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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Freeblast (5.11)
By: Colin Simon When: Jun 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe pitch 5 absolutely warrants an R rating. You would take a wonderful cheesegrater.
Offset cams work best, but there is still 5.10 above questionable gear.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Hallett Peak - mixed/ice : Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5 (M5)
By: Colin Simon When: May 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Possibly my favorite mixed route in RMNP - likely because we had excellent conditions. Styrofoam snice between cruxes, with enough ice in the steep bits to make it a true rock/ice mixture.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Solitary Confinement (5.11)
By: Colin Simon When: Apr 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mother of God.
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Location: International : Europe : France : Vallee Blanche (White Valle... : Aiguille du Midi : Rebuffat (Southeast Face) (5.10a)
By: Colin Simon When: Mar 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Daryl, just saw your post. Yeah, I'll draw a line.
Yes, MP needs a lot more work.
I've found that the best resources for Cham are ukclimbing.net and summitpost.org
As for guidebooks, look for 100 Finest Climbs of Mt Blanc Range by Gaston Rebuffat.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : East Buttress (5.10b)
By: Colin Simon When: Feb 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think 5.9+ is a pretty accurate grade for most of this route. Given all the other gnarly 5.9's in the valley, this one is no different.
The .10b is a couple of techy moves at the start of pitch 2 -- well protected and short. Once you're past those, it's just burly 5.9.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Rick Krispie Treat (5.12)
By: Colin Simon When: Dec 13, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fixed!
Left as solid 5.12, I figure that's the same and we can let people rate it and settle on something.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Everlasting Gobstopper (5.10d)
By: Colin Simon When: Dec 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was the best route at Sweet Rock.
Fun, techy start into a rest, then a sustained and pumpy finish. Full value for a sport climb, definitely felt challenging for 5.10. 10d sounds about right to me.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Chapel Wall : Cosmic Debris (5.13)
By: Colin Simon When: Nov 28, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is it feasible to set up a toprope on this sucker?
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Royal Arches (5.10a/b)
By: Colin Simon When: Oct 27, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't let the 5.9 or 5.10a rating fool you.
If you grab the pendulum rope (FUN!) the whole thing goes at 5.7 or less.
Perfect for beginners looking for an adventure!
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Location: NM : New Mexico Navajolands : Ship Rock : Photo
By: Colin Simon When: Oct 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: LOVE this caption.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Regular Northwest Face of H... (5.12a/b) : Photo
By: Colin Simon When: Oct 11, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crawl crawl crawl!
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Discovery Wall : Stupendous Man (5.10a)
By: Colin Simon When: Oct 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty heady! I'd suggest the leader wear a helmet.
SWEET belay ledge up top. Absolutely perfect. I have honestly never found a cooler little belay ledge.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : West Side : The Balconies : Lava Falls (5.9 R)
By: Colin Simon When: Oct 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was my first lead ever, in April 2008.
I was terrified. I had done a bunch of gym climbing but only toproped outside about 5 times.
This route still feels special, and defined me as a climber.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Green Mountain Pinnacle : Transgression (5.12a/b)
By: Colin Simon When: Sep 29, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The finish is wild and orgasmic!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Salathe Wall (5.9 C2)
By: Colin Simon When: Sep 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Snowhazed, I think I remember supertopo calling it 5.11 or 5.9 AND A0. So you can do it all free at 5.11 or you can aid it and only have to pull 5.9.
Where did the "R" in "5.9 C2 R" come from? Just the hollow flake?
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Regular Northwest Face of H... (5.12a/b)
By: Colin Simon When: Jun 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Go with singles for camalots 1, 2, and 3. I'd go light on the nuts as well (nothing smaller than medium nuts, like a #9 BD). Heavier on the quickdraws and alpine draws. Also a camhook was nice if you're aiding.
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Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Mt. Shasta : Casaval Ridge (4th Mod. Snow)
By: Colin Simon When: Mar 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thinking about running up this route as a more fun alternative to avalanche gulch.
How hard is routefinding? Both gaining the ridge, and the ridgeline before misery hill?
How much rock were you climbing versus snow? When do you think conditions will be best?
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Zodiac (C3+)
By: Colin Simon When: Feb 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Incredible, steep, and humbling. Five stars.
I tip my hat to you, Mr. Porter.
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Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Mt. Shasta : Avalanche Gulch (Mod. Snow)
By: Colin Simon When: Jan 27, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I know it's a straightforward route, but could you put up an actual description please?
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Poker Face (5.10b)
By: Colin Simon When: Jan 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Alexey, I'm pretty sure it's 17 bolts now, but I heard it used to be 7. Definitely not spicy anymore.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Elephant Man (5.10-)
By: Colin Simon When: Nov 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was a great route -- just far more varied and "weird" like a granite crack.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Escape Artist (5.9+) : Photo
By: Colin Simon When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Splitter, solid rock, technical, pumpy, overhung... awesome crack.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Outer Limits (5.10c)
By: Colin Simon When: Aug 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb makes my balls drop!
AWESOME!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Beverly's Tower (5.10a)
By: Colin Simon When: Aug 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've heard that the fatal fall on this route was from a leader who didn't have any pro yet, and the belayer didn't make an anchor on the belay ledge, so they both took a 30 foot plunge onto jagged boulders.
So -- set up an anchor on the ledge! It takes a couple minutes, but it's worth it.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli...
By: Colin Simon When: May 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hah, I learned to climb at Castle and also moved to Boulder. And yeah, it's way, way better here.
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