Comments: Closer to 12b in difficulty imo. SUPER technical so you can't just power your way through it. Also the second bolt should be placed lower, its pretty sketchy to clip and you can't clip from the rail unless you place an extension draw there. I recommend a long stick clip - dude from VR broke his ankle trying to clip it.
Comments: Here's a great video of a toe-hook problem near my neck of the woods. They took a V7+ problem and made it V5 if you're short enough to do what the woman does in the video. Looks all smooth but its also clear she's using the ground to throw her feet up - if that's what people are doing on the Dirty Job then definitely its NOT the same problem because its cheating. Besides, you'll never catch me trying that stuff on a boulder problem so I am probably never going to do that problem that way. Double... more >>
Comments: Up to you man - like I said there's no "wrong" way to climb anything. But throwing the toes up high and right to toe-hook the lip really is just a different problem, I don't believe my hands even wind up going that way anyways when I sent it. In terms of the "its too easy to cheat" comment, well there was definitely no cheating on the FA - Bill probably still has the video of it somewhere.
It's meant to be a power problem and the first move IS the move, the rest is a campus to the top.
Comments: I changed the danger grade from PG-13 to R. I probably should have done this earlier. The reason being I just heard about two people who fell on the upper moves where there is a shit landing and really messed themselves up - one apparently broke their back. Yikes! I recommend working those upper moves in isolation first to get it dialed (DONT FALL) then try the complete line.
Comments: Thanks for the info. Yeah I didn't catch that description in the guidebook but rather did the low start. It was one of those keep-your-butt-off-the-ground moves that would probably be easier if the ground wasn't there.
Comments: This thing is just nasty, thin and temperature dependent. I actually stuck the lip today and would have topped if it weren't for what happened next. As I started to pull over the lip I noticed it was quite slopey so I tried to top it beached whale style but there were pine needles, dirt and leaves everywhere so I started to slide to my right eventually going past my pads and then falling off completely - terrifying but the fall wound up being safe even with missing the pads since I fell into a p... more >>
Comments: This problem is a long, low-to-the-ground traverse that's probably harder for taller people. The crux is particularly crunchy and I have to do a deadpoint to the side pull with my left foot down low instead of the heel hook. Felt standard for V6 but it could see it being easier for shorter folks....
I have never heard anyone besides you say The Buttermilks are softer than J-Tree. JBMFP (V5) at J-Tree feels easier than Iron Man. White Rasta (V3) is only hyped because its highball. Likewise Flight attendent (V4 or V7 sit), The Turtle (V7), Caveman (V6), etc., all felt easier than Iron Man imho...
Comments: Also, for what it's worth the climbers I was with that day who all sent Malaria were Jeff and Ryan K. from Coyote's as well as JM from Altitude and myself. If you are going to keep this as V4 you need to downrate a bunch of other stuff too like Bullfighter. The consensus among all of us was that it is underrated at V4. Again, you're welcome to your opinion but I don't generally uprate things unless its really warranted.
Comments: Winter 2014 - Ice is quite steep this year on the right hand side. Left hand side is still Grade 3. Right hand side is Grade 4 to Grade 5- depending on the line choosen. An unusual year from what I understand.....
Comments: Combustion is the third boulder problem in this video (the caption shows the first move). Pretty proud line although the climber in the video does make the first move look a bit more dramatic than necessary imo....
Your foot placement is definitely different than mine. I see you are using a backstep where as I was frog-legged with my left foot where your right is and right foot on the lower right foothold. I'll try your beta next time.
I'd still like to know whether the pocket was drilled or not and if so, why.