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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Rhadamanthus (5.10a R)
By: Clint Locks When: Apr 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Consider Sarah's comments before launching off, but I thought this climb offered quite good protection. Really fun! The final few feet was all loose rock and steep duff. Barely worth noting, though, since that's the norm for all the Kashmir-area pitches.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : The Castle : Throne Room (5.10)
By: Clint Locks When: Sep 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Be advised that, although it's an astounding position and a great climb, the final few moves of pitch 3 include an unprotected awkward mantel onto the final summit slab. If you blow it here, it would be very bad.
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Location: Mark Roth : 5-23-12 Eldorado Trundle Pa... : Photo
By: Clint Locks When: May 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for these pics, you all. Great work up there! The life you saved may have been mine...or yours!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Let it Vee (5.7)
By: Clint Locks When: Apr 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The infamous tree stump has been removed. Note--the very loose walk-off ledge traverses just above this pitch, so expect some rockfall on a busy day.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : The Playground : Little Lebowski Urban Achie... : ... : Photo
By: Clint Locks When: Mar 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: "He doesn't believe in anything. He's a nihilist."
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Chianti (5.8+)
By: Clint Locks When: Jan 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Due to traffic on the final pitch, we ended up finishing Chianti via the final pitch of Rocks to Climb Routes To. It's the next crack to the right. Fun pitch (.10b or so) with a spicy start but good climbing...until the day that giant flake at the crux comes flying off. Seems imminent.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Chick on the Side (5.10b/c)
By: Clint Locks When: Oct 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Had another fling with this one today, then continued with Variation to Mail Ridge (Going Postal?) and finished on the exquisite Handcracker Direct. Levin calls it the Mail Ridge Tower Link-up or something. Really fun!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : T2 (5.10d R)
By: Clint Locks When: Sep 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 9-8-11, there are four pins on the .9 rotten band pitch, though one is a back-up, only a couple of inches above one of the original (?) one. Not confidence-inspiring.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : T2 (5.10d R)
By: Clint Locks When: Sep 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Levin guide shows a good way to break up the upper pitches, unless you want to run together the two pitches from the upper ledge, which is reasonable, though rope drag could be an issue if you're not careful. I'm not sold on Dane's assertion that there's "good" gear to be had on that pitch until you pull onto the ledge. For the final 2 pitches, stay true to the strata you begin on, belay at a small tree, and finish it from there.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrut... (5.11b)
By: Clint Locks When: Aug 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Happened upon this random route for the first time yesterday. Well bolted for Eldo! Tough start, slabby finish, and lots of fun in-between. Definitely worth a run after topping out on Anthill Direct or any of its neighbors.
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Location: CO : 10 Mile Canyon : Mount Royal (near Frisco) : Royal Flush (5.9) : Photo
By: Clint Locks When: Aug 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's worth mentioning that the belay for the 5.9 variation is quite a ways around the corner from the 5.10. The difference in difficulty between the two pitches is obvious from the apron. As with many things on this route, follow your nose.
