Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Count Chockula


Member Since: Aug 4, 2006
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact Count Chockula


Point Rank: # 10,054
Total Points: 22
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
0 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Count Chockula been climbing?










Contributions


All 368 | Routes | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 17 | Posts 164 | Stars 179 | Ratings 7
Page 1 of 15.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Count Chockula

Count Chockula

Count Chockula : The Count's Photos

Jun 18, 2007

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Heavy Weather (5.9)
By: Count Chockula When: Jul 15, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: This route is well protected and is a great outing. Well worth it if Lower Peanuts is crowded. It also holds shade for most of the morning, so it's a good option on hot summer days. I thought the P1 crux was harder than the P2 crux, personally...very thin tips, quite balancy, and there's very little for feet, but it's short. I got a #4 and #5 BD micro stopper in at the P1 crux and they are bomber. We did it comfortably in 3 pitches linking 3-4.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Pretty Woman (5.10a)
By: Count Chockula When: Aug 26, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Not sure where all the sketchy rock is...seemed pretty solid to me, even around the roof. Maybe I was just so focused on the biz I didn't notice (or grab) the "chossy" holds.

For me, the crux is the move out left and then slightly up to make the clip above the roof. I cranked it cleanly on my onsight attempt not two weeks ago, but yesterday I took a 20+ footer after moving too far left. Spent too much time milking the "rest" under the roof move. I couldn't quite get set up to make the clip abov... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Turkey Jerky (5.10)
By: Count Chockula When: Aug 19, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Love the start of this route. I climbed up the leaning crack left of the clips at the crux, and it is quite balancy through there making it tough to clip the bolt. Took me a couple minutes to find a good stance. I ended up laying back off my left foot and left hand on a good sidepull while flagging my right foot on the face to make the clip. This felt much more secure than using the holds above in the flaring crack. After that, it was cruiser climbing to the anchors on jugs.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Beasto (5.10-)
By: Count Chockula When: Aug 19, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Fun climb, but soft even for 5.10-, maybe even a little contrived at the crux. The moves around/onto the arete seemed .9 at most. Not sure why the crux clip was on the face left of the arete proper. Seems like it should have been on the right side face of the arete in line with the other clips on the route. This would alleviate the need to use a longer draw and probably make the moves up the arete more 5.10ish. Then again, maybe I just did it wrong. I got suckered into using a couple chalked hol... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Dandi-Line (5.7)
By: Count Chockula When: Oct 11, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: I thought this was a fun pitch with pretty solid rock and abundant gear possibilities. Thought-provoking crux. Once through the crux, the climbing eases considerably (which is unfortunate). Sure, the small ledge above the crux does have some loose scree, but that's Eldo. Just be careful when pulling your rope from the anchors...our rope brought down several small scree missles. It is possible to flip your rope over to the Sister Morphine side of the corner before pulling to minimize the chance o... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Calypso (5.6)
By: Count Chockula When: Oct 4, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: I've led the direct start a couple times without incident, but like Paul, I unexpectedly popped off the spicy direct start last year. Messed my right foot up pretty good but didn't break anything. Luckily, I landed squarely on the boulder at the base of the climb and ended up with just a bad heel contusion and some deep arm abrasions. A few inches in either direction and there would have been bones crunching. It happened so fast my belayer was helpless to do anything to break my fall. From now o... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : West Crack (aka Star Wars) (5.8)
By: Count Chockula When: Oct 4, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Finally got a chance to lead this yesterday after having followed it about 3 years ago. Pretty steep and sustained jams, but there are workable stances every body length or so, as mentioned. I had a hard time getting solid jams at the crux before the exit right and ended up pumping out trying to get set my hands in the crack. After a quick shake out, I just laybacked through the crux as well. The v-slot up high is sweet.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Dihedral (5.7)
By: Count Chockula When: Oct 4, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Following the angling crux flake left doesn't even come close to .9. If we're looking to split hairs, I'd say .7+. The laybacks are bomber and the feet are all there. Fun pitch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Nightcap (5.9)
By: Count Chockula When: Sep 12, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: I also had some trouble with the crux move in the corner. I may have plugged up the key finger lock for the right hand with a #0.5, so I French-freed the move to get my feet high enough to snag a good left hand finger lock and I was out of the corner.

