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Member Since: Jul 17, 2006
Last Visit: 18 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,958
Total Points: 274
Last Year: 47
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
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All (1400) | Routes (3) | Areas | Photos (40) | Comments (44) | Posts (1092) | Stars (125) | Ratings (96)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Twilight Zone : The Chaser (5.11-)
By: Crag Dweller When: Aug 31, 2012

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Comments: A really fun route. The roof was more pumpy than I anticipated and, after a little rest, the headwall continues to challenge with a steep, tricky sequence.

A couple of suggestions. First, as others have said, the lower half is really chossy, so the belayer should set up with the ability to get out of the way in case anything comes down. And, you'll save yourself some rope drag if you use long draws on the 2nd and 3rd bolts, plus you'll prevent the rope from running across the edge of the roof.... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Persistent Vegetative State (5.10b)
By: Crag Dweller When: Aug 22, 2012

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Comments: None of the moves on this route stuck out to me as 10b, but, by the end, the pump was starting to creep in.

Edit to add after getting back on this route: I must've been on a low gravity day the first time on this. I don't know what I was thinking. I found a lot of moves that felt like solid 10 to me.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : East Colfax : Wild Bore (5.7)
By: Crag Dweller When: Jun 29, 2012

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Comments: A fun cruiser route.

Be aware when pulling through the short broken section of rock. There's a big one in there that looks fairly solid until you step on it. And, if you sent that down on your belayer, it would be bad.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : East Colfax : Steve's Wild Turkey Day (5.7)
By: Crag Dweller When: Jun 29, 2012

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Comments: Luke ain't kidding. He really did invest some hardware in this route. I think 4' is the biggest fall you could possibly take on this thing. And, that's if you blow a clip with a handful of slack.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Mirthmobile (5.10a)
By: Crag Dweller When: Jun 29, 2012

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Comments: I agree w/Caleb's comments. This may not be the best climb for someone who is just breaking into the 10 range. The moves for the first clip are where the route is a 10, and a fall before clipping would be extremely nasty.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Halle-Bop (5.10c)
By: Crag Dweller When: Jun 29, 2012

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Comments: Fun, challenging climb. Be mindful of taking a fall when getting to the 3rd bolt. Too much slack and you may smack your feet pretty hard on the left trending rail that starts the climb. Not quite too much slack and the edge of the overhanging section above the rail may take some skin off your shin, as it did mine.

This one is a scenario where a hard catch may be the best option.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : Zingando (5.5)
By: Crag Dweller When: Jun 17, 2012

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Comments: FWIW, I didn't think the starting moves were all that dirty. The start actually may've been my favorite part of the pitch. After that, the pitch is...eh. I suppose pulling the roof might be a little exciting for someone who is just beginning to get into trad. All in all, it was just ok.

The second pitch, though, was a fun cruiser crack. And, like the description says, that thing would easily eat an entire rack of pro.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Sea Cliffs of North Quarry : Moon Scape (5.10b/c)
By: Crag Dweller When: Jan 30, 2012

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Comments: This route is a choss pile. The grade may be 10b/c if you use all of the holds. But, if you avoid the holds that are likely to come off in your hands or break under your feet, you've eliminated most of the holds and the grade is something much stiffer. I've never pulled off so much rock on one climb.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Gotham City (5.10a)
By: Crag Dweller When: May 9, 2011

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Comments: I thought this was a really fun warm up. The crux is distinct and leads into casual, fun climbing.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Tinsel Town aka BR 2? (5.9)
By: Crag Dweller When: May 9, 2011

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Comments: You can see why someone would want to bolt this when looking up at. It just looks fun. The movement is great. The rock is pretty chossy, though. And, because the bolting spreads out as you go up (very nicely, btw), the questionable rock adds a bit of spice factor.

That pillar is cool and a little bit eerie. I hope I'm not around when it comes down...and, it's hard to imagine it will be there for a long time.

If this climb were on solid rock, it would be 4 stars.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Gambit (5.8)
By: Crag Dweller When: Apr 10, 2011

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Comments: An absolutely spectacular route. My favorite .8 in Eldo thus far. We did it in 4 pitches. I don't know which I'd consider the crux, the 2nd or the 3rd. But, I enjoyed and was challenged more by leading the 3rd than the following the 2nd. In any case, every pitch was great fun even with a bit of loose blocky stuff on the fourth.

