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Member Since: Sep 10, 2007
Last Visit: 15 hours ago
Contact Colin R

Point Rank: # 709
Total Points: 965
Last Year: 30
Last 30 Days: 1
8 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 565 | Routes 39 | Areas 6 | Photos 58 | Page Improvements | Comments 195 | Posts 48 | Stars 129 | Ratings 90
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Bejesus Boulder : Bejesus (V4-5)
By: Colin R When: Jun 8, 2015

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Comments: Sounds like you got yourself an FA. Feel free to add it to MP...


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Bejesus Boulder : Bejesus (V4-5)
By: Colin R When: May 25, 2015

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Comments: Not to my knowledge. Could be an FA....


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Bejesus Boulder : Bejesus (V4-5)
By: Colin R When: May 25, 2015

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Comments: I've done the problem both with and without the large flake. With it, the problem is more V4, without it is closer to V5 (hence V4/5). We skipped it and moved left both to make the problem harder and because the moves were cool with a nice flow continuing on the small crimps. Use it if you want but the FA was done without it.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Lion's Head : ... : Sargasso Sea (5.12d)
By: Colin R When: May 2, 2015

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Comments: I hear this line rarely gets done and is likely closer to 13a. It spat me off pretty good - couldn't figure out the crux moves....


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Snake Buttress : New World Order (5.12a/b)
By: Colin R When: Apr 26, 2015

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Comments: A quick complaint before I gush:

I was not impressed with Mr. Horst's bolt-job on this line (in spite of his climbing and writing abilities). The third bolt is hard to clip if you are hanging the draws and if you fall there before clipping (even before you pull slack) you can land on your belayer or deck - I nearly did.

Apart from that it's a fantastic line! Man are the moves cool and super sequential. Screw up one foot placement or hand sequence or lose your focus and you are coming off this ... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : The Summit Area : The Headless Horseman (5.11+ V6)
By: Colin R When: Apr 2, 2015

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Comments: How can something be 5.11+ or V6?

V6 is 5.12 to 5.12+


Location: CO : Crested Butte : Skyland Boulders : The Hone Stone : Weeping Warrior/Berholtz Ar... (V9-)
By: Colin R When: Mar 5, 2015

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Comments: Nice looking line.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : ... : Photo
By: Colin R When: Feb 26, 2015

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Comments: Mellon's guidebook is crazy sandbagged. FG would be rated 5.10d/11a in Squamish imo.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : ... : Coordination Tongue (V6)
By: Colin R When: Jan 23, 2015

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Comments: I tried this and there is NO WAY it is V6. Absurdly small crimps....


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Outback Bouldering : White Rastafarian Boulder : White Rastafarian (V1+ R)
By: Colin R When: Jan 15, 2015

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Comments: The growing bandwagon of people downrating this problem is laughable to the extreme. Apparently even the author has gotten caught up in the hype....

V1+

Really people?

Still though the vast majority seem to think its V3 - why change the grade?


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Lion's Head : ... : Gateway to the Vertical Wor... (5.12a/b)
By: Colin R When: Jan 15, 2015

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Comments: Another classic for the area


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Lion's Head : ... : The Mandate (5.11d)
By: Colin R When: Jan 15, 2015

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Comments: Best 5.11 in the area I think - or at least from what I have sampled.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Lion's Head : ... : Zone of Extreme Beauty (5.12c)
By: Colin R When: Jan 15, 2015

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Comments: I gave this a PG-13 rating because the bolts are a bit sketch and far apart - I believe some may be loose too (one was for me). Additionally there is an old piton you must clip up high which I am not 100% sure about. I think the 4th bolt I recall is hard to clip unless you wander around and slightly above it clipping really low - otherwise you have to clip off a terrible sloper. If you find yourself wandering all over the place on this one don't worry, you're doing it right but man is i... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : ... : Malaria (V4)
By: Colin R When: Nov 14, 2014

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Comments: Switching this to V4 and adding "Malaria Low" as V5


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : ... : Trench Warfare (V5)
By: Colin R When: Nov 14, 2014

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Comments: Found it easier to match the crimp using the heel hook and bust far right almost like a drive-by. Then you hit the lower part of the rail to the right of the jug. I really liked this line - nice pure crimp style.


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : The Tramway : Trailside Boulders : Mandala of Tram : ... : Photo
By: Colin R When: Nov 8, 2014

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Comments: This photo makes me uncomfortable....Just sayin'.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Quebec : Outaouais : ... : Anti-Gravity (5.12c)
By: Colin R When: Oct 26, 2014

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Comments: This is THE primo line for the grade in Gatineau Park. Probably the best 5.12 in the area.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Quebec : Outaouais : ... : Alcatraz (5.12a/b)
By: Colin R When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: Phil Gingras and I both had a try at this and couldn't make it past the final roof. I think our conclusion is that either a hold broke or the route is way harder than listed. Coming out of the roof from the face climbing section seems to involve some voodoo climbing and virtually no holds...


Location: International : North America : Canada : Quebec : Outaouais : ... : Good Vibrations (5.12a)
By: Colin R When: Jul 24, 2014

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Comments: Closer to 12b in difficulty imo. SUPER technical so you can't just power your way through it. Also the second bolt should be placed lower, its pretty sketchy to clip and you can't clip from the rail unless you place an extension draw there. I recommend a long stick clip - dude from VR broke his ankle trying to clip it.


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Top of the Notch Boulders : Wheaties Boulder : The Sadomasochist (V7+)
By: Colin R When: Jul 19, 2014

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Comments: How recently and what hold? I sent it last summer and it felt like V7+ or V7/8. It really depends on the hold to deserve an upgrade to V8 but I am open to it....


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Top of the Notch Boulders : Wheaties Boulder : The Sadomasochist (V7+)
By: Colin R When: Jun 10, 2014

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Comments: I got some feedback on this being on the harder side of V7 (7+) which I concur with, hence the slight upgrade.


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : The Guiness Traverse Boulde... : The Dirty Job (V7-8)
By: Colin R When: Jun 7, 2014

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Comments: Here's a great video of a toe-hook problem near my neck of the woods. They took a V7+ problem and made it V5 if you're short enough to do what the woman does in the video. Looks all smooth but its also clear she's using the ground to throw her feet up - if that's what people are doing on the Dirty Job then definitely its NOT the same problem because its cheating. Besides, you'll never catch me trying that stuff on a boulder problem so I am probably never going to do that problem that way. Double... more >>


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : The Guiness Traverse Boulde... : The Dirty Job (V7-8)
By: Colin R When: Jun 7, 2014

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Comments: Up to you man - like I said there's no "wrong" way to climb anything. But throwing the toes up high and right to toe-hook the lip really is just a different problem, I don't believe my hands even wind up going that way anyways when I sent it. In terms of the "its too easy to cheat" comment, well there was definitely no cheating on the FA - Bill probably still has the video of it somewhere.

It's meant to be a power problem and the first move IS the move, the rest is a campus to the top.

Howeve... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : Quebec : Laurentians : ... : Fais-moi mal Johnny (V6 R)
By: Colin R When: Jun 6, 2014

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Comments: I changed the danger grade from PG-13 to R. I probably should have done this earlier. The reason being I just heard about two people who fell on the upper moves where there is a shit landing and really messed themselves up - one apparently broke their back. Yikes! I recommend working those upper moves in isolation first to get it dialed (DONT FALL) then try the complete line.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : ... : Malaria (V4)
By: Colin R When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the info. Yeah I didn't catch that description in the guidebook but rather did the low start. It was one of those keep-your-butt-off-the-ground moves that would probably be easier if the ground wasn't there.


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