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Getting ready to top out....


Member Since: Sep 10, 2007
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Colin R


Point Rank: # 638
Total Points: 917
Last Year: 388
Last 30 Days: 3
8 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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Contributions


All (480) | Routes (37) | Areas (6) | Photos (58) | Comments (167) | Posts (28) | Stars (110) | Ratings (74)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : ... : Malaria (V5)
By: Colin R When: Apr 5, 2014

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Comments: Also, for what it's worth the climbers I was with that day who all sent Malaria were Jeff and Ryan K. from Coyote's as well as JM from Altitude and myself. If you are going to keep this as V4 you need to downrate a bunch of other stuff too like Bullfighter. The consensus among all of us was that it is underrated at V4. Again, you're welcome to your opinion but I don't generally uprate things unless its really warranted.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : ... : Malaria (V5)
By: Colin R When: Apr 3, 2014

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Comments: Just have a look "The Bullfighter's Friend" which is a nearby problem rated V4:

www.mountainproject.com/v/108601757

Malaria is obviously steeper, has a harder start, uses crappier holds and has a more awkward topout = V5...

But you're free to make up your own mind.

Really nice problem regardless.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Orient Bay (Ice) : ... : Photo
By: Colin R When: Mar 19, 2014

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Comments: Holy crap it is looking good right now! Looks even better than it did in February...


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond... : Ice Slot (WI4-)
By: Colin R When: Mar 6, 2014

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Comments: Mike your story doesn't surprise me at all. That central pillar always looks/feels sketchy to me and I can only imagine what -18 degree temps would do to it.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Orient Bay (Ice) : Cascade Falls (WI3-4)
By: Colin R When: Feb 25, 2014

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Comments: Winter 2014 - Ice is quite steep this year on the right hand side. Left hand side is still Grade 3. Right hand side is Grade 4 to Grade 5- depending on the line choosen. An unusual year from what I understand.....


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Orient Bay (Ice) : ... : Photo
By: Colin R When: Feb 25, 2014

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Comments: Cascade Falls is in fat and steep this year. There's a grade 5 line right down the center, even slightly past vertical in some spots if you can believe it....


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Modern Times (5.8+)
By: Colin R When: Jan 14, 2014

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Comments: Seriously nice video Dave - thanks for the share. Definitely gives the viewer the sensation of squirreliness one feels when climbing the route....


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades & Wen... : Icicle Creek : ** Bouldering in Icicle Cre... : Forestland Boulders : Arrested Development (V5)
By: Colin R When: Dec 28, 2013

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Comments: I did this thing way back in the day. Was the only line I could do that day in that area. Nice line - too bad a hold broke.....


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades & Wen... : Icicle Creek : ** Bouldering in Icicle Cre... : Forestland Boulders : The Coffee Cup (V9)
By: Colin R When: Dec 28, 2013

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Comments: F.A. was Ben Shrope circa 2002 I believe. Don't know where Ben is these days but he was a serious crusher back in the day....


Location: International : North America : Canada : Quebec : Laurentians : ... : Top Secret (V9)
By: Colin R When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: Jason Kehl crushing Top Secret....




Location: International : North America : Canada : Quebec : Laurentians : ... : Combustion (V7 PG13)
By: Colin R When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: Combustion is the third boulder problem in this video (the caption shows the first move). Pretty proud line although the climber in the video does make the first move look a bit more dramatic than necessary imo....




Location: NY : Adirondacks : Mckenzie Pond Boulders : First Set : Rhombohedron : Slot Machine (V5)
By: Colin R When: Nov 23, 2013

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Comments: Christian,

Your foot placement is definitely different than mine. I see you are using a backstep where as I was frog-legged with my left foot where your right is and right foot on the lower right foothold. I'll try your beta next time.

I'd still like to know whether the pocket was drilled or not and if so, why.

Thanks for the share....

-Colin


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Milk the Milks (V6)
By: Colin R When: Nov 22, 2013

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Comments: Me thinks it helps to be short and/or flexible on this line to do the first move. I just couldn't, for the life of me, stick the first move which is only about a 4 inch hand move - I just felt too scrunched. The rest of it flowed pretty nice but without the first move it doesn't count.

: (

BTW - is the move to the right hand incut hold on the V3 acceptable?


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Bejesus (V4-5)
By: Colin R When: Nov 22, 2013

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Comments: Christian,

Thanks for the directions - this boulder can be a bit tricky to find.

FYI - I am not sure what the top is like anymore but I remember cleaning lichen as I was climbing which made it feel a bit sketch on the FA. Perhaps some of that stuff has been cleaned.


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : The Green Egg (aka "Green M... (V6- PG13)
By: Colin R When: Nov 22, 2013

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Comments: I've added a PG-13 grade to reflect the pad situation and sizable fall. I don't think the fall is dangerous though if its well padded and you have a spotter or two since the ground kind of rises up with it.


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : The Dirty Job (V7-8)
By: Colin R When: Nov 21, 2013

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Comments: Lots of folks are using the new high toe-hook beta. This involves pinching the two pistol grips and then throwing the toes way up right and toe-hooking before moving back to the left side of the boulder with your hand. I am all for variations and even eliminates but I would say that you don't get the full value of the problem if you do it this way. Using the feet down low (which may have gotten worse) and throwing dynamically is really what the original problem is all about.

That said, I am hap... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Howard Carter SDS (V6-)
By: Colin R When: Nov 20, 2013

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Comments: Lots of variations/possibilities to start this thing. Andy's beta looks tricky and uses a very sharp crimp. I used the start left hand undercling straight to the right hand crimp then just bump again to the good right hold and its over.


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Top of the Notch Boulders : Forest Thump (V6)
By: Colin R When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: I could never do this problem for the life of me. Some sort of voodoo sit-down start hokum with splayed-out legs and a tree in your way. I could never keep my ass off the ground to do the moves properly. I've seen Bill P. make it look like V5 though....


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Outback Bouldering : White Rastafarian Boulder : ... : Photo
By: Colin R When: Oct 15, 2013

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Comments: King Kong aint got nothin' on you dawg!

Gave me a nice laugh on my sick day




Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : Calabogie Bouldering
By: Colin R When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: Need to add more problems...


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : ... : The Survivalist (V4-5 R)
By: Colin R When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: A friend of mine did this and apparently you can traverse into Electric Chair a bit earlier than I did which I think bumps the grade down a bit from V5 (V4/5?).


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Thin Fingers (5.11a)
By: Colin R When: Oct 4, 2013

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Comments: My first 11 crack and a good one at that. Gobbles up gear nicely. Just a beauty of a line...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Roadside Rocks Bouldering : JBMF Boulders : ... : JBMFP (V5)
By: Colin R When: Oct 4, 2013

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Comments: Titan - Why are you climbing sideways? That's looks sketchy....jk

; )


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : The Fastest Gun (5.10b)
By: Colin R When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: Hey Seth,

Thanks for posting that pic. It actually clarifies completely both of our points. Turns out I didn't finish the way you did and its actually fairly easy to explain from the photo I have edited from your photo (the red arrow is where I went). I went to the right of the bushes in the left of the photo - that's where the loose flake is. I got suckered into it because, as you can see its a low angled ramp there and it seemed easier and more mellow. I figured I would go that way and just f... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Outback Bouldering : White Rastafarian Boulder : White Rastafarian (V3 R)
By: Colin R When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: Russ, I think you mean B0 (as in old John Gill grade) and not V0.

Anyways, this is a great line. Mandatory highball for any visiting boulderer.


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