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Member Since: Jun 26, 2002
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 1,090
Total Points: 557
Last Year: 95
Last 30 Days: 1
11 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Clint Locks been climbing?










Contributions


All 620 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 70 | Page Improvments | Comments 137 | Posts 21 | Stars 300 | Ratings 85
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : ... : Photo
By: Clint Locks When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: To be clear, the blue line in the pic is Morning Thunder. Sleepy Time begins in the same place, but heads up the obvious corner and up the wall to the ledge.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : T2 Direct Finish (5.9 PG13)
By: Clint Locks When: Jun 19, 2014

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Comments: Once on top, wander up the slab (~30 ft?) and locate a new threaded cord anchor. Make a messy rap north, then scramble up the slab until you intersect the Yellow Spur walk-off that leads back down to the Chockstone rappels.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rebuffat's Arete (5.7)
By: Clint Locks When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: Not sure this pitch deserves its own page. It really is just a variation to Rewritten's pitch 5, albeit the preferred one. If we start adding a page to MP for every variation to every climb in Eldo (and beyond), I'm pretty sure the servers will crash and burn in a brilliant fireball of 1s and 0s.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Brother Jug (5.10a)
By: Clint Locks When: Jan 19, 2014

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Comments: Updated anchor for this route. Could still use a second aluminum ring, though.


Location: CO : Indoor Walls : Boulder Rock Club
By: Clint Locks When: Nov 7, 2013

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Comments: I've recently had multiple conversations with people I meet at the BRC who have mentioned the open, genuine atmosphere at the gym. I agree. If you want a place that demonstrates the vibrant spirit of Boulder's climbing community, this is it...and the route setting just keeps being stellar! Hats off to Brent and the crew!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Werner Brothers' Roof (5.9- PG13)
By: Clint Locks When: Aug 31, 2013

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Comments: There's also a super-quick walk-off option that works for everything from "Howard Placebo" to "Peters Out". The walk-off meanders north then west, hugging the cliff, and deposits you right back at your packs. As of 8-31-13, there was no rap station established on the tree Tony mentioned in the route description.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Siberian Khatru (5.8+ PG13)
By: Clint Locks When: Aug 31, 2013

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Comments: Not sure I'd sling that tree, but I state the obvious...as of 8-31-13.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Siberian Khatru (5.8+ PG13)
By: Clint Locks When: Aug 31, 2013

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Comments: There's also a super-quick walk-off option that works for everything from "Howard Placebo" to "Peters Out". The walk-off meanders north then west, hugging the cliff, and deposits you right back at your packs. As of 8-31-13, there was no rap station established on the tree Tony mentioned in the route description.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Peters Out - Roof Variation (5.10)
By: Clint Locks When: Aug 31, 2013

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Comments: Sure seems to me that THIS is the obvious line. The 'variation' should be the escape left, but "are we splitting hairs here?" Haven't done the escape scenario, but the roof is fun stuff.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Peters Out - Roof Variation (5.10)
By: Clint Locks When: Aug 31, 2013

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Comments: There's also a super-quick walk-off option that works for everything from "Howard Placebo" to "Peters Out". The walk-off meanders north then west, hugging the cliff, and deposits you right back at your packs. As of 8-31-13 there was no rap station established on the tree Tony mentioned in the route description.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Dihedral One (5.7)
By: Clint Locks When: Jun 2, 2013

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Comments: At the risk of stating the obvious, there is a lot of loose rock on this pitch. Otherwise, I agree--would be a great first trad lead.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Common Denominator (5.9+)
By: Clint Locks When: Jun 2, 2013

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Comments: Could be a great first trad lead. Super fun!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Curvilinear (5.10a)
By: Clint Locks When: Jun 2, 2013

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Comments: Not the greatest gear in the world. So sparse that my partner decided (wisely?) to climb the dirty crack to the right instead. There was no anchor at all on the tree. As of now, there is a single sling and carabiner that we left to lower. We did not do extensive recon to locate a walk-off. Definitely not worth the effort, in my opinion.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Rhadamanthus (5.10a R)
By: Clint Locks When: Apr 28, 2013

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Comments: Consider Sarah's comments before launching off, but I thought this climb offered quite good protection. Really fun! The final few feet was all loose rock and steep duff. Barely worth noting, though, since that's the norm for all the Kashmir-area pitches.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : The Castle : Throne Room (5.10)
By: Clint Locks When: Sep 25, 2012

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Comments: Be advised that, although it's an astounding position and a great climb, the final few moves of pitch 3 include an awkward mantel ("protected" by an old 1/4 bolt) onto the final summit slab. If you blow it here, it would be very bad.


Location: Mark Roth : 5-23-12 Eldorado Trundle Pa... : Photo
By: Clint Locks When: May 24, 2012

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Comments: Thanks for these pics, you all. Great work up there! The life you saved may have been mine...or yours!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Let it Vee (5.7)
By: Clint Locks When: Apr 23, 2012

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Comments: The infamous tree stump has been removed. Note--the very loose walk-off ledge traverses just above this pitch, so expect some rockfall on a busy day.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : The Playground : Little Lebowski Urban Achie... : ... : Photo
By: Clint Locks When: Mar 29, 2012

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Comments: "He doesn't believe in anything. He's a nihilist."


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Chianti (5.8+)
By: Clint Locks When: Jan 22, 2012

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Comments: Due to traffic on the final pitch, we ended up finishing Chianti via the final pitch of Rocks to Climb Routes To. It's the next crack to the right. Fun pitch (.10b or so) with a spicy start but good climbing...until the day that giant flake at the crux comes flying off. Seems imminent.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Chick on the Side (5.10b/c)
By: Clint Locks When: Oct 23, 2011

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Comments: Had another fling with this one today, then continued with Variation to Mail Ridge (Going Postal?) and finished on the exquisite Handcracker Direct. Levin calls it the Mail Ridge Tower Link-up or something. Really fun!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : T2 (5.10d R)
By: Clint Locks When: Sep 6, 2011

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Comments: As of 9-8-11, there are four pins on the .9 rotten band pitch, though one is a back-up, only a couple of inches above one of the original (?) one. Not confidence-inspiring.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : T2 (5.10d R)
By: Clint Locks When: Sep 6, 2011

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Comments: The Levin guide shows a good way to break up the upper pitches, unless you want to run together the two pitches from the upper ledge, which is reasonable, though rope drag could be an issue if you're not careful. I'm not sold on Dane's assertion that there's "good" gear to be had on that pitch until you pull onto the ledge. For the final 2 pitches, stay true to the strata you begin on, belay at a small tree, and finish it from there.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrut... (5.11b)
By: Clint Locks When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: Happened upon this random route for the first time yesterday. Well bolted for Eldo! Tough start, slabby finish, and lots of fun in-between. Definitely worth a run after topping out on Anthill Direct or any of its neighbors.


Location: CO : 10 Mile Canyon : Mount Royal (near Frisco) : Royal Flush (5.9) : Photo
By: Clint Locks When: Aug 2, 2011

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Comments: It's worth mentioning that the belay for the 5.9 variation is quite a ways around the corner from the 5.10. The difference in difficulty between the two pitches is obvious from the apron. As with many things on this route, follow your nose.


Location: CO : 10 Mile Canyon : Mount Royal (near Frisco) : Royal Flush (5.9)
By: Clint Locks When: Aug 2, 2011

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Comments: It would be nice for someone to bring a lighter up and burn the ends of the rope sections on the belay bolts.


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