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 ADVANCED
Me before a cold Nov day at the Gunks, 2007.


Member Since: Jan 25, 2007
Last Visit: Mar 21, 2014
Contact Coz Teplitz


Point Rank: # 2,228
Total Points: 244
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
5 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Coz Teplitz been climbing?










Contributions


All 216 | Routes 14 | Areas | Photos 15 | Page Improvments | Comments 29 | Posts 83 | Stars 70 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Mt. Lafayette
By: Coz Teplitz When: Jan 5, 2013

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Comments: "Shining Rock" is actually on the slopes of Little Haystack (2 mtns south of Lafayette on the Franconia Ridge). And it's probably too low-angle for interesting rock climbing, though this being NH, I'm sure it's been done.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Table Rock : Fresh Garbage (5.10a)
By: Coz Teplitz When: Jan 16, 2012

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Comments: I never found the direct start that hard, or even that run out. Although I haven't been down there recently, as I recall it was ~5.7 or 5.8, with a few key spots for gear, including a small tricam.


Location: MA : Lynn Woods : Golf Course Boulders : Lifeboat (V4)
By: Coz Teplitz When: Jan 10, 2012

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Comments: Which boulder is this on?


Location: MA : Lynn Woods : Golf Course Boulders : Baldy (V3+)
By: Coz Teplitz When: Jan 10, 2012

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Comments: Was out there today. There's an awkward, microwave-size block right where you start/in the drop zone that is loose and rocking around. Nearly sprained my ankle on it a few times. Before moving/adjusting it, though, I thought I'd check here. Would the the golf course folks know if I stabilized or moved that block? Is the local ethic to just deal with it? Don't want anyone to sprain an ankle, but don't want to piss anyone off.


Location: MA : Lynn Woods : Golf Course Boulders : Peace of Mind (V3)
By: Coz Teplitz When: Jan 10, 2012

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Comments: What are the starting holds here? Just on the arete, or do you reach over to the jug out right (think this is the start of Handyman)?


Location: MA : Lynn Woods : Golf Course Boulders : First Burn (V4+)
By: Coz Teplitz When: Jan 10, 2012

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Comments: Didn't think the sit start added any difficulty or quality to this one.


Location: MA : Milford Bouldering : Quarry Land : Tree Hugger (V3-4)
By: Coz Teplitz When: Jan 8, 2012

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Comments: A bit contrived - small wall, and it takes work not to use the ledge or the tree. Fun in you are in the area.


Location: MA : Milford Bouldering : Quarry Land : Little Devil (V2)
By: Coz Teplitz When: Jan 8, 2012

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Comments: In case you are still looking for this boulder, it is on the opposite side of the dirt road as The Roofs, up on top of a small pile of rocks (not visible from the dirt road). Kind of tall but really a one-move wonder.


Location: MA : Milford Bouldering
By: Coz Teplitz When: Jan 8, 2012

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Comments: Note on the approach: I stumbled around for about an hour yesterday before I figured out Jcomeau's directions. For other folks headed out for the first time: Once you turn left onto the new bike path, the first trail on the right does lead to Atomic. The other trail mentioned (the "main road" listed in some problem descriptions) is not the next trail on the right, but is the big dirt road with the metal gate across it. There are other, smaller trails between the two that will get you turned aro... more >>


Location: MA : Mormon Hollow : The Chimney (5.7)
By: Coz Teplitz When: Jun 5, 2011

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Comments: After entering the chimney, it is possible to chimney straight sideways into the chasm and pop out of a hole ~20 feet from the edge. This doesn't increase the difficulty at all, and is a fun adventure. You pop out right by the central staircase, so it's convenient as well!


Location: MA : Lynn Woods
By: Coz Teplitz When: Nov 20, 2010

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Comments: Thanks for sorting the boulders into areas - it will be very helpful. Also helpful would be removing references to one boulder in the directions to another (e.g., "From the Egg Boulder, turn around and ...."). I've been out to Lynn Woods three times and found only a handful of decent problems - and that includes a bunch of wandering off trail in the woods. I've seen the pictures, so I know that more problems exist. Help me!

Still, thanks for the additional organization and for posting this ... more >>


Location: NC : Ship Rock : Main Tier : Welcome to Watauga (5.11a)
By: Coz Teplitz When: Nov 11, 2010

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Comments: Although both pitches are good, I think the rating keeps folks off of P1. Do it! It's great!


Location: NC : Ship Rock : Main Tier : Fire Point (5.9+ R)
By: Coz Teplitz When: Nov 11, 2010

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Comments: Gear ain't that bad, and you get it below the crux. As mentioned, great start to KB Capers!