I think I made the move harder than it needed to be, though.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Gambit (5.8)
By: Count Chockula When: Aug 30, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: The last time I climbed Gambit was over 3 years ago, and I had forgotten how loose the last pitch really is...sketchy blocks everywhere. Place gear wisely and climb softly. The position is sensational, though.

If you like to sew things up (as I do), bringing the #4 will be worth it. You really don't need it for the awkward start to the 3rd pitch...just clip the pin and layback that mutha, but there are numerous places to plug the #4 once established in the crack on the steep face ab... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Ghetto Cruiser (5.7)
By: Count Chockula When: Jun 28, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Fun, fun, fun! One of my new favorites at the grade in Eldo. Good gear and a few tricky moves kept me thinking all the way. The short runout at the bulge where the crack ends briefly gave me some pause, but it's all there once you get moving. The steep roof was a hoot and is protected well by a #3 BD.

As others have stated, rapping off seems more of a cluster than it's worth IMO. Just use the obvious walkoff.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : V3 (5.8)
By: Count Chockula When: Jun 28, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: I followed this pitch so maybe my perception is a bit skewed, but I thought Ghetto Cruiser was noticeably harder. I didn't find V3 to be very sustained either. I found that jamming the crack was pretty secure, so I didn't stem too much at all. Would like to go back and see what it's like on lead.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Gonzo (5.8)
By: Count Chockula When: Jun 28, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed this yesterday and thought the P2 off-hands/fist crack was harder than anything on P1, V3, or Ghetto Cruiser. 5.7? Hmmm...maybe for taller folks or those with big hands. I was burying my arms into that crack and never felt super secure with the jams. I thought the move to the reasonable stance just over halfway up the crack was pretty burly for 5.7. If you like to sew things up like I do, three #3s wouldn't hurt.

P1 was excellent. Great finger crack with solid yet committing layba... more >>


Location: CO : Ticket Information for Kor'...
By: Count Chockula When: Sep 16, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Indeed...glad I checked the AAC website early this morning. Get 'em...while they last!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Upper East Face : Kiener's Route (5.3 Easy Snow)
By: Count Chockula When: Jul 21, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed Kiener's on July 19. Lamb's Slide was in glorious condition which made the ascent go very quickly. We were in the couloir by 6:30am. We did not need to rope up as the snow was not very steep at all...maybe 40 at most. We were the only party on route the entire day and it was bluebird. The traverse of Broadway is currently snow-free. Routefinding from the base of the Notch Couloir is certainly challenging. My partner and I each had our challenges trying to stay on easily climbable, yet f... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Honky Jam Ass Crack (5.7)
By: Count Chockula When: Jul 16, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Well protected and sustained at the grade. Instead of climbing the offwidth section of crack straight up, I downclimbed and stepped across into the hand jam/lieback crack on LHJ to finish the pitch. I just couldn't get my hands deep enough for solid jams and I was pumped. Found this one section harder than any move on LHJ. Guess I need to work on my offwidth skills.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Ragger Bagger (5.8+)
By: Count Chockula When: Jul 16, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Sweet route all the way. Be aware that there is a very loose, thin flake on the right once you get into the offwidth. You can see them in this photo, just above and left of the climber's head. I felt it flex and crack when I crimped on it to pull through the crux.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Climbing harder grades on the front range coTrad ClimbingCount ChockulaMar 27, 2014
re: Utah & Marijuana prosecution ColoradoCount ChockulaJan 5, 2014
re: Best Underwear for Climbing?Community ForumCount ChockulaSep 27, 2013
re: Occasional RRG/New England partners...Eastern and Southern StatesCount ChockulaJul 11, 2013
Occasional RRG/New England partners...Eastern and Southern StatesCount ChockulaJul 7, 2013
re: Draws Stolen after left due to thunderstorm July 3rd, Easter RockCommunity ForumCount ChockulaJul 5, 2013
re: RMNP Climbing TripColoradoCount ChockulaJul 2, 2013
Page 1 of 15.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>