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Member Since: Mar 5, 2003
Last Visit: Aug 14, 2014
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Point Rank: # 5,530
Total Points: 63
Last Year: 11
Last 30 Days: 0
12 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 52 | Routes | Areas | Photos 6 | Page Improvments | Comments 33 | Posts | Stars 9 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Zion National Park : Desert Shield Buttress : Desert Shield (5.11a C3)
By: Colin Coulson When: Apr 20, 2014

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Comments: Its already been said, but this really is an excellent and varietous route. The bivy really sets it apart and certainly justifies the three pitches of hauling. Id think itd dissuade even fast parties from the single day push. A quick note on strategy - Fixing: If you fix from the bivy, you can fix one rope from the bivy to the top of 4, then a second rope from the top of 4 to 6 however, it is much more efficient to tie this rope off to the anchors at the top of 5. Less free hanging j... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley
By: Colin Coulson When: Sep 25, 2012

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Comments: I haven't seen this amazing resource up on MP yet, so here it is - super hi-res panoramas from Yosemite's most striking summits: The Yosemite Extreme Panoramic Imaging Project

Zoom in/out on the images and you'll be able to explore the most stunning route finding resource available.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10) : Photo
By: Colin Coulson When: May 4, 2010

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Comments: Joe leading for the first time in his life. Nice work Joe. Way to romance that stone.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Colorado Northeast Ridge (5.8 C2)
By: Colin Coulson When: Oct 4, 2005

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Comments: I might very well be alone in this, but it seems to me that the old fixed junk was one of the highlights of this climb.I fully understand the need to replace bum fixed gear for the sake of safety - especially on heavily traveled intro routes like CNeR. However, I've always felt that part of the fun of the Fishers is in finding the occasional fixed gear freakshow that was likely placed by the first ascentionist. The star drivins, drilled angles, and the occasional hardware store funk is fun to ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Onion Creek : Mystery Towers & Top of the...
By: Colin Coulson When: Sep 22, 2005

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Comments: Read "Sherman Exposed" for an excelent trip report from the Mystery Towers!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Conan's Gonads (Conad's) (5.9)
By: Colin Coulson When: Sep 12, 2005

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Comments: Certainly my favorite single pitch 9 at Lumpy so far. Excelent! Do a few laps if you're waiting for one of the teeth to open up. Thanks for the hand yesterday, David... sucks to forget the book. Glad you were there!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Batman Pinnacle : Batman and Robin (5.6)
By: Colin Coulson When: Sep 12, 2005

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Comments: One more comment on the DESCENT. It is possible to rap the 30' to the notch between the pinnacle and Batman Rock then scramble west briefly and then south down towards the base. Just as you reach the Batman Flake the angle increases and there is a rap station. Rap less than 80' to more slings around a horn. When pulling your ropes here, fling them aggressively to keep them clear of the chimney. The final rap from the horn is fairly short. All single rope rappels with a 50 meter. This will ... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif : Tool Or Die (5.10a)
By: Colin Coulson When: Sep 12, 2005

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Comments: Funky entrance, and a GREAT hand crack... very unlike Vedawoo. It is possible to toprope hammer off of the bolts - a fun experiment to see how much more whipped you feel after an offwidth that is at least a grade easier.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif : Screw (5.7)
By: Colin Coulson When: Sep 12, 2005

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Comments: Excellent!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Colorado Northeast Ridge (5.8 C2)
By: Colin Coulson When: Oct 14, 2004

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Comments: Hmmm, did either of you guys see any shiny bolts on that ridge? I am still curious if there was an effort to replace the old rusted crap... maybe just the anchors? Well, as far as the fixed gear- I know that the bent pin at the roof looks sketchy, in fact I didn't clip it when i climbed it cause I thought it would pull, bit I have heard a story about it catching someone's fall. Use it... its "bomber" (fisher towers bomber - its different). Maybe its time for another tour up this heap anyway.... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Angel's Landing : Lowe Route (A2)
By: Colin Coulson When: Sep 30, 2004

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Comments: How is the bivy on top of pitch four? on pitch seven? Ledges or just good anchors to hang a ledge at? Thanks.

