Comments: Also, for what it's worth the climbers I was with that day who all sent Malaria were Jeff and Ryan K. from Coyote's as well as JM from Altitude and myself. If you are going to keep this as V4 you need to downrate a bunch of other stuff too like Bullfighter. The consensus among all of us was that it is underrated at V4. Again, you're welcome to your opinion but I don't generally uprate things unless its really warranted.
Comments: Winter 2014 - Ice is quite steep this year on the right hand side. Left hand side is still Grade 3. Right hand side is Grade 4 to Grade 5- depending on the line choosen. An unusual year from what I understand.....
Comments: Combustion is the third boulder problem in this video (the caption shows the first move). Pretty proud line although the climber in the video does make the first move look a bit more dramatic than necessary imo....
Your foot placement is definitely different than mine. I see you are using a backstep where as I was frog-legged with my left foot where your right is and right foot on the lower right foothold. I'll try your beta next time.
I'd still like to know whether the pocket was drilled or not and if so, why.
Comments: Me thinks it helps to be short and/or flexible on this line to do the first move. I just couldn't, for the life of me, stick the first move which is only about a 4 inch hand move - I just felt too scrunched. The rest of it flowed pretty nice but without the first move it doesn't count.
BTW - is the move to the right hand incut hold on the V3 acceptable?
Comments: I've added a PG-13 grade to reflect the pad situation and sizable fall. I don't think the fall is dangerous though if its well padded and you have a spotter or two since the ground kind of rises up with it.
Comments: Lots of folks are using the new high toe-hook beta. This involves pinching the two pistol grips and then throwing the toes way up right and toe-hooking before moving back to the left side of the boulder with your hand. I am all for variations and even eliminates but I would say that you don't get the full value of the problem if you do it this way. Using the feet down low (which may have gotten worse) and throwing dynamically is really what the original problem is all about.
Comments: Lots of variations/possibilities to start this thing. Andy's beta looks tricky and uses a very sharp crimp. I used the start left hand undercling straight to the right hand crimp then just bump again to the good right hold and its over.
Comments: I could never do this problem for the life of me. Some sort of voodoo sit-down start hokum with splayed-out legs and a tree in your way. I could never keep my ass off the ground to do the moves properly. I've seen Bill P. make it look like V5 though....
Thanks for posting that pic. It actually clarifies completely both of our points. Turns out I didn't finish the way you did and its actually fairly easy to explain from the photo I have edited from your photo (the red arrow is where I went). I went to the right of the bushes in the left of the photo - that's where the loose flake is. I got suckered into it because, as you can see its a low angled ramp there and it seemed easier and more mellow. I figured I would go that way and just f... more >>