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Member Since: Jul 17, 2006
Last Visit: Apr 25, 2014
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1400 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 40 | Page Improvments | Comments 44 | Posts 1092 | Stars 125 | Ratings 96
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Lincoln Lake Slabs : Emancipation Arete (5.10-)
By: Crag Dweller When: Aug 3, 2013

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Comments: A good, very well-bolted route. Felt a little stiff for 10-. There is also a bit of exfoliation still occurring so don't be surprised if that little edge you're holding on to breaks away as you pull on it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Icarus (5.6 R)
By: Crag Dweller When: Jun 1, 2013

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Comments: This is a great route. Not sure I'd put a new(ish) 5.6 leader on it, though. There's the runout last pitch, which has been mentioned, and the traverse at the end of the dihedral on the second pitch is a bit thin with the potential for a pendulum fall that could be jarring.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : "Is Our Children Learning?" (5.9+)
By: Crag Dweller When: Nov 17, 2012

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Comments: A really fun route, a little dirty in places but otherwise a lot of fun. I thought the bolt placement higher up added just the right amount of spice.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger
By: Crag Dweller When: Sep 30, 2012

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Comments: There was apparently some sizable rockfall here recently. There are a few big blocks of stone at the base that weren't there a week or so ago. One of them is probably somewhere between 200 and 300 pounds and has a hangerless bolt in it.

We couldn't see where it had come from and thought it may've come from higher up on one of the 2-pitch routes.

Edit to add: These weren't there after Mike and others cleaned the wall. They've fallen more recently than that.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : The Decider (5.10a/b)
By: Crag Dweller When: Sep 30, 2012

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Comments: I thought this was a fun, casual route. Moderate climbing with a couple spots that are easy 10ish and well protected. This would be a good route for someone breaking into the 10 range in CCC.

As others have said, yard on that rail below the first bolt at your own risk. That block of rock isn't always going to be there.

And, it wouldn't be a bad idea to put a long or extended draw on the bolt just before you get to the roof. I didn't and found myself dealing with quite a bit of rope drag.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Mesca-Line (5.7)
By: Crag Dweller When: Sep 22, 2012

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Comments: I agree with others who've posted...the crux was, for me, between the little tree ledge and the flake. Once at the flake, the moves are somewhat committing but they're much easier than the ones you just did.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : The Naked Hedge (5.10)
By: Crag Dweller When: Sep 15, 2012

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Comments: I really enjoyed this route. It must've been cleaned up a lot since it was first opened. Perhaps it's one of the routes cleaned up this summer when the canyon was closed?

Down low there are definitely some inviting holds that don't appear all that reliable, but there was solid rock there for the moves. Higher up, I thought the climbing was great.

The upper dihedral felt more dynamic than the lower section, but that may've been due to the fact that I was getting pumped and moving out of despe... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Twilight Zone : The Chaser (5.11-)
By: Crag Dweller When: Aug 31, 2012

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Comments: A really fun route. The roof was more pumpy than I anticipated and, after a little rest, the headwall continues to challenge with a steep, tricky sequence.

A couple of suggestions. First, as others have said, the lower half is really chossy, so the belayer should set up with the ability to get out of the way in case anything comes down. And, you'll save yourself some rope drag if you use long draws on the 2nd and 3rd bolts, plus you'll prevent the rope from running across the edge of the roof.... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Persistent Vegetative State (5.10b)
By: Crag Dweller When: Aug 22, 2012

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Comments: None of the moves on this route stuck out to me as 10b, but, by the end, the pump was starting to creep in.

Edit to add after getting back on this route: I must've been on a low gravity day the first time on this. I don't know what I was thinking. I found a lot of moves that felt like solid 10 to me.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : East Colfax : Wild Bore (5.7)
By: Crag Dweller When: Jun 29, 2012

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Comments: A fun cruiser route.

Be aware when pulling through the short broken section of rock. There's a big one in there that looks fairly solid until you step on it. And, if you sent that down on your belayer, it would be bad.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : East Colfax : Steve's Wild Turkey Day (5.7)
By: Crag Dweller When: Jun 29, 2012

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Comments: Luke ain't kidding. He really did invest some hardware in this route. I think 4' is the biggest fall you could possibly take on this thing. And, that's if you blow a clip with a handful of slack.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Mirthmobile (5.10a)
By: Crag Dweller When: Jun 29, 2012

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Comments: I agree w/Caleb's comments. This may not be the best climb for someone who is just breaking into the 10 range. The moves for the first clip are where the route is a 10, and a fall before clipping would be extremely nasty.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Halle-Bop (5.10c)
By: Crag Dweller When: Jun 29, 2012

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Comments: Fun, challenging climb. Be mindful of taking a fall when getting to the 3rd bolt. Too much slack and you may smack your feet pretty hard on the left trending rail that starts the climb. Not quite too much slack and the edge of the overhanging section above the rail may take some skin off your shin, as it did mine.

