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Getting ready to top out....


Member Since: Sep 10, 2007
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
Contact Colin R


Point Rank: # 650
Total Points: 945
Last Year: 308
Last 30 Days: 1
8 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Colin R been climbing?










Contributions


All 510 | Routes 38 | Areas 6 | Photos 59 | Page Improvments | Comments 180 | Posts 28 | Stars 118 | Ratings 81
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : North America : Canada : Quebec : Outaouais : ... : Good Vibrations (5.12a)
By: Colin R When: Jul 24, 2014

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Comments: Closer to 12b in difficulty imo. SUPER technical so you can't just power your way through it. Also the second bolt should be placed lower, its pretty sketchy to clip and you can't clip from the rail unless you place an extension draw there. I recommend a long stick clip - dude from VR broke his ankle trying to clip it.


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Top of the Notch Boulders : The Sadomasochist (V7+)
By: Colin R When: Jul 19, 2014

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Comments: How recently and what hold? I sent it last summer and it felt like V7+ or V7/8. It really depends on the hold to deserve an upgrade to V8 but I am open to it....


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Top of the Notch Boulders : The Sadomasochist (V7+)
By: Colin R When: Jun 10, 2014

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Comments: I got some feedback on this being on the harder side of V7 (7+) which I concur with, hence the slight upgrade.


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : The Dirty Job (V7-8)
By: Colin R When: Jun 7, 2014

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Comments: Here's a great video of a toe-hook problem near my neck of the woods. They took a V7+ problem and made it V5 if you're short enough to do what the woman does in the video. Looks all smooth but its also clear she's using the ground to throw her feet up - if that's what people are doing on the Dirty Job then definitely its NOT the same problem because its cheating. Besides, you'll never catch me trying that stuff on a boulder problem so I am probably never going to do that problem that way. Double... more >>


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : The Dirty Job (V7-8)
By: Colin R When: Jun 7, 2014

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Comments: Up to you man - like I said there's no "wrong" way to climb anything. But throwing the toes up high and right to toe-hook the lip really is just a different problem, I don't believe my hands even wind up going that way anyways when I sent it. In terms of the "its too easy to cheat" comment, well there was definitely no cheating on the FA - Bill probably still has the video of it somewhere.

It's meant to be a power problem and the first move IS the move, the rest is a campus to the top.

Howeve... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : Quebec : Laurentians : ... : Fais-moi mal Johnny (V6 R)
By: Colin R When: Jun 6, 2014

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Comments: I changed the danger grade from PG-13 to R. I probably should have done this earlier. The reason being I just heard about two people who fell on the upper moves where there is a shit landing and really messed themselves up - one apparently broke their back. Yikes! I recommend working those upper moves in isolation first to get it dialed (DONT FALL) then try the complete line.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : ... : Malaria (V4-5)
By: Colin R When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the info. Yeah I didn't catch that description in the guidebook but rather did the low start. It was one of those keep-your-butt-off-the-ground moves that would probably be easier if the ground wasn't there.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : ... : Malaria (V4-5)
By: Colin R When: Jun 1, 2014

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Comments: I downrated it to V4/5 but I am not going any lower. I think its silly to say this is anything other than a full grade harder than Bullfighter which is currently V3/4..


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : ... : The Bullfighter's Friend (V3-4)
By: Colin R When: Jun 1, 2014

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Comments: I think the left hand variation is actually harder than the right. I would agree with the original guidebook that the left variation is V4 and the right perhaps V4-.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : ... : Ken's Super Slab (V5)
By: Colin R When: Jun 1, 2014

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Comments: This thing is just nasty, thin and temperature dependent. I actually stuck the lip today and would have topped if it weren't for what happened next. As I started to pull over the lip I noticed it was quite slopey so I tried to top it beached whale style but there were pine needles, dirt and leaves everywhere so I started to slide to my right eventually going past my pads and then falling off completely - terrifying but the fall wound up being safe even with missing the pads since I fell into a p... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Smooth Shrimp (V5-6)
By: Colin R When: May 28, 2014

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Comments: This problem is a long, low-to-the-ground traverse that's probably harder for taller people. The crux is particularly crunchy and I have to do a deadpoint to the side pull with my left foot down low instead of the heel hook. Felt standard for V6 but it could see it being easier for shorter folks....


