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Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Zig Zag Boulder : ... : Photo
By: Cory When: Mar 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice Light!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Tumbling Rainbow Formation : Fisticuffs (5.10b) : Photo
By: Cory When: Mar 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is so much harder than it looks from below!!!
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Location: ID : Table Rock : The Little Quarry : Photo
By: Cory When: Mar 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes
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Location: ID : Black Cliffs : Face Canyon : In Your Face (5.11a/b) : Photo
By: Cory When: Jan 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm going for a jug (you can kind of see it in the shadow). The things that made it hard for me were that by this point on the route I was pumped, the sloper that I'm on wasn't that good, and the feet here suck (my right foot must have popped 3 or 4 times before I finally got the move my first time on the route, and my left foot is basically pasted on nothing).
It's a cool route. Before you get to this part there is a fairly long (by Black Cliffs standards) and sustained technical dihedral,... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Sacherer Cracker (5.10a) : Photo
By: Cory When: Jan 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice shot! I got spanked at the top of this climb (right about where he's at in the photo)! I need to get back on it and try again . . .
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Location: General Climbing : Best Dog Photo ? : Post : Photo
By: Cory When: Jan 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I didn't know Jack Russels did that . . . :P
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Location: General Climbing : Backcountry skiers with dog... : Post : Photo
By: Cory When: Dec 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Happy Pups!
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Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Astro Elephant (5.10-) : Photo
By: Cory When: Oct 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good beta. Figuring out the correct start to this pitch seemed like the trickiest bit of route finding on the climb.
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Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Mountaineer's Route (5.9)
By: Cory When: Oct 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climbing, and for "the worst rock on the Perch", the rock is still pretty darn excellent. The first two pitches are sort of ho-hum, but the rest of the route is all 4 star. Next time I'll try the alternate start.
We were able to link pitches 3 & 4, and 6 & 7 using a 70m rope. We could have linked 1 & 2 also, but the rope drag would have been heinous. If linking 3 and 4, be careful to either not protect, or protect and backclean under the roof, unless you like rope drag. I clipped the... more >>
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Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch
By: Cory When: Aug 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The road to Finger of Fate was a little rough, but not that bad. My Subaru didn't have any problems. Idaho, A Climber's Guide by Tom Lopez has some beta in it.
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Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : Finger of Fate : Open Book (5.8)
By: Cory When: Jun 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I should add that the description above is pretty good. One thing to note is that the lengths of the last two pitches are much shorter than noted. We easily linked them with one 60m rope and had plenty of rope to spare. This made for a SUPER pitch that started with a splitter hand crack that still has me smiling the next day, then a "no pro" 5.5 slab with lots of exposure, the cool tunnel-through, and finally the exposed and scary "you better not fall here" summit block boulder problem that w... more >>
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Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : Finger of Fate : Open Book (5.8) : Photo
By: Cory When: Jun 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice! That's one spicy boulder problem, for both leader and follower!
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Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : Finger of Fate : Open Book (5.8)
By: Cory When: Jun 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stellar rock, splitter cracks, and a spicy boulder problem right at the end, it doesn't get much better than this!
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Location: ID : Table Rock : Bob's Nose : Bob Down Under (V1)
By: Cory When: Mar 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I haven't successfully re-climbed it so I'm not sure. Maybe V2? I tried it a couple times and the moves under the roof felt much harder . . .
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Location: ID : Garden creek gap
By: Cory When: Mar 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This place is awesome! No approach, and fun climbing! I'll be back for sure!
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Location: ID : Table Rock : Bob's Nose : Bob Down Under (V1)
By: Cory When: Dec 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was there today and the jug that used to be under the roof is now laying on the ground next to the problem . . . . :( It's now much harder . . .
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Location: ID : Black Cliffs : Short Cliffs : Bologna Pony (5.11a)
By: Cory When: Nov 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: While no individual moves are harder than 5.10 on this, it is sustained, pumpy, and fun the whole way. Make sure to save some gas for the spectacular finish!
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Caltech Alpine Club present...
By: Cory When: Oct 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, bummed I don't live in LA anymore or I'd be there. Looks awesome! Ever consider doing a show in Boise? :)
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Regular Northwest Face of H... (5.12a/b)
By: Cory When: Oct 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: 10/8/11: The spring is gushing after the recent snowfall. The upper portion of the slabs approach was getting bombed with melon sized chunks of ice from the top of Half Dome once the tempurature warmed up. Snow on the shoulder was knee deep in places.
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Location: ID : Black Cliffs : Mid Cliffs : Sweat Engine (5.10c)
By: Cory When: Sep 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first 2/3 of the climb is slightly less than vertical with spaced but very positive edges, making for some very fun climbing! Like many of the routes out here the crux is at the top and a bit beta intensive . . .
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Location: ID : McCall Area : Slick Rock : Memorial Route (5.8+)
By: Cory When: Aug 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: K.C.: I agree about the river crossing not being obvious. It took us awhile to find our way to it the first time we went to SR. There are actually two spots with logs to cross on, one involves less bushwhacking than the other.
Regarding the descent, I think you were on route. It's steep and loose. The 4th class chimney downclimb actually isn't as bad as it looks from above, and in my opinion is the least sketchy part of the descent. There are numerous loose rocks just waiting to be dislo... more >>
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Location: ID : Table Rock : Bob's Nose : Bob's Nose (V0)
By: Cory When: Aug 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A nicer alternative to reaching up to the jugs is to do a sit start at the crack on the right. Traverse the lip on good jugs to the traditional start. This probably makes it V0+ or V1.
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Location: ID : Black Cliffs : East Car Body Canyon : Eyeless in Gaza (5.7)
By: Cory When: Aug 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is a great moderate climb! Sustained for the grade with fun moves that will keep you entertained all the way to the top. Great pro too.
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Location: ID : McCall Area : Slick Rock : Regular Route (5.6)
By: Cory When: Aug 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun route with a bit more variety than the other routes on the wall. Every pitch was great, and (also unlike the other routes on the wall) it is stout for the grade.
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Location: ID : McCall Area : Slick Rock : Slippery Slope (5.10+)
By: Cory When: Aug 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route. In particular, pitches 5, 6, &7 featured fun moves on great rock! I made an effort to follow the bolt line and not deviate to the easy jugs and cracks to the side, and I still think this was no harder than 10a.
The description for the start of this route may be a little off. It's only about 40 feet left of the start for the regular route, not a couple hundred.
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