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Location: CO : 10 Mile Canyon : Mount Royal (near Frisco) : Royal Flush (5.9)
By: Clint Locks When: Aug 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: It would be nice for someone to bring a lighter up and burn the ends of the rope sections on the belay bolts.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : West Side aka West Chimney (5.7)
By: Clint Locks When: Jul 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't know why people are bagging on this route. Sure, there's bird crap from time to time. If you can't handle that, just don't climb it in bird season. I think it's a great route for someone who isn't quite climbing at the 5.10 level, but still wants a nice summit route. The lower and upper portions are really fun and protect well. There's another option if you want to avoid the off-width: traverse right past two dubious pins, which dumps you a bit earlier into Blind Faith.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : Romancing the Stone (5.9)
By: Clint Locks When: Jul 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Matt - I'd have to disagree. I had a blast on it! Really fun, and pretty safe, especially if you place the supplementary gear. Sure, there's some loose rock, but that's all part of the outdoor experience, especially on crags facing that aspect. BTW--a helmet won't do a belayer much good if any of those aforementioned blocks go. Just sayin'. Have fun out there!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : No Direction Home (5.11)
By: Clint Locks When: Jul 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is possible to walk off to the west from the top of this route. As of now, it's quite steep, brushy ,and loose. That said, it's probably just as easy to rap...carefully.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Solaris : Stellar Drifter (5.9)
By: Clint Locks When: Jun 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Most of the first pitch has quite the classic alpine feel (discontinuous, loose, 4th/5th class, lichen-y). The second pitch is on much more solid rock and super-cool, and is one of those pitches you wish was at least twice as long. Its beginning is quite run-out, though it's possible to clip the first bolt of Cosmic Explorer and traverse back into the crack from there at 9+ or so. Rapped C.E., after debating the existence of a walk-off. Apparently, according to previous post, that will work.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Brother Jug (5.10a)
By: Clint Locks When: Apr 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not sure why people are being so hard on this one. Tons of fun, I thought. No, not a 10, as it was originally rated, but interesting and a nice "might as well since we're here" route.
One note--the slings on the juniper were missing as of 4/11, so I created a rap station on the large tree just down ridge above The Bowling Alley.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Tunnel Vision (5.7)
By: Clint Locks When: Apr 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bring a pink and red tri-cam for the tunnel pitch.
After exiting the tunnel, if you're comfortable doing so, consider climbing a bit up the corner before placing gear. This will minimize any swing into the corner if your second comes off in the tunnel.
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Location: CO : Indoor Walls : Boulder Rock Club : The Black One (5.11-)
By: Clint Locks When: Mar 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Evan-
I noticed that. What an amazing thing--to be present at such a remarkable event. Luckily, the alteration has left us with an equally impressive route, which is the norm for this crag. Phil's right. I think the new route is around 11b. Enjoy!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Self Abuse (5.10)
By: Clint Locks When: Feb 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I definitely suggest starting with January Playmate and traversing into the roof from that route.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : January Playmate (5.8)
By: Clint Locks When: Feb 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun. Remember to save 0.75 and 1 Camalots for the anchor if doing the direct finish (thin crack after pulling right around the roof). Gear is sparse after the roof.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Dead Letter Department (5.8)
By: Clint Locks When: Jan 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The description says this is two pitches. It can be done easily on a 60m as one. Ivan's "second pitch" seems to set you up for the Handcracker Direct walk-off above the Pony Express area, which seems to be a categorically bad idea. You can rap with a 60m rope from the aforementioned tree down to the anchors atop the slab finish of Hyperspace Roundup, though make sure to angle your rappel slightly up-ridge, or accessing those is a bit problematic. It's another short rap to the ground.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : PA's Variation (5.8 PG13)
By: Clint Locks When: Jul 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Poor to no pro at the crux, actually. Still the lower hand crack is a blast, and the crux is reasonable if you're solid at the grade.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Cathedral Wall : Tourist Tragedy (5.9)
By: Clint Locks When: Jul 12, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: We found it best to stay on-trail until even with the upper edge of the #2 buttress, then traverse the boulder field to the base. The first pitch begins ~25 feet down from the large off-width crack at the left side of a 25 foot arete. There's pro where you need it, but don't expect an abundance. This is not the case with the rest of the route. The second pitch is a bit confusing after the grubby trees, and The 10a variation has adequate pro, but did not 'gear up' as well as I'd expected fr... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon
By: Clint Locks When: Jul 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beautiful hike in and the Cathedral Spires are AWESOME!
The climb was equally beautiful. You can reach the 1st Bench with a 60 meter, and, if you belay higher up in the chimney (25 ft, +or-) for the 2nd pitch, you can string 2 and 3 together, giving the leader an interesting chimney/5.7 crack to reach the second bench.
After the next chimney pitch, The climb goes vertical, beginning the real deal. Stellar climbing! Up higher, I don't know what the Gillett guide meant by 'sparse pro' on the upp... more >>
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