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Go Granny Go (V5)
By: Colin R When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: Benchmark V5 for the area imo. Very nice line....


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Iron Man Traverse (V4)
By: Colin R When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: Dave,

I have never heard anyone besides you say The Buttermilks are softer than J-Tree. JBMFP (V5) at J-Tree feels easier than Iron Man. White Rasta (V3) is only hyped because its highball. Likewise Flight attendent (V4 or V7 sit), The Turtle (V7), Caveman (V6), etc., all felt easier than Iron Man imho...


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : ... : Malaria (V4-5)
By: Colin R When: Apr 5, 2014

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Comments: Also, for what it's worth the climbers I was with that day who all sent Malaria were Jeff and Ryan K. from Coyote's as well as JM from Altitude and myself. If you are going to keep this as V4 you need to downrate a bunch of other stuff too like Bullfighter. The consensus among all of us was that it is underrated at V4. Again, you're welcome to your opinion but I don't generally uprate things unless its really warranted.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : ... : Malaria (V4-5)
By: Colin R When: Apr 3, 2014

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Comments: Just have a look "The Bullfighter's Friend" which is a nearby problem rated V4:

www.mountainproject.com/v/108601757

Malaria is obviously steeper, has a harder start, uses crappier holds and has a more awkward topout = V5...

But you're free to make up your own mind.

Really nice problem regardless.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Orient Bay (Ice) : ... : Photo
By: Colin R When: Mar 19, 2014

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Comments: Holy crap it is looking good right now! Looks even better than it did in February...


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond... : Ice Slot (WI4-)
By: Colin R When: Mar 6, 2014

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Comments: Mike your story doesn't surprise me at all. That central pillar always looks/feels sketchy to me and I can only imagine what -18 degree temps would do to it.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Orient Bay (Ice) : Cascade Falls (WI3-4)
By: Colin R When: Feb 25, 2014

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Comments: Winter 2014 - Ice is quite steep this year on the right hand side. Left hand side is still Grade 3. Right hand side is Grade 4 to Grade 5- depending on the line choosen. An unusual year from what I understand.....


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Orient Bay (Ice) : ... : Photo
By: Colin R When: Feb 25, 2014

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Comments: Cascade Falls is in fat and steep this year. There's a grade 5 line right down the center, even slightly past vertical in some spots if you can believe it....


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Modern Times (5.8+)
By: Colin R When: Jan 14, 2014

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Comments: Seriously nice video Dave - thanks for the share. Definitely gives the viewer the sensation of squirreliness one feels when climbing the route....


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : ** Bouldering in Icicle Cre... : Forestland Boulders : Arrested Development (V5)
By: Colin R When: Dec 28, 2013

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Comments: I did this thing way back in the day. Was the only line I could do that day in that area. Nice line - too bad a hold broke.....


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : ** Bouldering in Icicle Cre... : Forestland Boulders : The Coffee Cup (V9)
By: Colin R When: Dec 28, 2013

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Comments: F.A. was Ben Shrope circa 2002 I believe. Don't know where Ben is these days but he was a serious crusher back in the day....


Location: International : North America : Canada : Quebec : Laurentians : ... : Top Secret (V9)
By: Colin R When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: Jason Kehl crushing Top Secret....




Location: International : North America : Canada : Quebec : Laurentians : ... : Combustion (V7 PG13)
By: Colin R When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: Combustion is the third boulder problem in this video (the caption shows the first move). Pretty proud line although the climber in the video does make the first move look a bit more dramatic than necessary imo....




Location: NY : Adirondacks : Mckenzie Pond Boulders : First Set : Rhombohedron : Slot Machine (V5)
By: Colin R When: Nov 23, 2013

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Comments: Christian,

Your foot placement is definitely different than mine. I see you are using a backstep where as I was frog-legged with my left foot where your right is and right foot on the lower right foothold. I'll try your beta next time.

I'd still like to know whether the pocket was drilled or not and if so, why.

Thanks for the share....

-Colin


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