C


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Steppenwolf (5.9)
By: Colin Coulson When: Sep 7, 2004

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Comments: There are decent anchors on top of this one- a cord and a sling from which you can top rope or rap with a 60 meter rope. This anchor is shared with Gobble Up. If rapping be careful to find the center of your rope as a 60 m cord will put your tails about 4 feet of the ground.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Colorado Northeast Ridge (5.8 C2)
By: Colin Coulson When: Aug 31, 2004

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Comments: I heard a rumor that someone replaced some of the fixed mank on this route. Anybody know the details?C


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Finger of Fate (5.8 A2)
By: Colin Coulson When: May 7, 2004

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Comments: Hey A.Coward,

If you intend to slander me then at least sack up and leave your name and e-mail address. Better yet, email me with your problems instead of spewing your un-informed beliefs about me and my climbing on climbingmoab!On my own behalf: I led plenty of the 'Finger'- including the 2nd and 4th pitches- all clean. That was in fact my first aid climb... ever! I certainly don't have the right to tell another how to climb any route, but I find nothing wrong with passing judgment based e... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Finger of Fate (5.8 A2)
By: Colin Coulson When: May 3, 2004

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Comments: Great question, Anonymous Coward... In fact, I did. I'd much rather address that topic in a fact-to-face manner than in this forum. However, this seems to be a fine means of promoting clean climbing, especially to people who are headed for the _Finger._ Wouldn't you agree?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Finger of Fate (5.8 A2)
By: Colin Coulson When: Apr 24, 2004

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Comments: In the last week I have met two parties headed for the Finger with hammer in hand. Why? I know that books published in the last ten years still describe this as a nailing route, but it isn't anymore. It is clear from this route description that this route goes clean; it's great to have s source that is constantly being updated (thanks CM). This route is classic and is fast becoming a _trade route_ (if the Fishers even have any!) and it is crucial that it is protected. It seems tha... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : Intifada (5.10 A5 X)
By: Colin Coulson When: Apr 21, 2004

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Comments: Andy, the comment "that they are just going to fall down anyway" does seem foolhardy. I drew attention to this argument partially due to what Layton Kor said when asked why he was climbing the Titan: "Not because it's there, but because it might not be there much longer." Just FYI.


Location: UT : Zion National Park
By: Colin Coulson When: Apr 21, 2004

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Comments: When do the sunny walls become unclimbable due to sun exposure? Anyone know what CFS makes the river unmanageable (from looking at the gauges on bigwall.com)? I guess I am just wondering when the season ends for the summer. Little help here...C


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : Intifada (5.10 A5 X)
By: Colin Coulson When: Apr 15, 2004

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Comments: Could it be that the land managers previously mentioned are or one day will be right? Is the elimination of climbing in the Fishers the best decision for the towers? The Fishers are possibly THE place for frightening adventure, but it is simply impossible to surmount these towers without leaving your mark. Even on the trade routes there are scars from _clean_ aid. Granted, these towers may only be around for X number more years (Geologists, help me out on this one!) due to their discontinuity... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : East Side (5.8+)
By: Colin Coulson When: Apr 6, 2004

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Comments: It is truly a shame that this pinnacle is so shadowed by the surrounding monoliths on all sides. If this route topped the Owls or the Book it would easily be a candidate for "50 Classics".The initial pitch is great hands to fun off-fists/layback. Topping out the first pitch leaves you on a great perch. If the belay is moved left between the large flake and the main rock (after bringing up the second) it positions you directly below the steep crux crack. The gear is great and the view is bett... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Moor's Crossing (5.6)
By: Colin Coulson When: Apr 4, 2004

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Comments: Hey tall guys... this is where the Karma sets in. If you had fun teasing all your short pals on your last trip they probably will sign you up for the lead on this first pitch... and you deserve it.It isn't impossible for us gangly folk. My partner, Phil, and I managed to squeeze our 6'3" frames through. Both of us wear pant sizes around 34x34-36 just for refrence. Its worth the laughs so don't pass it by. C. C.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Colorado Northeast Ridge (5.8 C2)
By: Colin Coulson When: Sep 16, 2003

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Comments: How long are these pitches, how many ropes are neede to fix the route. Is it doable in a day? how long of a day? How high is the whole climb? Eh? C


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Colorado Northeast Ridge (5.8 C2)
By: Colin Coulson When: Sep 15, 2003

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Comments: How is the sun exposure on this route? Is it totally shaded? We are looking into a possible Sept/Oct climb and are curious about late summer conditions. Any advice would be great! Colin 9/15/03


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge
By: Colin Coulson When: Sep 14, 2003

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Comments: It was COLD this weekend up high in Glacier Gorge. Ice is starting to come in. Thin, but it is coming none the less. If conditions keep staying cold (i.e. freezing hard at night with a little sun during the day) count on an early start up around Black Lake and around McHenry's and Pagoda. Keep an eye on it and get your tools ready!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Finger of Fate (5.8 A2)
By: Colin Coulson When: Apr 6, 2003

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Comments: Thanks again for the info. We climbed the Finger over two days- 3/29-30/03. The first three pitches took the most time but were climbed clean with out two much trouble. I don't know what I would rate this climb, as this was our teams first dedicated aid climb. The placements throughout the route are somewhat scary (e.g. small, sloping pin scars) and sandy. Tricams are the answer. It would behoove you two pack doubles of the smallest four to use in the pin scars. The fourth pitch traverse ... more >>


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