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Getting ready to top out....


Member Since: Sep 10, 2007
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 668
Total Points: 960
Last Year: 124
Last 30 Days: 0
8 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Colin R been climbing?










Contributions


All 521 | Routes 39 | Areas 6 | Photos 59 | Page Improvements | Comments 185 | Posts 28 | Stars 121 | Ratings 83
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : ... : Malaria (V4)
By: Colin R When: Nov 14, 2014

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Comments: Switching this to V4 and adding "Malaria Low" as V5


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : ... : Trench Warfare (V5)
By: Colin R When: Nov 14, 2014

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Comments: Found it easier to match the crimp using the heel hook and bust far right almost like a drive-by. Then you hit the lower part of the rail to the right of the jug. I really liked this line - nice pure crimp style.


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : The Tramway : Trailside Boulders : Mandala of Tram : ... : Photo
By: Colin R When: Nov 8, 2014

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Comments: This photo makes me uncomfortable....Just sayin'.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Quebec : Outaouais : ... : Anti-Gravity (5.12c)
By: Colin R When: Oct 26, 2014

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Comments: This is THE primo line for the grade in Gatineau Park. Probably the best 5.12 in the area.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Quebec : Outaouais : ... : Alcatraz (5.12a/b)
By: Colin R When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: Phil Gingras and I both had a try at this and couldn't make it past the final roof. I think our conclusion is that either a hold broke or the route is way harder than listed. Coming out of the roof from the face climbing section seems to involve some voodoo climbing and virtually no holds...


Location: International : North America : Canada : Quebec : Outaouais : ... : Good Vibrations (5.12a)
By: Colin R When: Jul 24, 2014

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Comments: Closer to 12b in difficulty imo. SUPER technical so you can't just power your way through it. Also the second bolt should be placed lower, its pretty sketchy to clip and you can't clip from the rail unless you place an extension draw there. I recommend a long stick clip - dude from VR broke his ankle trying to clip it.


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Top of the Notch Boulders : Wheaties Boulder : The Sadomasochist (V7+)
By: Colin R When: Jul 19, 2014

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Comments: How recently and what hold? I sent it last summer and it felt like V7+ or V7/8. It really depends on the hold to deserve an upgrade to V8 but I am open to it....


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Top of the Notch Boulders : Wheaties Boulder : The Sadomasochist (V7+)
By: Colin R When: Jun 10, 2014

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Comments: I got some feedback on this being on the harder side of V7 (7+) which I concur with, hence the slight upgrade.


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : The Guiness Traverse Boulde... : The Dirty Job (V7-8)
By: Colin R When: Jun 7, 2014

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Comments: Here's a great video of a toe-hook problem near my neck of the woods. They took a V7+ problem and made it V5 if you're short enough to do what the woman does in the video. Looks all smooth but its also clear she's using the ground to throw her feet up - if that's what people are doing on the Dirty Job then definitely its NOT the same problem because its cheating. Besides, you'll never catch me trying that stuff on a boulder problem so I am probably never going to do that problem that way. Double... more >>


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : The Guiness Traverse Boulde... : The Dirty Job (V7-8)
By: Colin R When: Jun 7, 2014

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Comments: Up to you man - like I said there's no "wrong" way to climb anything. But throwing the toes up high and right to toe-hook the lip really is just a different problem, I don't believe my hands even wind up going that way anyways when I sent it. In terms of the "its too easy to cheat" comment, well there was definitely no cheating on the FA - Bill probably still has the video of it somewhere.

It's meant to be a power problem and the first move IS the move, the rest is a campus to the top.

Howeve... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : Quebec : Laurentians : ... : Fais-moi mal Johnny (V6 R)
By: Colin R When: Jun 6, 2014

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Comments: I changed the danger grade from PG-13 to R. I probably should have done this earlier. The reason being I just heard about two people who fell on the upper moves where there is a shit landing and really messed themselves up - one apparently broke their back. Yikes! I recommend working those upper moves in isolation first to get it dialed (DONT FALL) then try the complete line.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : ... : Malaria (V4)
By: Colin R When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the info. Yeah I didn't catch that description in the guidebook but rather did the low start. It was one of those keep-your-butt-off-the-ground moves that would probably be easier if the ground wasn't there.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : ... : Malaria (V4)
By: Colin R When: Jun 1, 2014

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Comments: I downrated it to V4/5 but I am not going any lower. I think its silly to say this is anything other than a full grade harder than Bullfighter which is currently V3/4..


