewood cutting area in 04'-05'. The mud isn't bad right now but any significant rainfall could make the large ruts impassable without 4wd. The ruts mean you need high clearance to drive past the 1st gate. Two weeks back a power line was down across the road, about head height. Any updates would be appreciated.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf : ... : Photo
By: Craig Childre When: Dec 19, 2013

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Comments: Who needs sticky rubber! In 78 all you needed were some cutoffs and a pair of waffle stompers!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : From Switzerland With Love (5.13c) : Photo
By: Craig Childre When: Dec 13, 2013

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Comments: Berthod GOLD!


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : News Wall : Walter Funkite (5.4)
By: Craig Childre When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: This was my first on site free solo. The hard moves are very low, the upper crack is so big it's a cakewalk. The down climbing was just as easy. If you can lead sweat... this is a gimme FS.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Photo
By: Craig Childre When: Oct 11, 2013

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Comments: 2nd pitch or 2nd pinch? ;)


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Fossil Wall : The Relic (5.9)
By: Craig Childre When: Oct 2, 2013

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Comments: The roof is a 5.9 move. Their are ways to do it that make it feel like a V1, but the simplest way up is 5.9. The move feels insecure, but the rock above the roof is so abrasive I usually just crank up using slopers.


Location: OK : Quartz Mountain : Snakes Head / S Wall : S-Wall (5.9 R)
By: Craig Childre When: Sep 25, 2013

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Comments: S-Wall is IMHO, one of the signature routes at Quartz. It embodies all the best qualities climbing here represents. The lower run out seems wild, but the climbing is 5.3-5.5ish, and shouldn't be an issue. The business of the climb is well protected and a stout 5.9. If you can complete the crux, the run out moves above it should be easy. RX is best left too the likes of Big Bite... which has 40' run out to 5.10 friction moves. A true Quartz Classic.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Sitting Bull Falls
By: Craig Childre When: Sep 24, 2013

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Comments: The main hive of bees is gone. Fire either destroyed the hive or forced the queen to relocate. So have a go at the Brit route!


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf : ... : Photo
By: Craig Childre When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: Another note... In quality stone like this. I am a fan of stacking the bolts vertically offset to one side, instead of horizontally equal height. Setting a rap ring on the lower, and a length of chain to extend the top, down to match the lower. This places a much lower force upon both anchor points. My 2 cents...


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf : ... : Photo
By: Craig Childre When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: Consider the angles created by this anchor. I'm not saying this is wrong by any means. But if a length of chain is added to both so the anchors intersection (power point) has an angle closer to 50 -60 degree range. The lower the angle the lower the force applied to each anchor. A high angle of say 160 degrees multiplies the force applied to the anchor.


Location: CO : Mountain Project App: Take ...
By: Craig Childre When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: I haven't used it yet. Thus I am limited to suggesting that a free version would be most welcome. Limited how? I don't know.... The crags I frequent, cell towers are nowhere.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : The Return of Mudzilla (A3)
By: Craig Childre When: Jul 18, 2013

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Comments: I have gotta question the grade V rating.... 5 pitches, even if it's aid ? Grade III takes all day... Grade IV means you will probably have to bivy. Grade V, only speed climbing teams typically complete under 24 hours. These grades are representative of the climbing, not the approach, as I understand. That aside... great looking line, nice work.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Tornado Alley : Unknown (5.12c)
By: Craig Childre When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: Watched Gogas put this route up back in 2005 day before the canyon flooded.


Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : Piedra River : Piedra River - Lower West : Black Beauty (5.8+)
By: Craig Childre When: Jun 30, 2013

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Comments: Good route, a bit tough for noobs, but at 8+, it should be.... I was fooled, thinking I was on the 5.7 (which is to the left). Much more satisifed even though I struggled with the sequence through the crux. I am pretty sure it has 6 bolts....


Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : Piedra River : Piedra River - Lower West : Trigger (5.6)
By: Craig Childre When: Jun 30, 2013

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Comments: I believe a wasp or hornet next is under the last roof on this route. I put up the TR and kid climbed to it and couldn't pass it as the next was in the key hold. I would suggest someone go up late one evening with a can of spray and netting to flush them out.


Location: CO : Durango : Lemon Reservoir : West Side : Finding Forester (5.8)
By: Craig Childre When: Jun 20, 2013

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Comments: I remember when Jimmy passed. My first trip to Potrero, the 99 pitches of Wildest Ride In The Park sounded like some fantasy route. Sad news when he was lost soloing it, but at least he was doing what most probably want to be doing when the time comes. RIP, Jimmy.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: Craig Childre When: Jun 20, 2013

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Comments: In reference to the retro bolting....
As a non-local flatlander who has to drive several hours to reach stone of any quality, may I point one thing out! You live minutes from the rock! Good rock at that... and more than any of us could climb in a lifetime! So, may I suggest to anyone looking to retrobolt a 30 year old classic... please go find some new stone to develop, maybe a whole new area? While clipping new bolts on the classic will render some additional enjoyment, if you go clear a la... more >>


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Wapiti Bouldering : Straight Outta Nowhere (V7+ PG13) : Photo
By: Craig Childre When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: Great action shot with the bird of prey circling above the top out!


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Pogue's Cave Area : Pogue's Arete (5.11-) : Photo
By: Craig Childre When: May 7, 2013

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Comments: Great shot! Love the use of the offset strobe to give some fill but not flatten it out the way a direct strobe would. Excellent depiction of the POV from the back of the cave.


Location: OK : Quartz Mountain : Snakes Head / S Wall : Big Bite (5.10b X)
By: Craig Childre When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: Duane recently wrote about Big Bite, not directly, but where else are you gonna fine a 2nd pitch with only one bolt in the 80's.

Duane talks about catching the mother of all whippers in this article.


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