The descent was, as described, not obvious. But, it wasn't too difficult to find. Pay attention to the prior comment about looking beyond the tree that, at first, appea... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : The Fiend (5.9)
By: Crag Dweller When: Mar 27, 2011

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Comments: This is a fun climb with a lot of variety. IMO, this is a great climb for the competent sport climber who is just getting into trad and crack climbing as it requires a bit of crack technique but offers plenty of face climbing options as well.

I left a #11 BD stopper on the climb on 3/26/11. It's about 2/3 of the way up the climb. I discovered that my nut tool was on the ground, and it was getting too late to go back down for it. So, there's bootie to be had or, if you retrieve it and you... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Martha (5.6 WI2+ M2-3)
By: Crag Dweller When: Mar 21, 2011

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Comments: I climbed this 3/19-20. The snow was in great condition, firm enough to feel solid but not so hard that my hand was bruised from plunging. The ice...not so much. There was very little of it and most of that was extremely brittle. I think I got 3 good sticks in the entire climb.

Oh, and, if there's a descent other than the east ridge, I'd do that. The east ridge is a long slog through a boulder field.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : 20th Century Man (5.10a/b)
By: Crag Dweller When: Nov 22, 2010

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Comments: This is a really fun route with good movement through a variety of holds and big holds right where you'd like them to be...with one exception...the second bolt.

I don't think the route is harder than .10a except for the sideways move required only to clip the second bolt. I'm guessing the developer was trying to keep a straight bolt line through the lower section. But, that clip can be a bit sketchy and the climb would still be a fun .10a if the bolt was just far enough right so the clip could... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden...
By: Crag Dweller When: Nov 12, 2010

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Comments: Be wary of climbing at North Table Mountain with your dog even late in the season. Mine got bit by a rattlesnake today (11/12).


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Skull Cave : Pile Driver (5.11b)
By: Crag Dweller When: Sep 24, 2010

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Comments: Beware of permadraws on this route. I climbed the route in '09, took a fall above the 3rd bolt, and realized the dogbone on that permadraw was worn out to the point of being stretched and frayed.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Analog Alcove : Chronometer (5.9+)
By: Crag Dweller When: Aug 21, 2010

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Comments: Agree that this is pretty stiff for a 9 if you follow the bolt line. Going right makes it easier, but it's not all that much fun. The anchor bolts are def too far apart.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Menses (5.10d)
By: Crag Dweller When: Mar 7, 2010

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Comments: A great route with fun movement through a variety of holds from jams to crimps to sidepulls to slopers.

W/the little ledges at the base of the route and the spacing between the 1st and 2nd bold, there is the potential to hit the deck if you came off clipping the 2nd. The crack, which runs from finger to near hand-size, would take easily take a cam in between the two bolts.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Light Days (5.11a)
By: Crag Dweller When: Mar 7, 2010

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Comments: Really nice route with enjoyable moves. There is a chunk of rock that will likely come off in the not too distant future that people may want to be aware of.

It's the block of stone that was, IMO, the most obvious left hand for the start and, based on rubber smear, is used a lot as a foot hold in the moves past the first bolt.

It's too low to be a danger for the belayer but, if it came off as someone was pulling onto the route it could lead to a surprising deck fall that would be short but c... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Ride My See-saw (5.10a)
By: Crag Dweller When: Oct 4, 2009

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Comments: A little grungy getting to below 3rd bolt. Fun climbing from there. And, a bit run out if you didn't bring any gear to place between the 2nd and 3rd bolt.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Is It Ready Yet...Moe (5.10-)
By: Crag Dweller When: Oct 4, 2009

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Comments: Fun moves coming around the two corners.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Unfamiliar Strangers (5.9+)
By: Crag Dweller When: Oct 4, 2009

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Comments: Fun route. Crux is def getting past the 1st & 2nd bolt. Fun, easy climbing up top w/enough run out to keep you on your toes.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Law of Physics Crag : Bachar's Block : Stone Master (V11)
By: Crag Dweller When: Oct 1, 2009

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Comments: How is this named and graded if no one has sent it yet? Shouldn't that be left to the FA'er?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Mother Goose (5.10d)
By: Crag Dweller When: Sep 7, 2009

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Comments: This is a fun route. I was surprised by the strenuous work required to pull over the two roofs.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Chicken Delight (5.10c)
By: Crag Dweller When: Sep 7, 2009

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Comments: I think this route is more fun if you stay to the right of the bolt line.


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