Comments: I don't know what to say about this route other than today was the first time I've ever not been able to do a single move on a route. Maybe I'm having withdrawals from my recent trip to HCR and the sandstone or maybe I had an off day on route finding but I was thrown off this route time and time again today. I had to rap off the 5th bolt and retreat in defeat.
For the grade I can honestly say I've been humbled. I would love to see someone, anyone, climb this route and make it look like an 11c.... more >>
Comments: Awesome route with great exposure and a quick pump. Bolt 5's gate was frozen shut which made that clip extra spicy. It had rained a few days before so if you're attempting this route after a recent rain be aware that bolt 5's gate might be stiff.
Comments: Fisheye lens has distorted distances here. Call of the Wild Man starts on the tip of the boulder in lower right of photo. It's directly under the start, don't let this photo scare you into thinking you have to leap to it.
Comments: Due to the chossy nature of this area this route is on its way to becoming unclimbable for the greater majority of people who venture here. Many of the better holds have chipped away and many more are soon to follow. This route feels much more desperate now - likely much harder now than 12b.
The Pulpit is currently being encroached upon by construction. The base of the wall has roughly 10 feet of dirt covering it making these already short routes even shorter. The area has also been completely cleaned of trees placing the area into direct sunlight.
Comments: V3 variation: Start with left hand on circular crimp and right hand slightly higher on the other logical crimp. Smear feet and bump left hand to slopey ledge, bump again to gain higher ledge with small lip. Move right hand to lower slope then work feet high. Extend to jug ledge with right and top out.
A buddy of mine and I were working this and we normally boulder v4/v5. Seeing this rated as a V-Easy was a bit stunning at first then we realized we were making it hard. Sometimes the easy lines ... more >>
My wife and I climbed this on 4/4/13 and had a large rock (100+lbs) slide off at us.
I was anchored into P3 belaying my wife's top out on P4. She had just anchored into P4 when the chossy ledge to the left of P4's route decided to let a couple of the large slabs of rocks slide. The large slabs began to slide down directly at me on the P3 anchors, luckily very slowly. I was able to halt the large piece by pressing my hands and knee down on it but doing so... more >>
Comments: Seems that this route is described as having one more bolt than it actually does. I looked around in the cave for a good 2 minutes before having my buddy carriage up a 1" cam on my rope to protect a pretty bad fall if you don't pull the roof correctly.
Other than that I can't complain about the routes fun factor. The face climbing at the beginning is definitely the harder part.
Comments: Apparently the alternative to this route is a direct start from the beginning just under the first bolt. In the book (blue cover - color photo) it says the rating is an 5.11a. Not sure this move makes the route any more difficult but it does take out the possible swing in the beginning. The fun moves are just after this anyways.
Comments: Great route with a solid boulder start. Love the pull through at the beginning and the thin face climbing. In my opinion if you finish right to the proper anchors you're selling this route short. Finish left on Power Snatch for a more consistent rating.
I think saying the route isn't bolted well is probably correct. There are some potential injuries before you've clipped the second bolt. Either stick clip the second of be very sure of your abilities. The anchors to the right do meander a little... more >>