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Bouldering in Joshua Tree


Member Since: Mar 16, 2008
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Colin Parker


Point Rank: # 326
Total Points: 1,652
Last Year: 770
Last 30 Days: 1
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Contributions


All (972) | Routes (56) | Areas (40) | Photos (75) | Comments (117) | Posts (65) | Stars (341) | Ratings (278)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : South Ridge Boulders : Malcom's Best : South Ridge Arete (V5 PG13) : Photo
By: Colin Parker When: 3 days ago

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Comments: That is some strong stuff. No pad wintertime ascent!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rock Area : Conan's Corridor : Spiderman (5.10a)
By: Colin Parker When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: This route is 10b, and continuous and somewhat insecure up high even at that grade. Gear-wise, you don't even need a #4 but you might feel a bit fuzzier with one. It goes just fine without tape gloves but my hands hurt more than usual afterward (but no blood!).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rock Area : Conan's Corridor : True Dice (5.10a X)
By: Colin Parker When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: I thought this was a great route, and absolutely worth the effort to TR if in the area. The bottom crux felt in the thin 10b range. It's a shame there isn't a single bolt to protect the bottom section. It would still be a bit runout, but vastly more encouraging to prospective leaders.


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : Black Mountain : OK Corral Central
By: Colin Parker When: Jan 13, 2014

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Comments: I am organizing most of my contributions in this area according to the Five-Star Southern California Bouldering book. AJ, I moved your two boulders to the OK Corral Lower area to keep in line with the guide.


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : Black Mountain : OK Corral Upper : Powers Boulder : Unnamed (V5)
By: Colin Parker When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: I think the 'direct finish' is the v5 line, and in fact I found it to be soft at that grade. [Beta] There's a distant edge you can throw for with the left hand when you lock off at the lip with your right.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Schoolhouse Rock : The Check's in the Mail (5.7)
By: Colin Parker When: Jan 6, 2014

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Comments: I went to Schoolhouse with a few beginners yesterday and agree that the crux of this route seemed to be much harder than 5.7.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : The Vampire (5.11a)
By: Colin Parker When: Jan 5, 2014

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Comments: Climbed this thing today on a nice, sunny January day up here. A few additions to the comments above:

1. I think the direct start is clean and a must-do. In fact, it seems a bit silly that it's not part of the standard vampire route, although I understand that it was originally an aid line that went free. Save yourself the extra approach and give yourself some more quality climbing!

2. Gear-wise, I would recommend a standard double rack, possibly adding extra #1 & #2 C4s if you do ... more >>


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Right of the Roof : La Bella Donna (5.12d)
By: Colin Parker When: Dec 22, 2013

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Comments: You can setup a top-rope on this route by climbing Salubrious and traversing right from the anchors on that route.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Torture Machine Area
By: Colin Parker When: Nov 25, 2013

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Comments: Can we rename this the Tangerine Dream area? It's far more remarkable (at least visually) than Torture Machine, which relatively few people get on.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Taboo Area : Forbidden Fruit (5.12a)
By: Colin Parker When: Nov 25, 2013

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Comments: The dihedral portion at the top of this climb is even more stellar! But, it can get a bit dirty and grainy after rain or without much action.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Oyster Bar Area : The Asylum : ... : Photo
By: Colin Parker When: Nov 19, 2013

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Comments: Amazing photo. Just amazing.


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : Backcountry Bouldering : Willow Creek Trail : Doden (V3) : Photo
By: Colin Parker When: Nov 8, 2013

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Comments: Awesome!


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : Backcountry Bouldering : Satellite Boulders : Diamond in the Rough (5.10) : Photo
By: Colin Parker When: Nov 8, 2013

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Comments: Wild. Glad you added these! :-)


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : South Ridge Boulders : Parking Lot Boulder : Jump Start (V1)
By: Colin Parker When: Nov 8, 2013

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Comments: Video below:


youtu.be/JbW-piy076Y


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : South Ridge Boulders : Parking Lot Boulder : 5.9 Right (V0-)
By: Colin Parker When: Nov 7, 2013

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Comments: I didn't see any start holds for this one so I did a jump start and it turned into an awesome problem! Video below:


youtu.be/JbW-piy076Y


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : South Ridge Boulders : Parking Lot Boulder : 5.9 (V0-)
By: Colin Parker When: Nov 7, 2013

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Comments: You can start just left of the arete and climb straight up.


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : South Ridge Boulders
By: Colin Parker When: Nov 7, 2013

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Comments: I haven't found any other sources for information on this area. IMO, Craig Fry's guide is poor and dated.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : Dave's Deviation (5.9)
By: Colin Parker When: Sep 25, 2013

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Comments: Just a note, Bob Gaines new Tahquitz book says that the second pitch starts on the right side of the P1 belay ledge and liebacks the flake until heading up and left on the face above (then around the overhang [crux])


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : Piton Pooper (5.7)
By: Colin Parker When: Sep 25, 2013

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Comments: This route was alright, not great. A 60m will allow you to get from the left side of Pine Tree ledge to the start of Upper Royal's Arch. Enjoy!


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Ozone : {10} Mordor : Getting Your Kicks (5.10)
By: Colin Parker When: Sep 19, 2013

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Comments: I led this route last week and it felt comfortably within the 5.10 range. It is far easier than route 66 next door. If consensus pushes it up into the 10d/11a range I will adjust the route grade.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Ozone : {10} Mordor : Route 66 (5.11c)
By: Colin Parker When: Sep 11, 2013

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Comments: What is the nice bolted climb to the left of Route 66? It seems to go at 5.10- or so.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Ozone : (9) New School Wall : Small Nuts (5.8)
By: Colin Parker When: Sep 11, 2013

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Comments: This is one of the few climbs I've done here that required more trad gear than quickdraws. A single set of cams from .5" to 2" will do fine. I didn't find the pro too sketchy either. Worth doing!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Rutabaga (5.11a)
By: Colin Parker When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: I have climbed up to the tree on this route several times and think the climbing is only 5.9 to this point (which is higher than the first pitch anchors). If you are looking for a moderate climb in the Grand Wall base area, definitely check this thing out.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Dessert Dike (5.10a PG13)
By: Colin Parker When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: I would say that the first gear is 20-25 feet off the ground and the climbing is easy past the initial moves. This is a pretty safe lead, with the bolts at the cruxes. I thought this was the best pitch of climbing on a day linking Snake to Butt Face.


Location: OR : Carver : Carver Cliff : Yellow Wall : Rites of Passage (5.11c)
By: Colin Parker When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: Considering how heinously filthy (and short) the third pitch is, it might be best to list this as a two pitch 5.10c and mention the optional third pitch. It would probably serve the site users a bit more who are looking for a more moderate climb.


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