This one is a scenario where a hard catch may be the best option.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : Zingando (5.5)
By: Crag Dweller When: Jun 17, 2012

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Comments: FWIW, I didn't think the starting moves were all that dirty. The start actually may've been my favorite part of the pitch. After that, the pitch is...eh. I suppose pulling the roof might be a little exciting for someone who is just beginning to get into trad. All in all, it was just ok.

The second pitch, though, was a fun cruiser crack. And, like the description says, that thing would easily eat an entire rack of pro.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Sea Cliffs of North Quarry : Moon Scape (5.10b/c)
By: Crag Dweller When: Jan 30, 2012

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Comments: This route is a choss pile. The grade may be 10b/c if you use all of the holds. But, if you avoid the holds that are likely to come off in your hands or break under your feet, you've eliminated most of the holds and the grade is something much stiffer. I've never pulled off so much rock on one climb.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Gotham City (5.10a)
By: Crag Dweller When: May 9, 2011

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Comments: I thought this was a really fun warm up. The crux is distinct and leads into casual, fun climbing.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Tinsel Town aka BR 2? (5.9)
By: Crag Dweller When: May 9, 2011

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Comments: You can see why someone would want to bolt this when looking up at. It just looks fun. The movement is great. The rock is pretty chossy, though. And, because the bolting spreads out as you go up (very nicely, btw), the questionable rock adds a bit of spice factor.

That pillar is cool and a little bit eerie. I hope I'm not around when it comes down...and, it's hard to imagine it will be there for a long time.

If this climb were on solid rock, it would be 4 stars.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Gambit (5.8)
By: Crag Dweller When: Apr 10, 2011

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Comments: An absolutely spectacular route. My favorite .8 in Eldo thus far. We did it in 4 pitches. I don't know which I'd consider the crux, the 2nd or the 3rd. But, I enjoyed and was challenged more by leading the 3rd than the following the 2nd. In any case, every pitch was great fun even with a bit of loose blocky stuff on the fourth.

The descent was, as described, not obvious. But, it wasn't too difficult to find. Pay attention to the prior comment about looking beyond the tree that, at first, appea... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : The Fiend (5.9)
By: Crag Dweller When: Mar 27, 2011

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Comments: This is a fun climb with a lot of variety. IMO, this is a great climb for the competent sport climber who is just getting into trad and crack climbing as it requires a bit of crack technique but offers plenty of face climbing options as well.

I left a #11 BD stopper on the climb on 3/26/11. It's about 2/3 of the way up the climb. I discovered that my nut tool was on the ground, and it was getting too late to go back down for it. So, there's bootie to be had or, if you retrieve it and you... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Martha (5.6 WI2+ M2-3)
By: Crag Dweller When: Mar 21, 2011

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Comments: I climbed this 3/19-20. The snow was in great condition, firm enough to feel solid but not so hard that my hand was bruised from plunging. The ice...not so much. There was very little of it and most of that was extremely brittle. I think I got 3 good sticks in the entire climb.

Oh, and, if there's a descent other than the east ridge, I'd do that. The east ridge is a long slog through a boulder field.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : 20th Century Man (5.10a/b)
By: Crag Dweller When: Nov 22, 2010

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Comments: This is a really fun route with good movement through a variety of holds and big holds right where you'd like them to be...with one exception...the second bolt.

I don't think the route is harder than .10a except for the sideways move required only to clip the second bolt. I'm guessing the developer was trying to keep a straight bolt line through the lower section. But, that clip can be a bit sketchy and the climb would still be a fun .10a if the bolt was just far enough right so the clip could... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden...
By: Crag Dweller When: Nov 12, 2010

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Comments: Be wary of climbing at North Table Mountain with your dog even late in the season. Mine got bit by a rattlesnake today (11/12).


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Skull Cave : Pile Driver (5.11b)
By: Crag Dweller When: Sep 24, 2010

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Comments: Beware of permadraws on this route. I climbed the route in '09, took a fall above the 3rd bolt, and realized the dogbone on that permadraw was worn out to the point of being stretched and frayed.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Analog Alcove : Chronometer (5.9+)
By: Crag Dweller When: Aug 21, 2010

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Comments: Agree that this is pretty stiff for a 9 if you follow the bolt line. Going right makes it easier, but it's not all that much fun. The anchor bolts are def too far apart.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Menses (5.10d)
By: Crag Dweller When: Mar 7, 2010

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Comments: A great route with fun movement through a variety of holds from jams to crimps to sidepulls to slopers.

W/the little ledges at the base of the route and the spacing between the 1st and 2nd bold, there is the potential to hit the deck if you came off clipping the 2nd. The crack, which runs from finger to near hand-size, would take easily take a cam in between the two bolts.


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