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Location: WI : Grandad's Bluff : Bling Bling Wall : Bukaki (5.9)
By: Corey Morris When: Apr 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ya know, I can remember how many times people have chuckled at me and Freddy wearing a blow tube and hand broom whilst climbing...there is a reason for that...new climbs need travel...which in turn cleans the climb...I'm pretty sure that there is no death blocks on this route..as I was one that helped cleaned this and make it as it is...would anyone care to borrow my cleaning apparatus (I'll send it to you)? Would you care to make an effort to make this better? I am not claiming that this is a 5... more >>
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Cleopatra's Needle : Photo
By: Corey Morris When: Dec 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Every breath you take is closer to your death...so just remember that when you breathe....
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Location: WI : Grandad's Bluff : Bling Bling Wall : Bukaki (5.9)
By: Corey Morris When: Dec 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ok Skyler, I'll change the grade.
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Location: WI : Grandad's Bluff : Adidas Wall : Trophy Husbands (5.10c)
By: Corey Morris When: Dec 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I and others would agree with you Jimmy that this climb is 11a. Unfortunately the author of this route is like 6'2" and climbs 5.13 so everything under his ultimate potential is "easy" climbing which doesn't help us mere mortals...and it is still a great route and I thank you Travis for this...
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Location: WI : Grandad's Bluff
By: Corey Morris When: Apr 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jay, there is usually someone up there who will lead the route to get your rope hung...just simply ask...
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Location: WI : Grandad's Bluff
By: Corey Morris When: Apr 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The majority of the routes are bolted with the exception of George's Point (see George's)...please do not approach the bolted climbs from above to set top ropes because you may get a ticket by the police and the grounds have been seeded to prevent erosion. Someone will have to lead it and then one can top rope through the chains that have biners attached...Please do not take the biners and replace a biner if heavily worn...
To answer Jay's question; Yes, nearly all routes on Grandads... more >>
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Location: WI : Grandad's Bluff : Adidas Wall : Photo
By: Corey Morris When: Mar 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Your good to go...
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Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Y-Crack Wall : Little Rebel Crack AKA Ezra... (5.7+) : Photo
By: Corey Morris When: Feb 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Truly, that first piece is junk....and was scared shitless pulling that next move after the worthless cam placement...tail between legs....
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Location: WI : Black River Falls : The Man-eater Boulder : Left Corner Problem (V4) : Photo
By: Corey Morris When: Jan 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good call Burt...
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Chopping Block : Chopping Block : Baba Cool (5.9+)
By: Corey Morris When: Dec 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The very best sport climb I've been on for it's grade...
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Location: WI : Grandad's Bluff : The Point
By: Corey Morris When: Dec 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm going to Kuwait soon, but truly hope these routes have been getting some travel and will get better with time. :) And will be back at some point to finish what Fred and I have started....
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Location: WI : Grandad's Bluff
By: Corey Morris When: Dec 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbing on the faces one can see from town is strictly illegal.
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Location: TX
By: Corey Morris When: Aug 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Moving to Ft. Hood soon...looking for partners...I'm 39 and have own gear...be great to run into some other climbers.
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Location: IL : Jackson Falls : The Beaver Wall : Flingin Hog (5.10c)
By: Corey Morris When: Nov 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: IMHO, 10c is right on...maybe taller people might have a tough time on this route...not 5.11. Way easier than wild at heart and into the sun/fragile egos....
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Location: WI : Westby Bouldering : Cereal Bowls (V2)
By: Corey Morris When: Oct 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes Ross, if you skip the left crimp it increases the grade for sure.
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Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Battle Axe Tower : East of East St. Louis (5.13c)
By: Corey Morris When: Oct 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: 6 bolts plus anchors...
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Location: WI : Grandad's Bluff : The Point
By: Corey Morris When: Sep 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thx Remo...I'll try to do some photo shop with an overall view of this ampitheatre when the trees lose their leaves...
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Hawk's Nest : Happy Hunting Grounds (5.11a R)
By: Corey Morris When: Sep 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: By far the worst route description I have ever seen on MP...
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Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Above Anthrax : Ponyboy (5.12a)
By: Corey Morris When: Aug 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crazy hard crimp fest straight up the face sounds about right...another Ralph classic...that dude is 6'4" with a positive ape index so your probably looking at 5.12 with 5.13 clips...
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Khayyam Spire : God's Own Drunk (5.8+)
By: Corey Morris When: Aug 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ya...the first 15 ft. seemed I had to hump the rock with no pro...very ackward...IMHO not 5.10 but maybe all of 5.9 on the starting moves which then eases up...great climb.
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Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Above Anthrax : Ponyboy (5.12a)
By: Corey Morris When: Aug 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Probably "quite dirty" and hard to clip bolts because people are not following the "intended line" on this 30 ft. block.
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Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Air Spire : Phallus in Wonderland (5.6)
By: Corey Morris When: Jul 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: We are not the ones who originally equiped these routes with anchors...I agree that leaving webbing is not a good system and the only time I have done this is in the Needles. The old system on top had the lower hanger with a screw link and the upper had tubular webbing with a screw link equalized with the lower...Even if its old and crappy, felt better having both to rap instead of one even in the condition that it was but thats just me. It seems remiss to cut it and take the screwlink and just ... more >>
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Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Air Spire : Phallus in Wonderland (5.6)
By: Corey Morris When: Jul 16, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes-sir...Nick, if you feel that the beta I give on any of these routes I've added are vague or mis-leading...IM me...Freddy and I put chain, shackle, and screw link equalized on the top of the second pitch of this climb on our second outing this last spring. Upon climbing it on the first outing...we found the that the sling that used to be up there was cut and left there...this really sucked to rap off of one bolt, so we added chain...wanted to leave biners up there but decided not to as they m... more >>
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Location: WI : Grandad's Bluff : Adidas Wall : A.D.I.D.A.S. (5.8)
By: Corey Morris When: Jul 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA Aaron Stetzer
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Photo
By: Corey Morris When: Jun 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool cloud cover on the Cathederal Spires with the Bartizan on the left. Great pic!
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