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Amphitheater : Good Heavens (5.5)
By: Coz Teplitz When: Nov 11, 2010

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Comments: There's a really cool variation that leads you into the heart of the cliff! Somewhere around P3 (above the roof, IIRC) head a little left toward a chimney that has a small tree growing out of it. Move into and up this chimney a short distance, then suck in your gut and dive straight back, into the cliff. (Well, don't dive - you just chimney sideways.) I've heard this called 5.8, but it's just awkward. Like most chimneys, it's secure. After a short distance (<50ft?) you'll end u... more >>


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Table Rock : Helmet Variation (5.8)
By: Coz Teplitz When: Nov 11, 2010

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Comments: As I recall, this variation was FA'd solo by Tom Howard. I always found it slopey and awkward, and apparently so did Mr. Howard, who called it "KFN" for "Kinda F-ing (G)narly". Apparently, Mr. Howard climbed this in the days before spellcheck.

NOTE - this is the story I heard in the mid-2000s from old-school OB folks. Accuracy is, of course, questionable.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Table Rock : Blood, Sweat, and Tears (5.7 PG13)
By: Coz Teplitz When: Nov 11, 2010

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Comments: Bummed to hear that tree died. It wasn't too long ago that I was rapping off the thing...

I actually think this is a quality route - fun face climbing at a moderate and consistent grade up what I remember as a crack-like feature. Worth some time if you're in the area. I have no idea if the new finish detracts from the quality of the route.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Stirrup Trouble (5.10b R)
By: Coz Teplitz When: Nov 1, 2010

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Comments: I think this route is one of the best 5.10 pitches I've done at the Gunks! As Ivan commented, 5 different cruxes, each one different than the others. The finish - unexpected crimpy out on the nose - was just awesome! In my book, the variety puts this route in the same league as Fat City, Doubleissimma, and the other super-classic 10s at the Gunks.

I would call the route PG - there a few times when you have to do moves without a piece above your head, but you're never that far from you... more >>


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Hawksbill Mtn : Middle Hawksbill : Carpe Freeum (5.11a)
By: Coz Teplitz When: Jun 17, 2009

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Comments: I think this is a great route - wonderful rock, cool moves, deliciously steep without being heinously so. However, I think it's much easier than 5.11b/c - I give it a 5.10+. Maybe it's 'cause I'm tall, but I expected to fall on this many more times than I did.

Whatever the grade, it's worth the effort.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Table Rock : Second Stanza (5.8+)
By: Coz Teplitz When: Jun 15, 2009

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Comments: I disagree that this is better than White Lightning. Pitches 1 and 3 feature awkward, often dirty climbing, the last pitch is really just the last pitch of My Route, and, as you said, the crux move is way harder than 5.8, making the route inconsistent. White Lightning, to my mind, has interesting moves all the way until you start the traverse on P2, and has rock of generally better quality.

Acknowledging that every person will be attracted to different things in routes, I'll say this: if you ... more >>


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Black Crack (5.10b PG13)
By: Coz Teplitz When: May 25, 2009

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Comments: Jerry Handren's guidebook calls this 5.10d. Webster calls it just 5.10 (I think). Now here it's 5.10a? Which one is it?

This thing looks seriously cool - and brutal! Can't wait to get on it!


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Hawksbill Mtn : Middle Hawksbill : No Free Lunch (5.10c/d)
By: Coz Teplitz When: Apr 12, 2009

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Comments: It's been a few years (2005?) but I thought the headwall was stellar, too. Don't recall placing that much gear, though - I didn't use a double rack of TCUs. Also remember the rock below the anchor having a sharp lip - watch for it if you are toproping.


Location: MA : Jenkins' Boulder
By: Coz Teplitz When: Nov 21, 2008

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Comments: I grew up about 5 miles from this place and used to bike out there all the time. Back then we called it Soap Rock. If you stay around long enough to ferret them all out, I think there are perhaps 15 problems to be had here. The hardest I ever got on was maybe V5, although perhaps something harder exists. I agree that the traverse is the best thing here.

Also, there used to be 2 old pins in the cracks at the top, evidence that folks have been climbing here for a long time. At the time, whe... more >>


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Table Rock : Slippin' into Darkness (5.9)
By: Coz Teplitz When: Oct 25, 2008

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Comments: I find Slippin' to be quite easy for the grade - I think it's more like 5.8. Still, good fun for a few moves.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Table Rock : Warm Up Route (5.11a)
By: Coz Teplitz When: Oct 25, 2008

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Comments: Where does this route go in relation to the arete between the gully and the steep white face to the left? An old guidebook shows a 5.8 that climbs the arete - is this route to the left or right of that arete?

Right on for finding new lines on TR! There are more to be found, I'm sure...


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Table Rock : Helmet Buttress (5.6)
By: Coz Teplitz When: Oct 25, 2008

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Comments: I actually think this is a decent route - worth a few stars at least. I like P1 quite a bit, and the moves up to and just past the pin on P2 I find quite enjoyable.

Two warnings: (1) the pin on P2 may or may not be in place. A smaller cam (maybe tips-size) easily backs up the pin, so you can get the gear if it's not. (2) The traverse on P1 is a little runout; people have been known to slip off and then fall back into the corner - ouch. There are a few ways of doing this traverse... more >>


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