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : ... : The Bullfighter's Friend (V3-4)
By: Colin R When: Jun 1, 2014

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Comments: I think the left hand variation is actually harder than the right. I would agree with the original guidebook that the left variation is V4 and the right perhaps V4-.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : ... : Ken's Super Slab (V5)
By: Colin R When: Jun 1, 2014

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Comments: This thing is just nasty, thin and temperature dependent. I actually stuck the lip today and would have topped if it weren't for what happened next. As I started to pull over the lip I noticed it was quite slopey so I tried to top it beached whale style but there were pine needles, dirt and leaves everywhere so I started to slide to my right eventually going past my pads and then falling off completely - terrifying but the fall wound up being safe even with missing the pads since I fell into a p... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Smooth Shrimp (V5-6)
By: Colin R When: May 28, 2014

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Comments: This problem is a long, low-to-the-ground traverse that's probably harder for taller people. The crux is particularly crunchy and I have to do a deadpoint to the side pull with my left foot down low instead of the heel hook. Felt standard for V6 but it could see it being easier for shorter folks....


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Go Granny Go (V5)
By: Colin R When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: Benchmark V5 for the area imo. Very nice line....


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Iron Man Traverse (V4)
By: Colin R When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: Dave,

I have never heard anyone besides you say The Buttermilks are softer than J-Tree. JBMFP (V5) at J-Tree feels easier than Iron Man. White Rasta (V3) is only hyped because its highball. Likewise Flight attendent (V4 or V7 sit), The Turtle (V7), Caveman (V6), etc., all felt easier than Iron Man imho...


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : ... : Malaria (V4)
By: Colin R When: Apr 5, 2014

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Comments: Also, for what it's worth the climbers I was with that day who all sent Malaria were Jeff and Ryan K. from Coyote's as well as JM from Altitude and myself. If you are going to keep this as V4 you need to downrate a bunch of other stuff too like Bullfighter. The consensus among all of us was that it is underrated at V4. Again, you're welcome to your opinion but I don't generally uprate things unless its really warranted.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : ... : Malaria (V4)
By: Colin R When: Apr 3, 2014

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Comments: Just have a look "The Bullfighter's Friend" which is a nearby problem rated V4:

www.mountainproject.com/v/108601757

Malaria is obviously steeper, has a harder start, uses crappier holds and has a more awkward topout = V5...

But you're free to make up your own mind.

Really nice problem regardless.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Orient Bay (Ice) : ... : Photo
By: Colin R When: Mar 19, 2014

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Comments: Holy crap it is looking good right now! Looks even better than it did in February...


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond... : Ice Slot (WI4-)
By: Colin R When: Mar 6, 2014

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Comments: Mike your story doesn't surprise me at all. That central pillar always looks/feels sketchy to me and I can only imagine what -18 degree temps would do to it.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Orient Bay (Ice) : Cascade Falls (WI3-4)
By: Colin R When: Feb 25, 2014

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Comments: Winter 2014 - Ice is quite steep this year on the right hand side. Left hand side is still Grade 3. Right hand side is Grade 4 to Grade 5- depending on the line choosen. An unusual year from what I understand.....


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Orient Bay (Ice) : ... : Photo
By: Colin R When: Feb 25, 2014

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Comments: Cascade Falls is in fat and steep this year. There's a grade 5 line right down the center, even slightly past vertical in some spots if you can believe it....


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Modern Times (5.8+)
By: Colin R When: Jan 14, 2014

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Comments: Seriously nice video Dave - thanks for the share. Definitely gives the viewer the sensation of squirreliness one feels when climbing the route....


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